Load D or E tires for expedition M101A1 trailer

[The Adam Blaster]

Now, I could see that the E-rate might be a bit more resistant to abuse if the argument is that the sidewalls are stronger, because they have to be to support the additional weight that the E-rated tire is designed to handle.

The cords and belts that make up a 10-ply are either thicker, or packed more densely together, or are more numerous, or all of the above. The sidewalls can also be thicker.
There is simply more material present that a foreign object has to push through to get to the inside of the tire and cause a failure.

 

[The Adam Blaster]

I'd figure out the expected gross weight of the trailer and buy tires to suit that based on their load rating, with a good safety margin. In other words, if the sidewall says max 40psi @ 1200lbs and you expect the gross trailer weight to be 2200lbs, that wouldn't be a good tire choice IMO.

I would personally prefer a larger margin of safety.
In your scenario, I would find a tire that had a higher load capacity.
RV manufacturers are somewhat notorious for not accurately citing the true weight of a trailer, and also for putting barely adequate tires on their trailers from the factory. Do not use these companies as a yardstick.

 

[Antichrist]

I would personally prefer a larger margin of safety.
In your scenario, I would find a tire that had a higher load capacity.

Yes, that's why I said it wouldn't be a good choice.
I edited my post to remove the contraction.

 

[nat]

I have nothing to add regardinig tires, but I do think brakes are a good idea. I have surge brakes on my M101A2 and really like them.

 

[Deleted member 9101]

I have nothing to add regardinig tires, but I do think brakes are a good idea. I have surge brakes on my M101A2 and really like them.

I second that. Not that my truck has any trouble stopping my trailer... but I do like the extra security of having all six tires stopping me.

 

[The Adam Blaster]

Yes, that's why I said it wouldn't be a good choice.
I edited my post to remove the contraction.

I was agreeing with you without saying "I agree with you."
:elkgrin:

 

[JPK]

With a full size truck and an M101 size trailer, even loaded, the issue to me is not brake vs. no brake stopping distance, but trailer brakes preventing the trailer from coming around and jack-knifing, whether the trailer is loaded or not.

FYI, while I like surge breaks and suggested them in an earlier post, those who drag trailers in the snow and ice report the combination of slick roads and surge breaks can be worse than no breaks. Apparently the surge breaks do not provide adequate modulation, cause the trailer tires to lock up on ice or slick snow leading to the trailer wanting to come around the tow vehiccle.

With electric breaks and a controler you provide the modulation.

JPK

 

[Corbet]

If your going through the trouble of swapping out the axle you might as well add the brakes. That being said for the usage you have planned I don't know if I'd want to add the cost either. My M101a1 is still in stock form. I've never thought I needed brakes on it even with 3000lbs of wood loaded in it. But I'm sure there will come a day when I do.