I've found Super Z6 tire chains that only require 6mm (1/4") of clearance (not sure if that needs to be doubled to 1/2" for safe clearance?). Trying to decide between the 265/60r18 and the 265/65r18 tire size. 65 (31.56") with chains would seem similar to the 275/65r18 size (32.1"), albeit any rubbing would be coming from the chain, not a rubber tire, so a bit sensitive there.
I will run the IID tool for extra lift when using the chains in snowy conditions, also would only be limited use, at slow speeds, and likely no full articulations (doubt snow-wheeling over tough terrain would be successful in any config). Do you guys think I can get away with the 265/65r18's then (mimicking the 32.1" size with chains on)? Or should I play it safe and go with the 265/60r18 and not have to think about clearance issues.
Also, thinking about the spare, what PSI would I have to have the 265/65r18's to fit under the LR3? I suppose I'd need more than my little 12v compressor to fill it up in a pinch (could throw in a bike pump as backup, extra fuses too). Any ideas on where to get an extra rim for the spare (which is currently not the full size spare/rim on the LR3). Could I get away with the original/small size spare if I went 265/60r18 to allow me to limp down a trail and get towed home from there? .
Few things out of order:
NO, you cannot use a different diameter tire to "limp home" Well, you "can" but absolutely "shouldn't" Read up on lr3 4wd system. You could get away with diff size front to rear in a pinch but same axle bad idea.
No amount of lift is going to fix the chain/tire size clearance issue. I'm not sure you are looking at the upper A arm and thinking clearly about it. That is the tight spot and it will rub the chains without a spacer on any tire much wider than stock. In fact, what you are totally missing, which is understandable because it's counter-intuitive, is that the higher you extend the air suspension, the TIGHTER that clearance point becomes! You can watch it on a tire shop lift. or measure in driveway. So, IIDtool, rods, or LLAMS, will decrease that gap as you lift up.
Your best bet is to retain the ability to "tuck" the wheel/tire/chain shape into the fender/wheel well as it was designed to be done. This is best done with the narrowest tire you can put on. Now, who wants a narrow AT tire, looks anemic.... I use 275/65x18 bfg for summer, same size Michelin highway-ish tire 90% of the time, and a true winter Nokian for winter on it's own wheels.
Thos chains you mention ought to fit just barely on the 265/65x18 but maybe for sure on the 265/60x18, but is there an E load in the 265/60 ?
Unless I missed it, you have not made the fender liner mods correct? If not, those will be the issue under any articulation with chains on. Lifts don't remove articulation issues. A 32" tire will even scrub the rear inner fender liner "bulge" on the highway if you go through deep swells in the roadway at 80 mph with heavy load. It's brief, but it can happen. Chains would make quick work of the fender liner whereas a tire will just scrub the first 10-20 times slowly wearing the plastic away.
If you like dedicated snows, the Nokian LT is in 275/65x18 and studded
