LR3 Coil spring conversion kit

[kissmywassp]

I was just wondering if anyone on the forum with an LR3 or any other air suspension rover had done this or knows someone that had. Seems like a pretty good option if you didn't want to be concerned about a suspension failure/ confidence for very extended travel. Heres a link, check it out http://www.roversnorth.com/ProductD...E89fIdrSmVDBGMdhHHltaBZL_Jqok7R7OdBoCZgbw_wcB

 

[LR Max]

A few people here have already done it. Search around for more info.

General consensus is that the newer air suspension is pretty darn good and to keep it as is.

 

[nwoods]

The only benefit of a springer is that you can go faster with a higher amount of lift, plus added durability. It definitely does not improve performance or articulation or ride handling. IMHO

 

[KMET]

I've installed the 2" Old Man EMU's, purely as a band-aid. (The ride is great)


This week it's crank sensor, cam sensor, starter solenoid, or possibly alternator issue... I've named our LR3 Boris-2...(See YouTube)


Out of respect, I'll not say how I really feel. Hashtag, done...

 

[Ray_G]

Take a look at my build thread in my sig line, I did the OME +2 conversion and love it. There are some on here that have done it and can quantifiably point towards the pros/cons, like NWoods notes it doesn't improve articulation. To me performance is a subjective statement, i.e. my performance when the truck was on its bump stops in the Empty Quarter was pretty piss poor, but when the EAS worked it was great. Likewise I do think ride quality may be slightly worse but that is somewhat subjective too-or rather perhaps I'm just conditioned by my D1 (and Tacoma) to the point where a coil sprung LR3 still is quite comfortable for long haul driving comparatively.

I would say it rarely makes sense to do it based off initial cost compared to rebuilding or replacing an air compressor for the 'normal' suspension failure; on the other hand if you hit a point where its compressor + air struts + valve blocks...now all the sudden doing it could make more sense.

I have no regrets about doing it, but it makes sense for my build, my application, and intended purpose. That is not a universal truth.
r-
Ray

 

[DiscoDavis]

Should be noted you won't be able to have the suspension perfectly leveled once its fully loaded. The EAS for me is fantastic for those trips when the rear levels itself after being loaded with several hundred pounds of gear.

Also for ~10 bucks you can just throw in switches that control certain fuses to avoid going to bump stops on the trail. I still think the coils are cool but I honestly would keep EAS. Struts are annoying to replace but it is actually well-designed.

 

[Ray_G]

I haven't noticed much sag when loaded up, at least not with the HD setup. I would agree that the self-leveling of EAS will be missed if I ever tow with mine; and if that is an intended application def keep the EAS.

The idea of putting in switches to bypass the fuses that you can pull (F3E, F26E, F35P...if memory serves me) strikes me as almost as absurd as building an interlocking system that shuts down when a brake light bulb goes out-the things we do in Land Rovers that other brands just wouldn't put up with!

 

[roverandom]

I haven't noticed much sag when loaded up, at least not with the HD setup. I would agree that the self-leveling of EAS will be missed if I ever tow with mine; and if that is an intended application def keep the EAS.

The idea of putting in switches to bypass the fuses that you can pull (F3E, F26E, F35P...if memory serves me) strikes me as almost as absurd as building an interlocking system that shuts down when a brake light bulb goes out-the things we do in Land Rovers that other brands just wouldn't put up with!

I did the Atlantic British kit some years ago. It has the OME HD lift springs. It's performed perfectly. Even loaded up with 7 people and a roof rack full of gear. Stock system is good if it's in good order but many LR3's are in the sub $10K value range and you need to decide for yourself if it's important to be able raise and lower the vehicle if the system breaks down.
In my opinion the LR3/4 RRS never articulated worth a damn anyway.

Gripes? well it's advertized as a +2" lift but it's more like 1". Thinking of making some spacers for the struts.

As an aside, polyurethane bushings and coil springs don't mix well.

My 2c.

 

[Ray_G]

I did the Atlantic British kit some years ago. It has the OME HD lift springs. It's performed perfectly. Even loaded up with 7 people and a roof rack full of gear. Stock system is good if it's in good order but many LR3's are in the sub $10K value range and you need to decide for yourself if it's important to be able raise and lower the vehicle if the system breaks down.
In my opinion the LR3/4 RRS never articulated worth a damn anyway.

Gripes? well it's advertized as a +2" lift but it's more like 1". Thinking of making some spacers for the struts.

As an aside, polyurethane bushings and coil springs don't mix well.

My 2c.

Your info was invaluable to my choice to go with AB. I have thought about strut spacers too-there are also a few different OEM spacers that seem like the coil LR3 version of trim packers from previous generations, up to 13mm, for a whopping $7.00 a piece. I have some back in the US I need to retrieve in an upcoming trip to try out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[DiscoDavis]

The idea of putting in switches to bypass the fuses that you can pull (F3E, F26E, F35P...if memory serves me) strikes me as almost as absurd as building an interlocking system that shuts down when a brake light bulb goes out-the things we do in Land Rovers that other brands just wouldn't put up with!

I get what you're saying, but its something that makes life a little easier.

F35P is useful to bypass if you are worried about a fault (cross articulation... or other) lowering the vehicle into or onto an obstacle (rocks/deep water, etc). A switch is the same thing as pulling the fuse but a little easier than popping the glovebox all the way down and then pulling the fuse out with tweezers. The usefulness of this is debatable yes but it is stupidly easy to add, and 100% reversible, I just have a switch in there if a need arises. Switch can be removed like a fuse, took 10 minutes to make.

Now the F26E is the master power route for the EAS to communicate with everything else. I put a switch on that fuse because I need to kill any possibility of the suspension moving around on me while I jack the vehicle OR while I am working under it. There has been a few times where it has moved (adjusted) on me while I was around it, and even though your glovebox book might say it won't move with a door open... it definitely will do. I was lucky enough that it was on stands but still unnerving. Again, it was super easy with some help figuring out which switch powers what, but I appreciate having that extra bit of security if I'm getting under the truck to do anything. I just pop the hood and hit the toggle switch. No need to go popping the two plastic covers off of everything and then pulling the fuse. Plus I didn't want to wear the fuse or socket repeatedly pulling them and reinserting.

Call me crazy but hey it works just fine :smiley_drive:

 

[perkj]

F35P is useful to bypass if you are worried about a fault (cross articulation... or other) lowering the vehicle into or onto an obstacle (rocks/deep water, etc). A switch is the same thing as pulling the fuse but a little easier than popping the glovebox all the way down and then pulling the fuse out with tweezers. The usefulness of this is debatable yes but it is stupidly easy to add, and 100% reversible, I just have a switch in there if a need arises. Switch can be removed like a fuse, took 10 minutes to make.

Curious as to how made the switch

 

[DiscoDavis]

Curious as to how made the switch

I will get some images up and been meaning to do a separate thread on the topic. The short is: ATO size "add-a-circuit" thing that makes one fuse slot two, which allows you to wire a switch into that fuse while keeping a fuse in that circuit (safer), 5 dollar toggle switch from amazon (the ones with round threading at the switch are great because you can mount them to round holes in thin stuff like sheet metal or plastic panels, and can add rubber cap to it for good weather protection ), some 600V wiring (I just tried to use good-enough wire to avoid problems), some wire end caps that are two pronged and thin enough blades to go in one end of the fuse socket, and a multimeter to make sure you have everything routed correctly. Plus some random HF shrink wrap tubing to make it look a little better/ protect the exposed wiring.

I used a rocker for one and a toggle for the other (had different switch types lying around). You can see them in person some time since you live nearby :snorkel:

 

[perkj]

thanks for the description. I would like to see a couple of pictures of how you have this wired to the add-a-circuit as I'm not quite getting how you add the switch in and still have it fused.

 

[DiscoDavis]

Basically you use the thing so that you can wire to one of the main fuse slots on the device, so that you make it one circuit while ensuring you use the accessory fuse slot as the functioning fuse for your new switch/circuit. This was a mock-up during testing.

 

[perkj]

makes sense now....thanks!!!