Looking for grade 70 chain or winch line inexpensive

[eric1115]

Something else to consider: you can't run chain through a snatch block. If you find yourself getting stuck deeper than your hi lift can comfortably pull you out of, you can double the pulling power of your setup pretty easily if you have synthetic (or wire) rope. My setup is similar to yours (tree straps, shackles, a hi lift, 25' of chain. I'm torn on my next addition, between a quality hand winch and a winch extension line and snatch block.

 

[Antichrist]

Considering that a snatch block will require "winching" twice as much to get the same distance as single line, just the thought of doing it exhausts me.

 

[supesazpd]

The snatch block is a decent point but as mentioned it would at minimum double the winching time (though it's not like ur going anywhere) but adding snatch blocks and hardware to attach them, adds a cost I am not willing to invest in yet. Another thing to consider with the snatch block, you might not have the room to reset your winch with the line still under tension as you can with the chain.
I do like the idea of increasing the pulling power, but I believe you also increase the stress on all componemts involved, and the winch/hi lift might not stand up to it.
Another issue I have where I wheel is findind big solid trees to anchor to, so using snatch blocks just adds to the anchor points I need.

 

[supesazpd]

Hey Endo, I found their extensions but they have very limited info, they don't even list how long they are.

I would say look at ARB. They have a winch extension that can be had for the price you just quoted.

 

[supesazpd]

Thanks and this is a very good tip. I did order in 2 25' lengths, for this reason, and that I may not always need that extra extension/length. I plan on carrying both on the trail but hope to not need either

If you decide to get chain I would suggest buying it in 20-25' lengths.
Chains are really heavy. I have 40' of chain and it weighs around 50 lbs.
I'm just saying if you have to lug this up a hill its better to have shorter lengths and make two trips.

 

[supesazpd]

This is also a very good point. I did have to move debris from a trail this past weekend and I had a cheap harbor freight chain and a nice tow strap with me. I never even considered using my tow strap for fear of damaging it.

Always good to have the chain, wire and rope do not fair well pulling trees and such off the road

Sent from my GT-P6210 using Tapatalk

 

[supesazpd]

Thank you Anti, this site came in slightly cheaper than the ebay sources I had been finding. And since it wasn't auction based I was able to order it just how I wanted. I couldn't find anything on them through the better business bureau but they did accept Paypal so no worries there. I hope to have it by the end of the week!

Grade 70 Transport chain is not cheap.
Here's one place at random: http://www.mfrexpress.com/38x25-grade-70-binder-transport-chain-short-link-p-551.html

 

[Antichrist]

You might want to get a slip hook also. I keep one in my recovery bag as occasionally they are more useful than a grab hook, like for dragging trees off the trail. They're easy to swap out with the grab hook when needed.

 

[eric1115]

The snatch block is a decent point but as mentioned it would at minimum double the winching time (though it's not like ur going anywhere) but adding snatch blocks and hardware to attach them, adds a cost I am not willing to invest in yet. Another thing to consider with the snatch block, you might not have the room to reset your winch with the line still under tension as you can with the chain.
I do like the idea of increasing the pulling power, but I believe you also increase the stress on all componemts involved, and the winch/hi lift might not stand up to it.
Another issue I have where I wheel is findind big solid trees to anchor to, so using snatch blocks just adds to the anchor points I need.

A snatch block would at MOST double the winching time; if you're at the edge of what you can pull, it makes each stroke much easier. It decreases the stress in all components involved, except the strap that the block is anchored to (halves the stress on the winch or jack). As far as anchor points, take a look at how to rig a double line pull. You just need one anchor, same as a single line. Also, you don't need to eliminate the chain from the kit, but you can carry 15' instead of 50' with this setup. It's entirely possible to re-rig keeping tension.

Yes, it's a bunch of work, but it beats sitting down and twiddling your thumbs waiting for someone with a winch to come rescue you.

 

[supesazpd]

I ordered one chain with clevis (both ends) and one with slip hooks, I figured I could use the clevis or interchange depending on the situation.

You might want to get a slip hook also. I keep one in my recovery bag as occasionally they are more useful than a grab hook, like for dragging trees off the trail. They're easy to swap out with the grab hook when needed.

Ok I see what you are saying about one anchor point. This would certainly work from the rear of my vehicle but from the front I am very limited on my recovery points (only 1 hook). But I will consider upgrading later down the road.

A snatch block would at MOST double the winching time; if you're at the edge of what you can pull, it makes each stroke much easier. It decreases the stress in all components involved, except the strap that the block is anchored to (halves the stress on the winch or jack). As far as anchor points, take a look at how to rig a double line pull. You just need one anchor, same as a single line. Also, you don't need to eliminate the chain from the kit, but you can carry 15' instead of 50' with this setup. It's entirely possible to re-rig keeping tension.

Yes, it's a bunch of work, but it beats sitting down and twiddling your thumbs waiting for someone with a winch to come rescue you.

 

[bfdiesel]

There is an old timer idea of running a rope (not wire rope) threaded through the chain links to prevent a snap back. Use the biggest rope that will fit through the links.

 

[supesazpd]

You are referring to the snap back if the chain were to break? Is this intended to replace weights/dampener on the chain? I have not practiced with my hi-lift yet (chain is due in this weekend), will the rope still allow winching?

There is an old timer idea of running a rope (not wire rope) threaded through the chain links to prevent a snap back. Use the biggest rope that will fit through the links.

 

[bfdiesel]

Yes to soak up energy from a break. To winch maybe go every other link to have one to lock into place or hook the chain back on itself.
I have never done this so...
I have seen a 3/8 logging chain stretched until the links locked permanently. Didn't break, but would have if it would have continued to be used. Takes a lot of force to do that. More than you can generate with a hi lift by a lot, so i probably wouldn't worry to much about the chain. Hooks and anchors are where i focus my attention.

 

[supesazpd]

Ok, so I ordered 2 25' lengths of chain, but now have added a 47'+/- of winch extension line (eyes at both ends). I will ditch one of the chains and carry the chain/rope combo. This will give me the 25' for the majority of extractions, and the extension for bigger obstacles. I would like to add a snatch block eventually, but for now this setup should work very well.
Thanks to all for the great input.:victory:

 

[HillbillyfromAL]

I'd like to see how someone would have used a winch extension to winch with a Hi-Lift. It won have worked for getting some extra reach to an anchor but that's it. I think for what your doing the chain was the only practical solution. I use my chain instead of snatch straps most the time, but only with slow steady pulls no yanking. I haven't needed to use a strap in a couple of years now. Also to really help when winching with a high lift try to clean and lube the bar & feet it'll make the same work alot easier. I used to be broke too