LR3 owners sound off, which tires?

perkj

Explorer
That's a great summary on the 3 different brands. The thing that's crazy to me is how expensive the Terrafirma sliders are (~$1100) for not as much protection and aluminum vs. the Tactical Rovers sliders (~$1300) that go all the way to the frame and are made of steel.

I keep going back and forth on which ones I think I need, like you did as well. I don't do any major rock crawling (not many in the South), but have taken it out on some pretty decent trails and the last thing I want is to get hung up on a big rock or obstacle while out on a long weekend expedition and get body damage.

Do you feel pretty confident in your Terrafirma sliders protecting the body from most obstacles and can they handle the weight of the truck if you get hung up on something?

I think you need to view it this way, anything can happen on any trail and you want to ensure you have all critical components protected. cracking the air tank or compressor is going to leave you in bad shape....these need to be protected. I'll let you guess which version I went with...its not on the list but one them is a near copy of mine.
 
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Bama4door

Observer
I think you need to view it this way, anything can happen on any trail and you want to ensure you have to critical components protected. cracking the air tank or compressor is going to leave you in bad shape....these need to be protected. I'll let you guess which version I went with...its not on the list but one them is a near copy of mine.

Yea that's a great point. I think the compressor is especially prone to damage. What sliders did you go with? Only other ones I can think of is Voyager, and I don't think they go all the way to the frame to protect tank/compressor.
 

nwoods

Expedition Leader
Aluminum as a material is more than steel and the welding techniques differ, as does smoothing out the joints and so forth. I think generally welded aluminum is more labor intensive, thus the costs.

However, if you are in the rocks a fair amount, steel performs much better because it slides over rock, whereas the grain in aluminum causes it to "hang up" on rocks. Not ideal.
 

perkj

Explorer
Yea that's a great point. I think the compressor is especially prone to damage. What sliders did you go with? Only other ones I can think of is Voyager, and I don't think they go all the way to the frame to protect tank/compressor.

Mine are Rover Specialties....I suspect Tactical used them as the design base for their as they are nearly identical except the RS have round tube and the TRs have square. RS is no longer in business.
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39212734002_large.jpg
 

JC in BC

New member
Hey All,

Time to put tires on my new-to-me LR3 (LR3 Tire Decision Time thread). As noted in that thread, my toughest application for my LR3 will be driving snowy/icy roads on incline/decline for early and late season backcountry ski access. I think I've talked myself into the need for tire chains, at least as an emergency backup. I do want a fresh AT tire on the truck as well, leaning towards BFG KO2 (265/60r18 OR 265/65R18 sizes, E load rating, Severe snow rated, available at my local Costco for a good price). I've found Super Z6 tire chains that only require 6mm (1/4") of clearance (not sure if that needs to be doubled to 1/2" for safe clearance?). Trying to decide between the 265/60r18 and the 265/65r18 tire size. 65 (31.56") with chains would seem similar to the 275/65r18 size (32.1"), albeit any rubbing would be coming from the chain, not a rubber tire, so a bit sensitive there.

I will run the IID tool for extra lift when using the chains in snowy conditions, also would only be limited use, at slow speeds, and likely no full articulations (doubt snow-wheeling over tough terrain would be successful in any config). Do you guys think I can get away with the 265/65r18's then (mimicking the 32.1" size with chains on)? Or should I play it safe and go with the 265/60r18 and not have to think about clearance issues.

Also, thinking about the spare, what PSI would I have to have the 265/65r18's to fit under the LR3? I suppose I'd need more than my little 12v compressor to fill it up in a pinch (could throw in a bike pump as backup, extra fuses too). Any ideas on where to get an extra rim for the spare (which is currently not the full size spare/rim on the LR3). Could I get away with the original/small size spare if I went 265/60r18 to allow me to limp down a trail and get towed home from there? What about 265/65r18, adding a 5th tire and extra rim is probably a $400 proposition, whereas I already pay for and get free roadside assistance/towing. And those KO2's look pretty darn tough, should do just fine for my moderate use. Much to think about, looking forward to the forums input.
 

DiscoDavis

Explorer
Also, thinking about the spare, what PSI would I have to have the 265/65r18's to fit under the LR3? I suppose I'd need more than my little 12v compressor to fill it up in a pinch (could throw in a bike pump as backup, extra fuses too). Any ideas on where to get an extra rim for the spare (which is currently not the full size spare/rim on the LR3). Could I get away with the original/small size spare if I went 265/60r18 to allow me to limp down a trail and get towed home from there? What about 265/65r18, adding a 5th tire and extra rim is probably a $400 proposition, whereas I already pay for and get free roadside assistance/towing. And those KO2's look pretty darn tough, should do just fine for my moderate use. Much to think about, looking forward to the forums input.

Roverland parts has a few extra wheels for OK prices, otherwise go to the LR forums. Not too hard to find full size
 

JC in BC

New member
Roverland parts has a few extra wheels for OK prices, otherwise go to the LR forums. Not too hard to find full size

Rover parts does have, but $395 USD+tax and shipping, for the matching 5 spoke wheel, ouch. I guess I'll start a hunt elsewhere. Otherwise a spare wheel and tire will cost almost as much as the set of 4 installed, bummer.
 

Jwestpro

Explorer
I've found Super Z6 tire chains that only require 6mm (1/4") of clearance (not sure if that needs to be doubled to 1/2" for safe clearance?). Trying to decide between the 265/60r18 and the 265/65r18 tire size. 65 (31.56") with chains would seem similar to the 275/65r18 size (32.1"), albeit any rubbing would be coming from the chain, not a rubber tire, so a bit sensitive there.

I will run the IID tool for extra lift when using the chains in snowy conditions, also would only be limited use, at slow speeds, and likely no full articulations (doubt snow-wheeling over tough terrain would be successful in any config). Do you guys think I can get away with the 265/65r18's then (mimicking the 32.1" size with chains on)? Or should I play it safe and go with the 265/60r18 and not have to think about clearance issues.

Also, thinking about the spare, what PSI would I have to have the 265/65r18's to fit under the LR3? I suppose I'd need more than my little 12v compressor to fill it up in a pinch (could throw in a bike pump as backup, extra fuses too). Any ideas on where to get an extra rim for the spare (which is currently not the full size spare/rim on the LR3). Could I get away with the original/small size spare if I went 265/60r18 to allow me to limp down a trail and get towed home from there? .

Few things out of order:

NO, you cannot use a different diameter tire to "limp home" Well, you "can" but absolutely "shouldn't" Read up on lr3 4wd system. You could get away with diff size front to rear in a pinch but same axle bad idea.

No amount of lift is going to fix the chain/tire size clearance issue. I'm not sure you are looking at the upper A arm and thinking clearly about it. That is the tight spot and it will rub the chains without a spacer on any tire much wider than stock. In fact, what you are totally missing, which is understandable because it's counter-intuitive, is that the higher you extend the air suspension, the TIGHTER that clearance point becomes! You can watch it on a tire shop lift. or measure in driveway. So, IIDtool, rods, or LLAMS, will decrease that gap as you lift up.

Your best bet is to retain the ability to "tuck" the wheel/tire/chain shape into the fender/wheel well as it was designed to be done. This is best done with the narrowest tire you can put on. Now, who wants a narrow AT tire, looks anemic.... I use 275/65x18 bfg for summer, same size Michelin highway-ish tire 90% of the time, and a true winter Nokian for winter on it's own wheels.

Thos chains you mention ought to fit just barely on the 265/65x18 but maybe for sure on the 265/60x18, but is there an E load in the 265/60 ?

Unless I missed it, you have not made the fender liner mods correct? If not, those will be the issue under any articulation with chains on. Lifts don't remove articulation issues. A 32" tire will even scrub the rear inner fender liner "bulge" on the highway if you go through deep swells in the roadway at 80 mph with heavy load. It's brief, but it can happen. Chains would make quick work of the fender liner whereas a tire will just scrub the first 10-20 times slowly wearing the plastic away.

If you like dedicated snows, the Nokian LT is in 275/65x18 and studded ;)
 

NYCRover

Observer
Few things out of order:

Thos chains you mention ought to fit just barely on the 265/65x18 but maybe for sure on the 265/60x18, but is there an E load in the 265/60 ?
If you like dedicated snows, the Nokian LT is in 275/65x18 and studded ;)

BFG KO2s come in E load in a 265/60. I just ordered them for my LR4
 

JC in BC

New member
Thanks Jwestpro, I will prudently get the matching spare regardless of my choice. As NYC rover points out the 265/60r18 KO2 is indeed E load rated.

Those super z6 chains are super low profile, nothing in the inner edge of the tire, I'm pretty confident they will fit without issues on the 265/60r18, but doesn't sound promising with the 265/65's so I think I've made my decision! Thanks all for your assistance. I will share feedback on how it goes and some snowy trip reports t
 

dragoman

New member
ZEON LTZ QUESTION. Hi, could anyone give me advice on the Zeon LTZ 285/60 18" ...... do they fit without the need for wheel spacers? my standard 255/60 18" tires seem quite close to the suspension already.
 

A.J.M

Explorer
I run LT285/60R18 Grabber AT2's on my LR4. (with spacer to accommodate LR3 wheels) During a recent R&B the tech was amazed at the tread depth for the miles on them.

What spacer size did you use?

I'm trying to go the Expo LR4 route with using D3 SE wheels on my car, but i have the RRS 4 pot Brembo's which have the same size disc as the LR4 V8. I'm trying to figure out how much of a difference the callipers size are and if i can get away with 18s and spacers.
 
COOPER DISCOVERER STT PRO™ LT255/75R17

This is what is going on my rig when my 17" wheel conversion is done.

Sticking with skinny pizza cutters and taller side wall. I get fat when I air down! :smiley_drive::REExeSquatsHL1:

COOPER
DISCOVERER STT PRO™
LT265/70R17

cooper-discoverer-stt-pro-group-large.jpg
 
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zelatore

Explorer
I've had my STT Pros on for almost a year now and maybe 8K miles. I'm happy with them. Good durability in rocks, good clearing in mud. OK on the street, though they are louder and cost me a little mpg over the Duratracs they replaced. They're also pretty heavy. Not very good in snow, but that's typical of most MT tires and probably not too high on your needs list anyway. I haven't had a chance to try them in sand but I'm expecting they won't be great there - they'll probably want to dig more than float.
 

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