Third
Member
The way the military does it is via a Driver Alert switch in the back. It buzzes the *annoying* dash alarm on the LTMV.
LMTV 1078 Camper build concept
- Thread starter Coachgeo
- Start date
The way the military does it is via a Driver Alert switch in the back. It buzzes the *annoying* dash alarm on the LTMV.
Coachgeo
Explorer
with headphones and/or sound mat etc. added to cab- yes... also inside ambo box should be more quiet. will see
Hello COACHGEO,
your idea is sound.
I have both the s250 enclosure and an 8' non cabover ALASKAN camper. I experimented with both in my M923/a2 6x6 cargo truck. we went for the Alaskan, we are posted on this site under 1965 Alaskan in our army truck crazydog. our truck in little higher than an lmtv so the jack type system will work too or do you plan on leaving it in. we remove ours about 4 -5 times a year) also with the s250 it cannot be lowered with alsakan it cam be raised and lowered which with a taller truck is a bonus...eg: we were back in the mountains.... Way back …..and we got into a thicket of trees which damaged the original tarp system on the truck and was a 1.5'taller than the cab. with Alaskan it lowers to the height of the cab and it is tucked in......we don't just visit manicured camp sites with this guy...haha
the s250 was nice but it good for smaller intents. I still have it and I currently use it for parts and maintenance shop for our truck
hope this ;little bit helps and good luck!
your idea is sound.
I have both the s250 enclosure and an 8' non cabover ALASKAN camper. I experimented with both in my M923/a2 6x6 cargo truck. we went for the Alaskan, we are posted on this site under 1965 Alaskan in our army truck crazydog. our truck in little higher than an lmtv so the jack type system will work too or do you plan on leaving it in. we remove ours about 4 -5 times a year) also with the s250 it cannot be lowered with alsakan it cam be raised and lowered which with a taller truck is a bonus...eg: we were back in the mountains.... Way back …..and we got into a thicket of trees which damaged the original tarp system on the truck and was a 1.5'taller than the cab. with Alaskan it lowers to the height of the cab and it is tucked in......we don't just visit manicured camp sites with this guy...haha
the s250 was nice but it good for smaller intents. I still have it and I currently use it for parts and maintenance shop for our truck
hope this ;little bit helps and good luck!
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Coachgeo
Explorer
thanks for reading first half of thread. The concept evolved / Morphed into using an Ambulance box. Nice and strong which helps protect the cab occupents in a roll over as well. Will sit tad lower than cargo cover I hope though my head will be millimeters from ceiling. (Im 5'8" and shrinking... my GF is nearly 1/2 foot shorter)
Coachgeo
Explorer
New update..... she is back to driving on both axles.
Failed to mention we already swapped in an upgraded third member into the front axle (Remember truck is military with AWD and 4x4 ( LMTV M1078) the upgraded third member has a better axle ratio. Not perfect by a long shut but better.... and presently the only other axle ratio available. It came out of an MRAP Caimen.
Will be going to even taller tires (from 46" to 49") to improve ratio even more. More I travel more this will pay for itself by nearly doubling the fuel milage from around 7 to 12 or better. Engine will be in its power band better.
Today after swap of 3rd into new rear axle posted about previously; we finally got her rolling again. Been few hours every Sat. night for a while. Axle is mounted she drives. Rear 3rd has matching ratio to front as well as a Mechanical Locker.
As mentioned previously.... this axle is actually out of a 6x6 AWD truck. Using this axle cause it moves the drive shaft from a somewhat steep angle up to almost parallel to chassis. Military did the same design swap around 2007? in all their AWD- LMTV's as well. ..... Anyway... this particular axle normally has another axle behind it. It is the first axle in 6x6 rear pair. The big ol' chunk above attaches to axle pumpkin... and it houses a differential between the two axle outputs. Like any differential it will send power to the unit with the most slip..... well with no second axle attached.... it will mechanically feel like that missing axle is in massive slip.... so it will send all power to the output for the ahhh.... missing axle........ OOPS... now one has no power to existing rear axle..... NO problem though... this rear axle has a locker on that differential that normally sat between the two rear 6x6 axle. Just gotta lock that locker permanent.... Which we did.... we mechanically activated the air solenoid that normally locks it.
An air solenoid has a piston in it that holds the locker .... locked. We decided to hold that piston in place by taking an extra air fitting drilled and tapped then run piece of all-thread rod into the solenoid thru its original air fitting ... along with a lock nut. Turned in the all thread rod to push the piston home. Will get updated though. Before making final decision on what will hold it home permanent am going to check with Meritor to see if they will clue me in on make up of piston (Cast hollow or solid milled, steel or aluminum, etc.)
Drive shaft shortened by about 2 inch if I recall right. Rebalanced in process.... though it was already a new shaft (NOT.... NOS but brand newly constructed)
Still got little more to do....
. Airline brackets for all the airlines
. Sway bar brackets as well as make up some bushings for sway bar affix to axle. (nylon rod stock milled out is the plan). Have new sway bar bushings for other points.
. Breather line- This one has slightly different location for axle breather so need to make new line for that.
It seems to never stop lol.... but then again all these little things would be same no matter how did this install.. Could have done this by flipping my orginal 4x4 axle housing and then installing the 6x6 3rd into that... or modify an all New axle like done here. More on the modifications we did are in previous post in this thread. A flipped 4x4 axle housing still think would be more time consuming cause would have to make a completely new spring perch pads as well as all the other tid bits having to do to this one as well.. Anway.... some of the little things still do go....
. Making up bracket and hooking up the brake load adjuster is another task to do as well.
. Final shim to go under leaf springs to rotate axle to match axle angle to tranny output angle (seeking perfect parallel between two). Right now we are little over 1-ish degree off. This will be made after the Ambo box is installed and she sits closer to normal weight thus normal squashing of the suspension. Will then see where we are and how much shim to make.
Failed to mention we already swapped in an upgraded third member into the front axle (Remember truck is military with AWD and 4x4 ( LMTV M1078) the upgraded third member has a better axle ratio. Not perfect by a long shut but better.... and presently the only other axle ratio available. It came out of an MRAP Caimen.
Will be going to even taller tires (from 46" to 49") to improve ratio even more. More I travel more this will pay for itself by nearly doubling the fuel milage from around 7 to 12 or better. Engine will be in its power band better.
Today after swap of 3rd into new rear axle posted about previously; we finally got her rolling again. Been few hours every Sat. night for a while. Axle is mounted she drives. Rear 3rd has matching ratio to front as well as a Mechanical Locker.
As mentioned previously.... this axle is actually out of a 6x6 AWD truck. Using this axle cause it moves the drive shaft from a somewhat steep angle up to almost parallel to chassis. Military did the same design swap around 2007? in all their AWD- LMTV's as well. ..... Anyway... this particular axle normally has another axle behind it. It is the first axle in 6x6 rear pair. The big ol' chunk above attaches to axle pumpkin... and it houses a differential between the two axle outputs. Like any differential it will send power to the unit with the most slip..... well with no second axle attached.... it will mechanically feel like that missing axle is in massive slip.... so it will send all power to the output for the ahhh.... missing axle........ OOPS... now one has no power to existing rear axle..... NO problem though... this rear axle has a locker on that differential that normally sat between the two rear 6x6 axle. Just gotta lock that locker permanent.... Which we did.... we mechanically activated the air solenoid that normally locks it.
An air solenoid has a piston in it that holds the locker .... locked. We decided to hold that piston in place by taking an extra air fitting drilled and tapped then run piece of all-thread rod into the solenoid thru its original air fitting ... along with a lock nut. Turned in the all thread rod to push the piston home. Will get updated though. Before making final decision on what will hold it home permanent am going to check with Meritor to see if they will clue me in on make up of piston (Cast hollow or solid milled, steel or aluminum, etc.)
Drive shaft shortened by about 2 inch if I recall right. Rebalanced in process.... though it was already a new shaft (NOT.... NOS but brand newly constructed)
Still got little more to do....
. Airline brackets for all the airlines
. Sway bar brackets as well as make up some bushings for sway bar affix to axle. (nylon rod stock milled out is the plan). Have new sway bar bushings for other points.
. Breather line- This one has slightly different location for axle breather so need to make new line for that.
It seems to never stop lol.... but then again all these little things would be same no matter how did this install.. Could have done this by flipping my orginal 4x4 axle housing and then installing the 6x6 3rd into that... or modify an all New axle like done here. More on the modifications we did are in previous post in this thread. A flipped 4x4 axle housing still think would be more time consuming cause would have to make a completely new spring perch pads as well as all the other tid bits having to do to this one as well.. Anway.... some of the little things still do go....
. Making up bracket and hooking up the brake load adjuster is another task to do as well.
. Final shim to go under leaf springs to rotate axle to match axle angle to tranny output angle (seeking perfect parallel between two). Right now we are little over 1-ish degree off. This will be made after the Ambo box is installed and she sits closer to normal weight thus normal squashing of the suspension. Will then see where we are and how much shim to make.
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crazyjane
Observer
Should be easy to draw 12v power in cab area as there are 12 and 24v socket built into power distribution panel inside fuse area. The 2 silver circles, along with the black circle(plug) are 24v,12v and the ground. They're on right side of this picture
Grenadiers
Adventurer
I hope your project doesn't out live you! Mpg is a relative thing. You really get what you pay for. Heavy military vehicles are heavy military vehicles! As much as we love our Saurer 6dm, it's 4 mpg on the highway. 29000 pounds of Swiss/Mercedes engineering, 12L 320hp inline six is thirsty! We just drove 1350 miles from NW Wisconsin to Panama City Beach to visit the mother in law, humping down the highway at 57mph. The engine is turning 2200 and at 50, more like 1700. That is the secret, don't be in a hurry! But this trip we had to. Next month it's the Yucatán for three months. Less driving, and slower.
olly hondro
mad scientist
I, also, do not care about the cost of diesel. The lane changing technique of "blink-blink-go" without challenge = priceless 
Coachgeo
Explorer
got a bunch of things on black friday sale.... cheap frills you might say.... and a few neccissaries.....
arm rest- door side and Inside .... along with a pad for door side
camper stove and kitchen ware - Since recently got an unplanned vintage camper oven and cook top w/range hood (LP) for awesome price from a neighbor surprisingly.. (not one purchased but close, price was 1/4 of this) . Will set up the vintage portable unit I shown previously for outside use. Since going vintage cabin-ish look inside anyway.... to go with that got a coleman camper dinner set red enameled. also for a sink got a vintage dish pot that can be put away to maintain max counter space. For faucet will tuck it right up to the wall..... this one has pull out nozzle on a hose. I might pick up a cheap 110v inline water heater..... to use when plugged into shore power if I run across one. I have an LP one "used" from a camper for when boondocking.
truck tire stuff... and OOPs...... New tires..... 5 total for a SWEET deal (ok ... 3 {one used with tits and 2 new chinese tires} but hey... I got run flats and they will stay on back and as spare ( until I've got to rotate them soo.. half the time? lol) and two are new XZL DOT approved for the front (half the time). Goal is for these 3" taller tires to give me a final gear ratio that the engine really likes better.
while I've got ctis (though not working at the moment.. a detail for later) I came across this remote tire gauge arrangement for a good price to do in cab check of tire pressures and temps. course Now I realize it does not go to high enough pressure and now I need a 6 tire unit cause I just got a trailer at a great price.... though I will do a ton to make it lighter (haha.... pardon the pun) below type.. though this one has no bed (thus why good cost) but no matter cause my bed will go on it. YEAH... I got it cancled before shipped. NOw to find a 6 tire unit with high enough pressure. (update: scratch that..... price for 6 at truck pressures is 5x the price....... NEVA MIND)
arm rest- door side and Inside .... along with a pad for door side
camper stove and kitchen ware - Since recently got an unplanned vintage camper oven and cook top w/range hood (LP) for awesome price from a neighbor surprisingly.. (not one purchased but close, price was 1/4 of this) . Will set up the vintage portable unit I shown previously for outside use. Since going vintage cabin-ish look inside anyway.... to go with that got a coleman camper dinner set red enameled. also for a sink got a vintage dish pot that can be put away to maintain max counter space. For faucet will tuck it right up to the wall..... this one has pull out nozzle on a hose. I might pick up a cheap 110v inline water heater..... to use when plugged into shore power if I run across one. I have an LP one "used" from a camper for when boondocking.
truck tire stuff... and OOPs...... New tires..... 5 total for a SWEET deal (ok ... 3 {one used with tits and 2 new chinese tires} but hey... I got run flats and they will stay on back and as spare ( until I've got to rotate them soo.. half the time? lol) and two are new XZL DOT approved for the front (half the time). Goal is for these 3" taller tires to give me a final gear ratio that the engine really likes better.
while I've got ctis (though not working at the moment.. a detail for later) I came across this remote tire gauge arrangement for a good price to do in cab check of tire pressures and temps. course Now I realize it does not go to high enough pressure and now I need a 6 tire unit cause I just got a trailer at a great price.... though I will do a ton to make it lighter (haha.... pardon the pun) below type.. though this one has no bed (thus why good cost) but no matter cause my bed will go on it. YEAH... I got it cancled before shipped. NOw to find a 6 tire unit with high enough pressure. (update: scratch that..... price for 6 at truck pressures is 5x the price....... NEVA MIND)
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Coachgeo
Explorer
Did a pretty global search but am sure I missed awesome threads on this.... if you happen to know of one..... pass on link..
ok.... I want to make myself some CTIS protectors .... closest cousin to my design idea for these would be Rock Rings.. or Bead Protectors orrr one of those various names they call them?
My question is for anyone that has used rock rings......
> any issues with retaining heat in the hubs or tires more after adding the rings? Any chance it actually helped?
> what about getting mud into and out of the rings?
Open to other thoughts.
ok.... I want to make myself some CTIS protectors .... closest cousin to my design idea for these would be Rock Rings.. or Bead Protectors orrr one of those various names they call them?
My question is for anyone that has used rock rings......
> any issues with retaining heat in the hubs or tires more after adding the rings? Any chance it actually helped?
> what about getting mud into and out of the rings?
Open to other thoughts.
Coachgeo
Explorer
I see I missed posting in here that over Christmas Break got some of the floor Rusty metal replaced..... lots of hour$ into it and unfortunatly while leaving cab in the shop tilted up over night...... the windshield decide to start slipping out.. grrrr
Floor pan is Galvanized... not finished yet. Seam Sealer on all joints between it and braces below floor. Hollow braces below floor hit with rust convert primer and truck bed liner before putting floor in place. It will be rosebud welded into place
Floor pan is Galvanized... not finished yet. Seam Sealer on all joints between it and braces below floor. Hollow braces below floor hit with rust convert primer and truck bed liner before putting floor in place. It will be rosebud welded into place
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Coachgeo
Explorer
now that is an interesting idea
