Looking for Tire Carrier Spindles

[Funrover]

I really like these set ups, can I get more info and reports on these? I like how I can make a great departure angle and have 2 hinges....

Demello's creations... Barrel hinge application....

 

[preacherman]

I am a fan of this style latch, it closes very tight. If the hinge fails, it's unlikely that this 1/2" grade 8 bolt will fail at the same time

I just changed my latch to this set up because I was having trouble with the clamp style latch I had previously installed. I am much more happy.

 

[CYi5]

Though how I personally would build it would look more like this:

I've been studying this image and have been scouting out parts on the internet..But I was wondering, what if you want to remove the swing arm? How do you get the grey sleeve out? Or are the oilite bushings maintenance free?

I know your first design is simpler in execution, but wouldn't it also be simpler to remove the arm? As if I made "accessory swing outs" that served different purposes depending on trip type (talk about farkle). Realistically i'll only be doing a single swing out for jerry cans, I was just curious how I would take the arm off once I pound that pin down!

 

[ntsqd]

If you have to pound the gray tube into place something is not right. It should be a snug fit, but should slide into place. There are a couple ways to make it easily removed. Probably the easiest is to partly thread the ID at the top. Then a larger short bolt can be threaded into the top to plug the bore and a long pin or drift used to push it up from the bottom if it can't simply be pulled up with the big bolt.

Oilite-Bronze bushings are pretty service free. Short of the proposed farkle you would only likely need to remove the pin to replace the bushings. I've no idea how long your use would allow the bushings to live, but I'd be surprised if they didn't go 10 years or more, and with the ability to occasionally grease them in place they could easily last longer than would be a concern.

Note that as drawn (it was a qwik sketch) that the bolt's shoulder doesn't extend quite as far into the lower plate as it should. Ideally the shoulder of the bolt is at least flush to the bottom of the lower plate.

 

[CYi5]

Thanks for clearing that up ntsqd. I'm looking at a setup such as this for a 2x2 swing bar and 2x3 base:

Ballistic sleeve BUS-653 $8.00 , 2" OD, 1.5" ID, L 2.5"

Bronze Bushings 6338K441 $3.73 OD 1.5", ID 1.25", L 1"

Bronze Sleeve 2867T71 $10.60 OD 1.25", ID 1", L 3" (would be trimmed down)

Bolt 91257A992 $10.81 1"-14, L 7" (or local) The bolt is so long because the pivot will be ontop of the 2x3.

Any thoughts? Thanks

 

[ntsqd]

If the bushings are bronze then the sleave wants to be something hard. Basic bushing methodology is that one of the mating surfaces is smooth and hard while the other is relatively soft. The closer those two surfaces are to being the same, the more they will gall. There needs to be a large difference in surface hardness for best results. Ideally the hardest surface is also very smooth.

For a low cost solution for the sleeve I'd use some DOM tubing, polish the OD by putting it in a lathe or a drill press and sanding with very fine emery paper, case harden it using "Kasenit" (MMC p/n 3204K1), polish it again using ultra fine emery, and install it.

The sleeve wall should be thicker too. The idea is that you can torque down the bolt against the sleeve, so the sleeve has to have enough wall thickness to withstand that torque. If you're going to use a 1" bolt I'd use a minimum sleeve OD of 1.5"

If you're going to put it on top of a rectangular tube the sleeve needs to extend through the top surface of the rectangular tube and butt against the inside bottom surface of the rectangular tube. Where you'll run into trouble is with the supports for the top plate. There isn't enough width in a 2" tube for a rear plate to clear the rotating parts. Which leaves you with only an end plate to support the top plate. That's marginal.

EDIT: I put together a quick SW model to work it through and if you are careful about where the zerk is when welding the swinger's main tube to the 2" OD tube, and you're not interested in more than 90* of opening, then some 3/8" spacers welded tot he back of the 2x3 and on the end will allow enough room for there to be both an end plate and a back plate.

 

[CYi5]

Awesome, thanks for the input. Once again more things to ponder, but definitely helping!

 

[chasespeed]

This is a great thread... thanks...

I have been looking around, for different ways to, attach a spare tire carrier, and ultimately, a few other odds and ends back there as well...

My rear bumper, is a section of 2x6x 0.375 wall rectangle... heavy...

What I am debating, is attaching to the TOP, with a double shear... or, to the face. ON the face, I would have more area to work with...


Anyway, keep this thread rolling... I havent decided HOW I am going to do this....BUT... I am getting there....

THEN... next thing is, to weld it...

BUT, need to come up with a design, and, any input from ya'll would be great... I kinda wanna keep the tire as low as possible, but, not THAT low, etc... I will work some more with sketch up, and, or paint, or something, and see if I can come up with something.

Chase

 

[ntsqd]

On the face would be a more rigid structure. Use some variation of one of the generic hinge designs I posted previously.

 

[SWbySWesty]

Check out AJ's Offroad Armour. He sells the parts to make a swing out. Looks pretty tough

 

[getlost4x4]

i use a 1" bolt grade 5 with brass bushings. works great, double sheer. no breakage.