keep telling yourself that. The True trac is a lot more than a limited slip, and again yes the non rubi is a better T case because of the gearing. Rubi is better crawling over rocks etc...the sport / non rubi tcase will get you out of snow/mud/sand better....Proven fact, not just a guess.
Looking to absorb some of the Jeep wisdom here
- Thread starter Hopeless Diamond
- Start date
MOguy
Explorer
A JKU with those diffs is not comparable to a Rubi.
A JKU with those diffs is not comparable to a Rubi.
A JKU with those diffs is not comparable to a Rubi.
A JKU with those diffs is not comparable to a Rubi.
A JKU with those diffs is not comparable to a Rubi.
A JKU with those diffs is not comparable to a Rubi.
oops, did I type that out loud?
Show me your proven facts.
SHOW ME YOUR PROVEN FACTS.....
Proven fact, more wheel spin is better when going through mud/sand/snow....fact, my sport T case provides this...
Proven fact, the true trac provides the same grip and torque to the wheels as your diffs locked...
Proven fact, If I put a wheel in the air with the true tracs, I activate BLD, and guess what....the TT's lock back up...providing grip!....
Proven fact, your d44 rear is exactly the same as mine, your D44 front has all the same "drawbacks" as the d30 in my sport
Proven fact, the swaybar disconnect is a waste of money in the rubicon as it is prone to failure, meanwhile, I pull two pins and I am discoed....works all the time, every time.
Proven fact, the quoted post here makes you sound like a 4 year old taking his 10a rubicon out of the sand box and going home.
da10A
Adventurer
Don't put all 10A owners in the same sand box tho ?
Don't forget that the lower gearing of the Rubi t-case only applies in 4lo.... And I doubt that you go through mud in 4lo.... As said in one of my previous posts, my superchips tuner allows me to run the lockers in 4Hi.
Envoyé de mon SM-T530NU en utilisant Tapatalk
Don't forget that the lower gearing of the Rubi t-case only applies in 4lo.... And I doubt that you go through mud in 4lo.... As said in one of my previous posts, my superchips tuner allows me to run the lockers in 4Hi.
Envoyé de mon SM-T530NU en utilisant Tapatalk
MOguy
Explorer
Nope, mud is about traction, either will be effective but lockers are better, you can still spin them. Snow lockers better as long as it is deep enough to get a bite if not, open diff will keep you straighter then either locker or limited slip. Sand, not as aggrieve tires, air down, traction is not an issue, staying on top is. Look at dun buggies, they aren't even 4wheel drive.
There is nothing wrong with true tracs, I would rather have them over auto lockers but not selectable lockers such as the rubi has. Plus the gearing is a big deal. For the OP a stock JK or TJ would probably be adequate BUT if he get bit by the buy and ends up building his Jeep the rubi has allot already done from the factory and for the money a good deal as opposed to going out adding selectable lockers, re-gearing you axle and your TCase.
having selectable lockers allows you to unlock increasing you maneuverability.
Where your proof?
PS, I have an 01 sport with a D30 like you have, D44 in the back. I also have ARBs and have re-geared. That was expensive. Getting it in the Rubi is $$ a good deal.
Desert Rat 1
Adventurer
I see both points of view here and I'll give you my two cents too. If you can, IMHO; go with a new JKUR!
Why limit yourself where you can or can't go, things don't always go as planned and the type of terrain we go through can change dramatically after just a short rainstorm and you'll be needing it when list expected. Also just like with a winch or any other type of gear we carry, it's one of those "it's better to have it and don't need it than to don't have it and need it" type of deal. Give yourself peace of mind when you're out there, knowing that you are prepared!
Why limit yourself where you can or can't go, things don't always go as planned and the type of terrain we go through can change dramatically after just a short rainstorm and you'll be needing it when list expected. Also just like with a winch or any other type of gear we carry, it's one of those "it's better to have it and don't need it than to don't have it and need it" type of deal. Give yourself peace of mind when you're out there, knowing that you are prepared!
professorkx
Observer
^This...
You have no idea regarding the true tracs obviously, as they do not hinder maneuverability in any way. They fully lock up when needed. The ONLY issue with them is putting a wheel in the air....with different rigs this could be a problem, but where the JK has BLD, they work like a fully selectable locker. A little bonus of the Jeep brand.
MOguy
Explorer
I know they are effective and a great diff, no question. But they are different than lockers. In snow (deep enough to grab) and mud I prefer my lockers in my jeep. I like open diffs on packed snow or ice.
My 4Runner has a very good 4 wheel drive system with limited slip in the center "tcase" (really a T3 diff) and limited slip in the rear with also sorts of cool electronic assisting gadgets for traction and down hill control, it will be similar to yours. I have wheeled with JKs with all the electronics helps and it all works for the most part BUT when you hang a wheel for a long time it gets confused, even with the brake assist. When I was in the I Army I drove allot of Hummers, they have a great setup. The use Torsen diffs and brake modulation is extremely effective with them and you can control it. The electronic setups can be unpredictable.
Going down a step hill the gadgets don't beat a low low gear and compression braking. The electronics get confused and can be jerky at times. Going up a steep hill and having knowing that my power is equal to all wheels or open in front to maneuvers helps me know how to choose my line. I also like to be able to bump when going over slick stuff, electronics screw up when you do that.
I have wheeled with a few type of traction devices. Selectable lockers are what I prefer most next would be a good limited slip. I do not like auto lockers.
The electronic assists are great for my wife or when I don't want to concentrate as hard.
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Hopeless Diamond
Explorer
and now for something completely different...
Being here in the Seattle area, my assumption is hardtop all the way. I've heard the soft tops are very good and actually seen less commenting on them leaking than the hardtops. I had an SVT Cobra Convertible (what a fun car!) and was really impressed with the soft top on that. They used the same material as used in the Jaguars so it was pretty refined, insulated too. I bet the soft tops on the Jeeps is probably not quite the same though. It's not so much the rain (we probably get less rain than you guys on the east coast, it's just spread out over seemingly almost every day), it's the condensation inside, the dampness, etc.
Some other areas I've heard mentioned are the muffler and evap canister locations. Factory locations leave them exposed and it would be better to relocate them. Any of you with auto's, any cooling problems?
Being here in the Seattle area, my assumption is hardtop all the way. I've heard the soft tops are very good and actually seen less commenting on them leaking than the hardtops. I had an SVT Cobra Convertible (what a fun car!) and was really impressed with the soft top on that. They used the same material as used in the Jaguars so it was pretty refined, insulated too. I bet the soft tops on the Jeeps is probably not quite the same though. It's not so much the rain (we probably get less rain than you guys on the east coast, it's just spread out over seemingly almost every day), it's the condensation inside, the dampness, etc.
Some other areas I've heard mentioned are the muffler and evap canister locations. Factory locations leave them exposed and it would be better to relocate them. Any of you with auto's, any cooling problems?
I have auto and its fine. I sold my soft top due to lack of use, and I am installing a low profile roof rack for bikes/kayaks etc. You can still go topless very quick...8 bolts and done!...
the evap canister is a exposed point, but I have never hit my muffler. I tow a 10ft hard top camper, and never see high trans temps. As I said before 99 % of JK myths including everyone needs a rubicon, the D30 is made of glass, 3.8 is crap, trans will overheat if you put a six pack and 2 people in it, are all a crock of you know what. I have 185,000 on my JK and NO ISSUES.
the evap canister is a exposed point, but I have never hit my muffler. I tow a 10ft hard top camper, and never see high trans temps. As I said before 99 % of JK myths including everyone needs a rubicon, the D30 is made of glass, 3.8 is crap, trans will overheat if you put a six pack and 2 people in it, are all a crock of you know what. I have 185,000 on my JK and NO ISSUES.
MOguy
Explorer
With the TJ thd hard top is one piece. Harder to takeoff and store. Withe JK I beleive is multiple pieces, easier to handle and store. Soft top is noisier. But with the soft top you can just fold back the top so if you are 100 miles from home you want to take the top down you can. You can drive down the freeway top up, get to where you are going, drop the top. If it starts to rain or gets colder top back up. I can't imagine why anybody would want a convertible vehicle where you couldn't take the top up or down when ever you felt like it. Maybe its a jeep thing some don't understand.
I have never had any condensation problems with the soft top on my Jeep.
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