Looking for a little input regarding mount a camper to a flatbed.

[deminimis]

I think I'm going about this right, but thought I'd look for some input too. As of today, my flatbed is mounted in the standard fashion (solid mounting). Seems the best way to mount a camper to a flatbed like this, at this time, is via four spring loaded mounts. Now, once I get around to a torsion-free flatbed mounting system (going with the M35 style of cargo bed mounting -Spring loaded brackets for middle and front mounts, and a solid bracket mount at the rear (same mounting as the front mounts, but not spring loaded)), it seems I could either solidly mount the camper to the flatbed (no spring loaded mounts between camper and flatbed), or solidly mount the rear camper mounts to the flatbed and use spring loaded mounts for the front two camper mounts. Clear as mud? There will be 1/4" rubber between the camper and flatbed deck to cut down on camper movement and provide a smidge of cushion. Once the bed is torsion-free, I would think solid or front spring loaded would be fine. However, it seems having front spring loaded camper mounts would add a margin of safety (meaning should I end up beyond the capabilities of the flatbed mounting system and the flatbed twists at all, the spring loading would take up the cause and help keep the camper for disintegrating). Thoughts? Thanks.

 

[IdaSHO]

You want the camper rigidly mounted to the flatbed.

It is FLAT, afterall.

Allow the bed to flex independently of the chassis, but do not allow the camper to flex independent of the bed.


Standard pickups can get away with marginal tie-downs because of the bed sides. It contains the camper.

Not so on a flatbed.

 

[deminimis]

Thanks SHO. It's definitely flat when heading down the road, but if things get twisty, even with a torsion free type mounting, I could see the bed flexing a bit if the mounting springs max out. Doubtful I'd get in that situation, but one never knows. This isn't an overbuilt homebrew flatbed. It has two "C" channels for a spine with pretty light cross bracing (approx every foot, however). There is no perimeter channel, per se'. The outside edge is built via a couple 90 degree brakes in the diamond plate decking to create the edge. All in all, pretty stout, but at 11'+, a little twisting should be expected, I would think. I'm not worried about containment as I'll have 8' boxes on the top, plus the rear mounts will be solid, regardless of how I go (actually a camper should never be hitting a pickup's bed sides or wheel wells, but does happen). Further, in regards to containment, I'm considering adding 1/2" of beveled plate to the alum camper base structure I'm building. If goes as planned, those beveled plates (tabs) will settle into the two most rear stake pockets (I decided to go this route as the bevel will help guide the camper into place when loading, but will also allow the tabs to pop out of the stake pockets without tweaking the new structure should the camper twist a bunch somehow). So far the only reason I'm coming up with to solidly mount the camper all around is due to the rear of my camper. I've cut off the low hanging business on my camper so nearly the whole 12' floor rests on the flatbed. This wide section of camper at the rear was not designed with the obvious impending upward (rolling) forces in mind. The alum structure I'm building will help with those forces, but won't negate them entirely. For that reason, I think I need to go with solid mounts. However, if it wasn't for that issue I think spring loaded front mounts would be fine, perhaps even preferable. Then again, perhaps not.

 

[Capt Eddie]

I have done what you are trying to do. I have a rubber mat on the floor of the flatbed. I use spring tensioners on all four corners. Along with short pieces of chain that are longer then the spring in max load position. It has worked perfect. I wil admit this to you and nobody else. The last time I unloaded the camper I forget to indo the Fastgun. I was able to jack the camper up far enough to bottom out the spring and the chain safety pulled up the 3/8" plate and bend it. When I let it back down The only damage that I could find was the bent plate. I have 12K miles on this setup and have not noticed any movement in the camper. I also have centering guides in the bed that only have 1/2" total play in the side to side movement. Where you are going to have fun is figuring out have to attach your storage boxes. If I were you, I would install the boxes then figure out where to put the tie downs. The last thing you want to do is have to cut holes in your boxes. That is the mistake I made on my first two bed. Whatever you do. Do not mount the camper solid to the bed. You have to allow for the bed to flex but the camper frame stay ridged.

 

[deminimis]

Thanks Capt. Going to have to cut a hole in the boxes for the tie downs, but I think I've got that squared away. I keep toying with the idea of going w/ aluminum boxes on top and integrating them into the camper structure, but that's a discussion for another day. After a lttle more messing around tonight, I do think I'll solidly mount the rear mounts as they will attach well aft of the rear axle, and that part of the bed will not flex (and I don't want that rear part of the camper to roll at all). However, I'm going to have to see how much twist the bed has, if any, before I make a final decision.

 

[Capt Eddie]

I was able to use the jack location. As a tie down spot. I bet If you go ahead and mount the boxes so that they can be used all the time. as compared to using the camper as art of the storage box as some have done. The jack locations should be away from the boxes. I used a 6 inch plate attached to the front of the bed. No more water in the boxes. Dry boxes should be a priority over using easy anchor locations. The angle of the tie down mount is more important then the actual location of the mount. If you do not have the right angle in all 4 directions you will allow movement. As well as putting stress on any anchor that is properly angled.

 

[deminimis]

Well, I split the baby and it seems to work and work well. 25 degree angle . Torklift Anchor Guards w/ Derringers. The rears are rubber cushioned (near solid) and fronts spring loaded. Just for the test, no rubber mat on the slippery flatbed. I haven't welded a front bulkhead stop yet either. Just did a speedy test drive on tight curves with increasing tighter cornering and increasingly heavier braking. Camper didn't budge at all. I'm considering that a "win" as far as the tie down setup is concerned. Just emailed my box builder. Recessed along tie downs and trapezoidal door. The perfect solution.

 

[Dustytires]

This thread is worthless without photos! Love to see photos of your set up Capt.. I have a plan to go bigger someday with some storage boxes. Your set up sounds dialed