Lowly the Lorry. . .

Looking good. How much overhang do you have? Looks like quite a lot...
The new subframe overhangs off the back of the chassis 23". The habitat will hang another few inches past that. Add in the goodies hanging off the back of the truck and, yeah, it is a fair amount of overhang. Nothing I can do about that in order to have this size of a habitat. I'll do my best preserve as much departure angle as possible.

- Sheik
 

Iain_U1250

Explorer
The new subframe overhangs off the back of the chassis 23". The habitat will hang another few inches past that. Add in the goodies hanging off the back of the truck and, yeah, it is a fair amount of overhang. Nothing I can do about that in order to have this size of a habitat. I'll do my best preserve as much departure angle as possible.

- Sheik
Do you guys have various "rules" for overhang - I know here that we are only allowed 60% of the wheelbase. If yours is more than that, then you won't be allowed to bring it to visit Australia. I would make sure, it looks like you have a lot more than that, and you will need to comply with the truck dimension rules in whatever country you plan on visiting, not just where you live.
 

Geo.Lander

Well-known member
Do you guys have various "rules" for overhang - I know here that we are only allowed 60% of the wheelbase. If yours is more than that, then you won't be allowed to bring it to visit Australia. I would make sure, it looks like you have a lot more than that, and you will need to comply with the truck dimension rules in whatever country you plan on visiting, not just where you live.

It's 60% (or very slightly more) everywhere in Europe (and Norway).
 

RoamIt

Well-known member
I've been compiling notes for my build and when I just went back to look to see if I had anything around this, I found this note. But I don't remember the source of the info!

"Your house must be no wider than 2.5 meters, no higher than 4.5 meters and the rear overhang must not be more than 60% of the wheelbase"

For what it's worth :unsure:
 

mog

Kodiak Buckaroo
Time to stop and talk to an engineer. you need to lengthen the wheelbase or shorten the habitat. Keep going like that and you are headed for trouble.
'Merica so no 60% rule and Ahhhh, da_sheik is an engineer (and not the type that wears a hog head hat) so I'm sure he has it figured out. :unsure:
 

Sitec

Adventurer
It's always worth having the conversation early though. If overseas travel is planned it's something that'll need to be factored in. If not, then happy days.
 
Lowly Update:

With the subframe sitting on the chassis it was time to finalize its location front to back. This position was contingent on the space needed between the back of the cab and the front of the habitat for the pass-thru's geometry AND the ability to tilt the cab forward with the pass-thru disconnected. A stand-off distance was determined in collaboration with Globe Trekker (habitat and associated goodies supplier) using solid model geometries on the computer.

The floor panel was then lifted onto the subframe and dry-fit. The thru-holes in the subframe, thru-holes in the bottom of the floor panel and the tapped holes in the steel bars inserted into the panel's rectangular aluminum cross-stiffeners miraculously lined up. For once in my life I designed in sloppy enough clearances to allow for easy assembly!

The subframe/floor panel assembly was then positioned on the chassis to allow the proper gap distance. Locations of remaining subframe components were then determined on how the geometries of the subframe lined up with components on the chassis.

Floor panel was then removed and set aside. Subframe was then removed from the truck and set back down on the sawhorses for the last round of welding. Hold-down brackets, side-side movement prevention plates and winch cable tie-bars were welded into place on the subframe.
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With welding complete the subframe was set off to the side to eventually receive paint. The floor panel was moved back to the sawhorses so it could get prepped for habitat assembly. Cross-stiffener location was marked using tape, protective plastic film was peeled back from the edges and tape was placed around the perimeter to mark proper edge extrusion installation location and provide a clean caulking finish.
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The bolt-down bars were then inserted into the cross-stiffeners for the final time and held in place using lengths of all-thread (one per bar) to keep the bars from shifting during assembly and having to relocate the tapped holes in-situ.
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By this time the fall-out of my black Friday shopping spree began to arrive: induction cooktop and ventilation roof vents.
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Hoping all of you reading this had a great Thanksgiving and had took time to reflect on the blessings each of us has received.

- Sheik
 
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Lowly Update:

With the floor panel properly prepped I had no more excuses to delay in beginning the habitat assembly process. First task was to dry-fit the front and side edge extrusions on the floor panel. Once these items were in place and squared up I marked their center points with indication marks on the layout tape to easily identify when the panels were properly located when installed with adhesive.

One side edge extrusions was then removed from the dry fit and its interior surfaces cleaned with alcohol. The corresponding panel edges (top and bottom) were also wiped down with alcohol to allow for maximum adhesion. Sikaflex 552 was then applied to the extrusion's 4 glue grooves using a battery powered caulking gun.
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The side extrusion was then installed using liberal amounts of grunting, dead-blow hammering and ratchet strapping.
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This process was then repeated for the front and second side extrusions. The back extrusion is left off the assembly at this point (it will be installed with the rear panel in the last assembly operation). The floor panel was then hoisted off the sawhorses and lowered onto furniture dollies.
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The front wall panel was then prepped in similar fashion to that of the floor with indication tape and surface film peeled back from the edges. Mating surfaces were cleaned with alcohol, adhesive applied to the front/bottom edge extrusion and the wall set into place with the help of a couple friends (thanks mog!). Grateful for the gravity assist on getting this one to seat. Front vertical edge extrusions were then installed using the same process and squeezed into place using ratcheting straps.
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Plywood squares were then clamped into place to force the front wall into plumb while the adhesive cured.
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So far so good; time to get the side walls prepped for install!

- Sheik
 
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Sitec

Adventurer
Building your Hab Box like that makes it all come together really quickly! Before too long you'll have the hab Box on the back of the truck! Great work!
 
Lowly Update:

Put the Critters to work doing some child-labor type activities such as hardware assembly for the habitat corner caps.
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Goodies for Lowly keep arriving from my Black Friday shopping spree. The dining table will be able to lower down to provide additional sleeping real-estate should the need arise.
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Gave the front wall a couple days to cure before attempting to install the side panels. This gave me plenty of time to prep the side panels with layout tape and formulate a game plan for when the helpers arrived.
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I also used this time to dialogue with the fellas at Globe Trekker (company who made my habitat box's components) about some tight tolerances between the panels and one of the extrusion sockets where the thermal break is located. It was determined that more of this thermal break bump needed to be removed to allow for easier panel installation so I designed and 3D printed a jig for my router and a 3/4" diameter straight cutting bit.
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With their blessing I tested the jig/router on a sample piece of extrusion and it worked fantastic.
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I'm planning to adjust the jig so it cuts a little wider than this test to make it easier for the remaining 16 foot long extrusions to be snugged into place. Full disclosure: this is habitat #3 for Globe Trekker and I purchased this kit knowing full well there might be some minor issues they were still in the process of getting dialed. So far GT has been fantastic about receiving my feedback and collaborating on any necessary tweaks (like this one). Based on my experiences and other habitats currently being assembled, I'd expect this thermal break gap distance to be widened and quality controlled by GT to a point where DIY assemblers won't even know it was an issue. I'm very happy thus far with their product and wouldn't hesitate to give them my business if I was to do it over again.

The offer of pizza lured some friends to help assemble the 2 side panels. All things considered (never done this before!), they went together pretty well.
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Here's some tips from Mr. T:
1) "I pity the fool who doesn't use a battery powered or pneumatic caulking gun"
2) "I pity the fool who doesn't warm up his Sikaflex 552 if the shop is cold"
3) "I pity the fool who doesn't have at least 3, 20 foot long ratchet straps"
4) "I pity the fool who doesn't have at least 5 friends who can be suckered into helping by offering to feed them cheap pizza"
5) "I pity the fool who attempts to assemble a habitat when it is so hot out the curing time of his Sikaflex is accelerated"
6) "I pity the fool who doesn't have at least 3 plywood corner squares and enough quick clamps"
7) "I pity the fool who doesn't watch the how-to videos provided by the habitat manufacturer"

With the sides assembled, the ceiling/lid panel layout is currently underway. Internal ceiling wiring has to be run before the lid panel extrusions can be assembled. This necessitates the habitat's internal and external design to be nearly 100% complete in order to determine positions of lights, fans, vents, switches, etc. Feels great to have made it this far in the construction, but who knew eating this elephant would take so many highly thought-out bites!

- Sheik
 
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mog

Kodiak Buckaroo
8) "I pity the fool who doesn't have the engineering and programming skills, along with a 3D printer to manufacture a specialty tool in 15 minutes" :unsure:
[Disclaimer- as one of the pizza inducted laborers I am using one of my 'cards' to harass da_sheik]

I'll add I have helped assemble a Total Composite habitat that was the same size as this one (16x8) and it is very interesting to see each company's approach to the same idea of a 'composite house'.
 
Lowly Update:

More interior kit-out goodies continue to arrive. We decided to go with chest-style refrigeration and pulled the tigger on some Chi-Com manufactured ICECOs.
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Their temperature readouts aren't all that accurate but the fridges do get the temps down to adequate levels. Build quality is adequate as well. The top one will serve as the fridge while the bottom one with a split cavity will serve as a freezer and fridge overflow.

Managed to score my second overland truck-related engineering client and this one probably won't be a shocker: Globe Trekker. They hired me to design and 3D print some routing jigs similar to the one I made to remove more material from the thermal bridge area of the habitat's edge extrusions. Ended up utilizing a Dewalt router as the workhorse tool. The design provides chip extraction via shop-vac and removes the right amount of material from the thermal bridge bump to retain the extrusion's tight fit while making it easier to assemble the extrusions onto the panels. If anyone needs a machine to make plastic and aluminum confetti, I think I've got something for you!
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I'm thinking GT's extrusion vendor will likely get this thermal bridge material removal dimension dialed in after a little more experience in manufacturing this new product, but in the meantime GT will have these jigs to ensure QC tolerances before their product reaches their customers. Glad to see a kit supplier like Globe Trekker taking feedback from customers and making the necessary process changes for future orders.

Lowly got a dusting of snow the other day - tis the season! Merry Christmas to all you ExPo's out there.
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- Sheik
 
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RoamIt

Well-known member
Nice! I've been looking at 3D printing myself. I have a small (9"x11") 4 axis CNC mill that I play around with, but looking at acquiring Markforged Mark 2.
 

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