jfarsang
Adventurer
Bill Beers said:Personally,
I prefer 1, 3 ,2, 4.
Ditto.
Tires and rear locker are a great combination.
Winch and front lockers come after the rear locker on my vehicles.
Bill Beers said:Personally,
I prefer 1, 3 ,2, 4.
expeditionswest said:When venturing into the unknown (i.e., not a day trip), always opt for a winch before a locker
That one comes right from the school of hard knocks. :REOutCampFire03:
TeriAnn said:Mr Scott, sir,
I'd like to respectfully amend your blanket statement as follows:
0. Experience driving your unmodified stock rig to learn it limits and capabilities. Too many people gear up right away with what is currently fashionable not knowing if the new gear will help or hinder. Get to know thy rig intimately. THEN and only THEN decide if you need to gear up beyond stock and know which vehicle parameters you wish to expand before spending any money on the gear de jour.
1. Tires (LT tires of appropriate diameter, tread design and construction.)
1.1 On board air so you can air up at the end of the trail or as needed then lots of behind the wheel time learning what the tyres do to your vehicle's limits at different pressures in different conditions on different materials. Sometimes airing down is better than having a locker and road inflated tyres.
2. Winch
2.1 go out and purposefully get stuck in different situations just to learn recovery skills. Learn what you winch can and can not do for you. Sometimes it is best to winch yourself over something you might be able to get through with lockers just to prevent a high probability of vehicle damage or undue damage to a delicate ecosystem.
3. Rear Locking Differential (Driver Selectable)
3.1 Go out and spend a lot of time driving those areas where you just could barely make it with an open diff and those that you could not quite make it. Try each open diffed then locked to learn what the locker can do for you and how an open diff can sometimes chew up the trail.
Beware a locked diff can become a crutch that masks poor driving skills. gain the skills before using a locker.
4. Front Locking Differential (Driver Selectable)
4.1 Go out and spend a lot of time driving those areas where you just could barely make it with an open front diff and those that you could not quite make it. Try each open diffed then locked to learn what the locker can do for you. And never forget a locked diff can be VERY hard on steering components, especially if you like to work the front wheels in the soft stuff.
And never forget, gear does not make up for lack of driving experience. Know thy rig and how to guide it through obstacles as damage free as possible. Any poser can spend lots of money for flashy gear and hang it on their mall terrain vehicle.
James86004 said:I agree - it took me a while to guess that CDL stood for Center Diff Lock, and TC was Traction Control. Sometimes it is like solving a Sudoku puzzle trying to figure them out.
And to me, P38 is an airplane, not a Range Rover.
TTFN,
James
expeditionswest said:When venturing into the unknown (i.e., not a day trip), always opt for a winch before a locker![]()
michaels said:traction control blows most of the time, but can help in some situations.
expeditionswest said:Another way to look at this is how the engineers specify the functional requirements for driver selectable lockers
Toyota E-Locker: Rear first, then Front. Front cannot be operated independently of the rear.
Mercedes G-Wagen: Center, then Rear, then Front. Front cannot be operated independently of the rear.
Jeep Rubicon: Center (low range), then Rear, then Front. Front cannot be operated independantly of the rear.
ARB Wiring Harness: Rear first, then Front. Front cannot be operated independently of the rear.
In all cases above, rear can be operated independent of the front, not vice-versa (without modification)
The best thing for the D2 is to install a CDL and disable the TC when off-road. D2 owners will tell you this is a night and day difference.
I ran stock axles with a Truetrac up front for some time. In the end, I broke 4 stock CV, 2 AEU2522 CV, and two inner shafts before going "HD".
Yes. Many people run TrueTracs in the F/R of the DII, as combined with the traction control the performance is quite impressive on dry, loose, rocky surfaces and on most hill climbs. But this assumes that the traction control is working (which on my 2001 often did not) and that you are not on icy, snowy, cambered or muddy terrain.
This does not mean that a TrueTrac is not a great diff., just not better than a selectable locker.
cdl IS a night and day difference. traction control blows most of the time, but can help in some situations.
Almost all of the local trails I run have a granite base. Even on wet granite I havnt noticed much traction loss as long as a tire is touching. The surface of the rocks tends to be gritty and clean, not smooth, which is excellent for traction.
Thanks. Center differential lock is one of those mysterious terms I have yet to fully understand nor am I sure I even want to. It doesn't impact leafer pilots. The transfer case is in two wheel drive or four wheel drive, high range or low range and that's complicated enough for me.
If anything like the Toyota's it will lock the F and R together making an even 50/50 power split.
haha. well when you put your truck into 4-wheel, the center diff is automatically locked. any part time four wheel drive is this way.
I have to say I quite like ETC (electronic traction control) as its better than nothing in most situations I come across, the one exception being deep sand where it is a positive hindrance but I can't see why you would want to permanently disable it, switchable yes.
seashore said:My airplane (p-38 range rover) with traction control is great in snow, and other slick situations. Would not venture past modest trails in it.