Long time lurker, new D1 owner

[brianf408]

Well, after hanging around here for almost two years and looking at numerous vehicles, I finally pulled the trigger on a Disco. I had a Pathfinder for about a year, it was a great rig, but just didn't have the same feel and personality as a Rover.

96 D1 SE7, 110k, in pretty decent mechanical shape but the interior and body are a little rough. Perfect for a project 2nd vehicle. So far have replaced the steering box, pump (with a GM), steering hoses, etc; cleaned up all the electrical grounding, as well as the connections to the starter that were all dirty and corroded - luckily it only left me stranded in my garage and not out and about. Has the usual little issues, rear window ECU solder job, door lock springs, rear sunroof off-track, etc. I'm going to be getting it completely tuned up and run it stock before looking at mods, want to see where it falls short before dropping money on lift, tires, etc.

In the mail is recovery gear - couple recovery straps, clevis rings, and a receiver-mount ring. Still not sure what to do for front recovery points, I'm going to be trimming the front bumper so I don't know if I'll go with something like the JATE rings or look at paying a buddy to weld up a solution before I potentially switch to an aftermarket bumper.

I know I'll have lots of questions as I get her worked on and cleaned up, and will post as many progress pics as I can! Hoping to hit some local trails in February and March.

Sorry about the crap pictures, been busy and had a lot of winter weather so haven't taken many photos yet.



The culprit behind most of my power steering leak... high pressure line had been rubbing on the corner of the block for quite some time.


New custom hoses from a local shop


And why my key won't open the door... stupid plastic lock cam. Anyone replaced just the plastic pieces?


Soldering the window ECU, of course need a good beer!

 

[sedat]

the plastic cam is replacable. just don't drop the cylinder when you remove the clip.

 

[Rovertrader]

There is a very simple rear window ECU bypass- think it was from AB.
Suggest doing a simple Jate ring on front after trimming bumper, and a hitch point in rear. Modify later if truck warrants extra monies.
Smart approach- all the best!!

 

[zeroland]

Nice looking D1.

The plastic clip from the door lock is replaceable with a metal one from an earlier Range Rover door lock. I will try find the part number for the Range Rover item and post it later.

 

[fishEH]

There is a very simple rear window ECU bypass- think it was from AB.
Suggest doing a simple Jate ring on front after trimming bumper, and a hitch point in rear. Modify later if truck warrants extra monies.
Smart approach- all the best!!

I have this kit, it came with a bunch of parts I got from a guy. If anybody wants it they can have it.

 

[Rovertrader]

In all reality it consist of some electrical connectors- though the install schematic is 'priceless'...

 

[timmy!!!!!!!]

FishEh I will take the kit if you don't want it.

 

[roverandom]

Nice to see you taking the stock for now approach while you get the truck fettled. Best way IMHO. Wish I could say I did the same first time out.

Disco comes stock with a front recovery loop attached to the frame that would stick out below the bumper, between the air dam. It's ok for stuff you would run stock.

Jate rings are easy and cheap but not the best. You need to be careful with serious extractions as the frame 'tubes' they pass trough are not always as secure as you would hope. On a older truck they may also be rusty. Always use two together in tandem.

Having said that, i have never seen them fail when used in tandem and for a low cost-stock front recovery solution while you weigh your options they are hard to beat.

Good luck with your new Rover.

PS. Stay away from Dweb if your not thick skinned.

 

[clang]

In all reality it consist of some electrical connectors- though the install schematic is 'priceless'...

Can you post up the schematic? My rear windows have the same issue....

Thanks!

 

[Rovertrader]

http://www.roverparts.com/Techtips/WindowLiftRepair.cfm

 

[brianf408]

Been out of town for work since my last post, left the Rover at home for the wife to drive in the snow. Somehow she managed to get the diff locked (selector is very stiff) to get up an icy hill, but when she went to unlock it the light stayed on. I drove it Saturday and the selector and lock are still functioning fine, just seems like the indicator is stuck on. Hopefully can get that resolved when I tear into the selector and grease everything up.

My starter issue showed up again on Sunday. Turn the key, one click from the starter solenoid and then the engine doesn't turn over. Lights don't dim or anything, it's just like there's no power getting to the starter motor. Cleaned up the power leads again to no avail. Battery tests fine, I haven't had a chance to dig into it any more, but I'm not sure if it's the starter itself that has failed, the battery-to-starter cable, or the ground strap to the starter. The battery cable itself is pretty floppy, which tells me that even if it isn't the culprit, it's still pretty corroded and needs replaced sooner than later. Going to pull the cable and ground strap tonight and see if I can get some new ones made before I drop the coin on a new starter.

 

[brianf408]

Alright guys, need some CDL advice from the experts. Drove to work today, everything seemed fine, wasn't binding up in corners or giving any difficulty steering. Go to pull into the parking garage and all of a sudden it's like the lock engaged; the wheel is fighting me and there's a lot of clicking when I turn. Selector is still in the unlocked-hi position, but the light is still illuminated. What could have caused it to randomly engage the lock like that? Bent/broken linkage?

I haven't had a chance to mess with it any more, this afternoon I'm going to try reversing to disengage, and maybe switching between different gearing to see if I can manage to unlock it. This happens to be the one day that I don't have my tools with me, would the 10 mile drive home be too damaging, as long as I take it easy and make wide turns?

 

[optimusprime]

Been out of town for work since my last post, left the Rover at home for the wife to drive in the snow. Somehow she managed to get the diff locked (selector is very stiff) to get up an icy hill, but when she went to unlock it the light stayed on. I drove it Saturday and the selector and lock are still functioning fine, just seems like the indicator is stuck on. Hopefully can get that resolved when I tear into the selector and grease everything up.

My starter issue showed up again on Sunday. Turn the key, one click from the starter solenoid and then the engine doesn't turn over. Lights don't dim or anything, it's just like there's no power getting to the starter motor. Cleaned up the power leads again to no avail. Battery tests fine, I haven't had a chance to dig into it any more, but I'm not sure if it's the starter itself that has failed, the battery-to-starter cable, or the ground strap to the starter. The battery cable itself is pretty floppy, which tells me that even if it isn't the culprit, it's still pretty corroded and needs replaced sooner than later. Going to pull the cable and ground strap tonight and see if I can get some new ones made before I drop the coin on a new starter.

Easy test for an earth problem, use a jump lead to connect battery earth to suitable point on engine block.

Have you checked the terminal on the small feed wire going to the solenoid, you may have to squeeze the terminal a bit to 'close' it up a bit, giving a tighter connection.
Might just be the starter solenoid is on its way out.

 

[brianf408]

Easy test for an earth problem, use a jump lead to connect battery earth to suitable point on engine block.

Have you checked the terminal on the small feed wire going to the solenoid, you may have to squeeze the terminal a bit to 'close' it up a bit, giving a tighter connection.
Might just be the starter solenoid is on its way out.

It actually turned out to be the positive battery cable. Pulled it out and ran a jumper cable from the battery to the starter post and the truck fired right up. Replaced the cable last night with a new one. The old one really didn't look too bad, but was pretty flexible and must have had a break or really corroded spot somewhere inside the jacket.

 

[brunjc2]

Alright guys, need some CDL advice from the experts. Drove to work today, everything seemed fine, wasn't binding up in corners or giving any difficulty steering. Go to pull into the parking garage and all of a sudden it's like the lock engaged; the wheel is fighting me and there's a lot of clicking when I turn. Selector is still in the unlocked-hi position, but the light is still illuminated. What could have caused it to randomly engage the lock like that? Bent/broken linkage?

I haven't had a chance to mess with it any more, this afternoon I'm going to try reversing to disengage, and maybe switching between different gearing to see if I can manage to unlock it. This happens to be the one day that I don't have my tools with me, would the 10 mile drive home be too damaging, as long as I take it easy and make wide turns?

The locking mech on my DI was stuck on mine when I first purchased it. Pretty common from what I understand. I disassembled the linkage and lubed it up, and had to jump underneath and twist the linkage arm on the case to get it freed up. That and a lot of physical labor on the handle end.

I would suggest make sure it is securely engaged in 4H and ensure the locking mech is not binding.

I wish I could be better help, I'm sure someone else here has better advice.

Oh, and look under your carpet for rust! If it's anything like mine, you'll want to address it before it becomes a problem.

Mine is mostly stock too, and it's incredibly fun off-road, good choice on modifications as you go!