wreckdiver1321
Overlander
Yay, now I get to spend another $73. My oil pressure sending unit went out.
"Lola" - WreckDiver1321's 2005 Frontier CC/SB Nismo Build and Adventure Thread
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wreckdiver1321
Overlander
Nisstec Adjustable Coilover and Nisstec Adjustable Shackle Installation
Got some shiny parts at my doorstep yesterday morning! So since I didn't have to work or go to school, I called up my future brother in law and procured the use of his large, heated shop.
I gotta say, as much hubbub as I have heard about the complexity of the F-Alpha suspension, geometry, etc., I was expecting a fair degree of difficulty. I was completely wrong. This was literally the easiest suspension install I have ever done. I installed the new parts, by myself, in under three hours using only basic tools, a floor jack, and one jackstand. Before I started, I took a before picture and took measurements.
Center of hub to wheel arch measurements, pre-lift
FRONT (left and right): 19 1/2"
REAR (left and right): 20 5/8"
Installing aftermarket factory length coilovers is a ridiculously easy job.
1. Jack up the truck and place jackstand
2. Remove tire
3. Undo the three 14mm nuts holding the top of the strut on
4. Use a screwdriver as an ice pick to remove the snow and ice from the lower control arm
5. If the weather is warm, skip step 4
6. Remove the lower shock nut (19mm) and then pull out the bolt (also 19mm)
7. Remove factory strut assembly
8. Remove new coilovers from box
9. Use shop rag to mop up drool from viewing said coilovers
10. Slide new coilovers in, aligning the studs with the holes in the coil bucket
11. Finger tighten new 14mm nuts
12. Apply downward pressure to upper control arm
13. Slip lower shock mount into position and insert lower shock bolt
14. Finger tighten lower shock mount bolt
15. Tighten upper 14mm nuts
16. Tighten lower 19mm bolt
17. Double check that bolts are tightened (ask me why this step is important)
18. Reinstall tire
19. Remove jackstand
20. Quickly release pressure in the floor jack, causing truck to fall back to the ground
21. Repeat steps 1-20 on the other side.
22. Adjust front coilovers to desired height + 1/2" using included spanner wrenches. There is a lot of pressure on the adjustable perch, so it's a good idea to use a cheater pipe.
Next thing I did was back the truck out, turn it around, and back it into the shop. I engaged 4WD so when the transmission was in park, it would hold the front wheels stationary. I then chocked the front wheels and proceeded to place the floor jack under rear differential. I set my jackstand to its highest setting and lifted the truck until I could place the stand under the hitch receiver. I then lowered the truck onto the jackstand, but didn't allow the rear tires to reach the ground. Since I'm only installing shackles, this next part is pretty easy.
1. Remove one tire
2. Remove factory shackle nuts (19mm I think)
3. Use a hammer to tap out the old shackle assembly. After the shackle is removed, the spring will come back up and meet the frame.
4. Get really annoyed when the old shackle pulls some old bushings out with it, along with the factory install grease, which gets on EVERYTHING!
5. You need to make more room between the frame and the spring eye. When doing this job by yourself, the easiest way to do this is by using the factory scissor jack! Place the jack between the spring and the frame and lift.
6. When there is enough space, install the new shackle and tighten the bolts (18mm bolt and 18mm nut)
7. Reinstall tire
8. Repeat on the other side.
Now, you're not quite done yet. Like all new suspension kits, the springs will need an opportunity to settle (hence the extre 1/2" of height added). Take the truck out for a drive and hit every pothole on the road. About five minutes with a lot of suspension movement should do it (potholes, speedbumps, rocks, etc.). Now drive back into the garage/driveway/carport and re-measure. Odds are the springs will have settled, usually between 1/2"-3/4". If the numbers aren't quite what you want, adjust the coilovers again. Go out for another drive whether you adjusted a second time or not. This time drive for 10-15 minutes on aforementioned potholed road. Now measure once more. If the numbers have changed, adjust accordingly. Repeat this procedure until the numbers remain static. Now you're done. Call and make an appointment to get the truck aligned. Make sure to give your alignment shop these instructions: http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f26/alignment-instructions-give-your-tech-via-brutal-nismo4x-134009/
Now take a few pictures and have a few beers. :sombrero:
Center of hub to wheel arch measurements, post-lift
FRONT (left and right): 21 7/16" - 1 15/16" of lift (backed off 1/16" from 2" to prevent shock topping out. Yes, it really does make a difference.)
REAR (left and right): 22 7/8" - 2 1/4" of lift
Got some shiny parts at my doorstep yesterday morning! So since I didn't have to work or go to school, I called up my future brother in law and procured the use of his large, heated shop.
I gotta say, as much hubbub as I have heard about the complexity of the F-Alpha suspension, geometry, etc., I was expecting a fair degree of difficulty. I was completely wrong. This was literally the easiest suspension install I have ever done. I installed the new parts, by myself, in under three hours using only basic tools, a floor jack, and one jackstand. Before I started, I took a before picture and took measurements.
Center of hub to wheel arch measurements, pre-lift
FRONT (left and right): 19 1/2"
REAR (left and right): 20 5/8"
Installing aftermarket factory length coilovers is a ridiculously easy job.
1. Jack up the truck and place jackstand
2. Remove tire
3. Undo the three 14mm nuts holding the top of the strut on
4. Use a screwdriver as an ice pick to remove the snow and ice from the lower control arm
5. If the weather is warm, skip step 4
6. Remove the lower shock nut (19mm) and then pull out the bolt (also 19mm)
7. Remove factory strut assembly
8. Remove new coilovers from box
9. Use shop rag to mop up drool from viewing said coilovers
10. Slide new coilovers in, aligning the studs with the holes in the coil bucket
11. Finger tighten new 14mm nuts
12. Apply downward pressure to upper control arm
13. Slip lower shock mount into position and insert lower shock bolt
14. Finger tighten lower shock mount bolt
15. Tighten upper 14mm nuts
16. Tighten lower 19mm bolt
17. Double check that bolts are tightened (ask me why this step is important
)18. Reinstall tire
19. Remove jackstand
20. Quickly release pressure in the floor jack, causing truck to fall back to the ground
21. Repeat steps 1-20 on the other side.
22. Adjust front coilovers to desired height + 1/2" using included spanner wrenches. There is a lot of pressure on the adjustable perch, so it's a good idea to use a cheater pipe.
Next thing I did was back the truck out, turn it around, and back it into the shop. I engaged 4WD so when the transmission was in park, it would hold the front wheels stationary. I then chocked the front wheels and proceeded to place the floor jack under rear differential. I set my jackstand to its highest setting and lifted the truck until I could place the stand under the hitch receiver. I then lowered the truck onto the jackstand, but didn't allow the rear tires to reach the ground. Since I'm only installing shackles, this next part is pretty easy.
1. Remove one tire
2. Remove factory shackle nuts (19mm I think)
3. Use a hammer to tap out the old shackle assembly. After the shackle is removed, the spring will come back up and meet the frame.
4. Get really annoyed when the old shackle pulls some old bushings out with it, along with the factory install grease, which gets on EVERYTHING!
5. You need to make more room between the frame and the spring eye. When doing this job by yourself, the easiest way to do this is by using the factory scissor jack! Place the jack between the spring and the frame and lift.
6. When there is enough space, install the new shackle and tighten the bolts (18mm bolt and 18mm nut)
7. Reinstall tire
8. Repeat on the other side.
Now, you're not quite done yet. Like all new suspension kits, the springs will need an opportunity to settle (hence the extre 1/2" of height added). Take the truck out for a drive and hit every pothole on the road. About five minutes with a lot of suspension movement should do it (potholes, speedbumps, rocks, etc.). Now drive back into the garage/driveway/carport and re-measure. Odds are the springs will have settled, usually between 1/2"-3/4". If the numbers aren't quite what you want, adjust the coilovers again. Go out for another drive whether you adjusted a second time or not. This time drive for 10-15 minutes on aforementioned potholed road. Now measure once more. If the numbers have changed, adjust accordingly. Repeat this procedure until the numbers remain static. Now you're done. Call and make an appointment to get the truck aligned. Make sure to give your alignment shop these instructions: http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f26/alignment-instructions-give-your-tech-via-brutal-nismo4x-134009/
Now take a few pictures and have a few beers. :sombrero:
Center of hub to wheel arch measurements, post-lift
FRONT (left and right): 21 7/16" - 1 15/16" of lift (backed off 1/16" from 2" to prevent shock topping out. Yes, it really does make a difference.)
REAR (left and right): 22 7/8" - 2 1/4" of lift
Last edited:
wreckdiver1321
Overlander
Review - Nisstec Adjustable Coilovers
The new suspension has now been installed and on the truck for a day and a half. I can definitely say that I am very, very impressed with this setup. The shocks feel awesome. Very smooth, they soak up the bumps extremely well. Even at nearly 2" of lift, I am getting no shock top out whatsoever. And I've been trying! They are very quiet and very comfortable. Bilstein makes a quality product, with a very nice fit and finish. These are definitely better than my worn out factory setup ever was. It's the same story with the springs. Yes, they are stiffer than the factory Nismo coils, but in a good way. The ride is a bit bouncier, but it's more solid now. In the turns, I don't even notice the lack of a front sway bar. Under hard braking, the nose doesn't dive at all. Although they are stiffer, they are definitely smoother. The whole setup seems to iron out the road very nicely. I'm also impressed by how quiet everything is. It feels very, very good.
I only have one gripe with this setup: it took me forever to get the springs to settle at the right height. After driving around yesterday, the springs settled back down to 1.5" overnight. I returned to the shop today and adjusted them again. It took three test drives and adjustments for the driver's side to settle and maintain the correct height. The passenger's side, on the other hand, required ten adjustments. Luckily, the adjustments can be done without removing the tire, but it's still a bear to adjust everything. Mostly, I think the trouble I had can be attributed to one coilover being set up at Nisstec differently to the other. I suspect the driver side coilover had more preload on it out of the box than the passenger side assembly. Other than this little issue, I am completely happy with this setup!
The new suspension has now been installed and on the truck for a day and a half. I can definitely say that I am very, very impressed with this setup. The shocks feel awesome. Very smooth, they soak up the bumps extremely well. Even at nearly 2" of lift, I am getting no shock top out whatsoever. And I've been trying! They are very quiet and very comfortable. Bilstein makes a quality product, with a very nice fit and finish. These are definitely better than my worn out factory setup ever was. It's the same story with the springs. Yes, they are stiffer than the factory Nismo coils, but in a good way. The ride is a bit bouncier, but it's more solid now. In the turns, I don't even notice the lack of a front sway bar. Under hard braking, the nose doesn't dive at all. Although they are stiffer, they are definitely smoother. The whole setup seems to iron out the road very nicely. I'm also impressed by how quiet everything is. It feels very, very good.
I only have one gripe with this setup: it took me forever to get the springs to settle at the right height. After driving around yesterday, the springs settled back down to 1.5" overnight. I returned to the shop today and adjusted them again. It took three test drives and adjustments for the driver's side to settle and maintain the correct height. The passenger's side, on the other hand, required ten adjustments. Luckily, the adjustments can be done without removing the tire, but it's still a bear to adjust everything. Mostly, I think the trouble I had can be attributed to one coilover being set up at Nisstec differently to the other. I suspect the driver side coilover had more preload on it out of the box than the passenger side assembly. Other than this little issue, I am completely happy with this setup!
iron dingo
Observer
:luxhello:
awesome. looks like a fully successful lift. Truck looks great.
awesome. looks like a fully successful lift. Truck looks great.
wreckdiver1321
Overlander
Haha I can imagine I have a few more options than you guys do.
Seeing as you are the Vice-President of the itchy trigger finger tire brigade how do you like the lift and your current sized tires? (Stioc you are President
Haha that I am. Funny you should mention...
the current stance is okay, and I'll be keeping these tires for quite a while yet. I do have a feeling I'll be switching to a 255 or 285 once these are done though. If I decide on 285s, I'll stick with the General AT2s. They are a great tire that has served me very well. If I go for 255s, I'll move to the ST Maxx. Surprisingly, both are a very similar weight, so I think mpgs will be roughly the same either way, and both aren't that much heavier than my 265s. But no, my trigger finger isn't very itchy at the moment.
Thanks man! I'm very happy with the outcome!
wreckdiver1321
Overlander
Nisstec Coilovers Update
I sought out the most potholed road in town today to see if I could get the shocks to top out and see how often it happened and how bad it was. Well, here's the thing...
In most situations where the shock would top out, there has to be a very sudden and rather large drop off in the road, and you have to be going fast enough. Where I worry about this the most is forest service, logging, and fire roads. I know firsthand that they can be very jarring when the holes appear in the road. The harsher bumps are caused by a sudden drop and a sudden rise in the road. Most commonly, we'll see this sort of thing in potholes. However, a pothole is usually just that - a hole. There will be a sudden dip followed by a sudden rise. This is the way most of the worst bumps on forest service roads are. When you hit a pothole, usually it's very jarring because the tire launches off the edge of the hole, then smacks into the lip on the other side. This action is what makes the ride harsh. The only way I can experience what I think might be the shock topping out is to hit a pothole at a fast pace - a move which would deliver a jarring ride anyway.
Which brings me to this: I have no idea if I'm topping out the shock or not. The ride feels awesome in every condition I've put the truck through. When there are large potholes and I hit them at speed, it feels just like it did before the lift. In a trail situation, this is a non-issue, as I will be going too slow over the obstacles large enough for shock top out for this to actually matter. On the road and in town, it never happens. Going fast on the potholed road it feels just like I'm going fast on a potholed road.
In short: I am very happy with the way this setup feels, and I have zero worries about the performance of my new suspension.
I sought out the most potholed road in town today to see if I could get the shocks to top out and see how often it happened and how bad it was. Well, here's the thing...
In most situations where the shock would top out, there has to be a very sudden and rather large drop off in the road, and you have to be going fast enough. Where I worry about this the most is forest service, logging, and fire roads. I know firsthand that they can be very jarring when the holes appear in the road. The harsher bumps are caused by a sudden drop and a sudden rise in the road. Most commonly, we'll see this sort of thing in potholes. However, a pothole is usually just that - a hole. There will be a sudden dip followed by a sudden rise. This is the way most of the worst bumps on forest service roads are. When you hit a pothole, usually it's very jarring because the tire launches off the edge of the hole, then smacks into the lip on the other side. This action is what makes the ride harsh. The only way I can experience what I think might be the shock topping out is to hit a pothole at a fast pace - a move which would deliver a jarring ride anyway.
Which brings me to this: I have no idea if I'm topping out the shock or not. The ride feels awesome in every condition I've put the truck through. When there are large potholes and I hit them at speed, it feels just like it did before the lift. In a trail situation, this is a non-issue, as I will be going too slow over the obstacles large enough for shock top out for this to actually matter. On the road and in town, it never happens. Going fast on the potholed road it feels just like I'm going fast on a potholed road.
In short: I am very happy with the way this setup feels, and I have zero worries about the performance of my new suspension.
stioc
Expedition Leader
Haha, mortonm funny you mention that...I was thinking about 255/85/16 and 285/75/16s the other day. The 285s look nicer IMHO but the 255s give that little more height. I started thinking of these sizes after reading the Damaged by the Dusy trail report. So I say go big or go home!
Lola's coming along nicely and x2 on being jealous you guys have better suspension options than us with the run of the mill KYB struts, yuck.
Lola's coming along nicely and x2 on being jealous you guys have better suspension options than us with the run of the mill KYB struts, yuck.
wreckdiver1321
Overlander
Haha, mortonm funny you mention that...I was thinking about 255/85/16 and 285/75/16s the other day. The 285s look nicer IMHO but the 255s give that little more height. I started thinking of these sizes after reading the Damaged by the Dusy trail report. So I say go big or go home!
Lola's coming along nicely and x2 on being jealous you guys have better suspension options than us with the run of the mill KYB struts, yuck.
Haha oh god no....
Thanks stioc! Haha I can imagine it's a little better for us, but not much. Keeping it purposeful, effective, and inexpensive is rather difficult. Spacers, OME, or coilovers. Coilovers can get real expensive real fast.
Thanks Dmski, it's an awesome setup. Perfect for overland travel. Nice and smooth but robust and heavy duty. Not too overly expensive either.
I didn't take the opportunity to do any rust prevention, but that's because it's not something I really worry about living in Montana. No salt on the roads up here. The factory powdercoat/paint seems to be holding up extremely well, and I haven't encountered a single seized bolt. If it starts to deteriorate, then I'll address it, but it looks rock solid right now.
Dmski
Adventurer
One other question for you, did you use an add a leaf with the adjustable shackle or just the adjustable shackle to the stock leaf pack. I like the front setup and will likely be doing something very similar but my front shocks are alright. It's the rear that is actually hitting the bump stops way to frequently recently so I'm looking into a suspension refresh. I'm likely going to do the OME Dakar leaf pack in the rear with nisstec coils up front very similar to yours but thought I'd see if you tried to fix the rear with an alternate solution.
wreckdiver1321
Overlander
I'm actually just running the factory leaf pack for now with an adjustable shackle. Later I will be going to the OME pack. The only reason I didn't right away is because I don't have the spare cash laying around, so the shackles were a way to temporarily level the truck. I'll be getting the MD OME leafs with the greaseable shackles and Bilstein 5125s. OME is a great way to go. I love their stuff. Very well made, and the ride is good.
For you, I'd actually split it up the opposite way I did. Get the rear setup and run a spacer up front for a while. You can get the OME leafs, shackles, and Bilstein shocks from Nisstec for $655. Then I'd get the PRG spacers (1.5" or 2") for $120-150 (Nisstec doesn't sell a regular spacer for these things.). Then later on I think the Nisstec coilovers are a great way to go for the price. For a little bit more you could go with the Radflos, but I wanted a replaceable shock instead of a rebuildable one.
Dmski
Adventurer
Great idea! I like the idea of just beefing up the rear now, and dealing with the front later. I'll give Nisstec a call and see what they have to say but I'm thinking that may be the way to go. I'm a big fan of both OME and Bilstein, so it really will come down to what fits the budget in the end, but like you said, the rebuild-able front coils from Nisstec sound perfect for a long lasting solution. Keep up the build and pictures!