Lucky 8’s Project P38

[Stewart_RR]

Thank you for the kind words my friend.
We could've also used the KAM differential. But I needed some real world experience with the Ashcroft ABT.

After a terrible (and long) nightmare with a faulty head gasket I getting anxious with reuniting with my RR with full capabilities restaured and was wondering about the snorkle. Since there are no news I will asked more about your opinion about the KAM win palacofr we cant decide between ascroft and KAM. Can you expand your opionion about the KAM?
Regards

 

[TonKa33]

Congrats on finishing build. Now please do my 98 for me lol Really stunning looking, driving, P38.

 

[Fivespddisco]

After a terrible (and long) nightmare with a faulty head gasket I getting anxious with reuniting with my RR with full capabilities restaured and was wondering about the snorkle. Since there are no news I will asked more about your opinion about the KAM win palacofr we cant decide between ascroft and KAM. Can you expand your opionion about the KAM?
Regards

The snorkel is done but we are having an issue supplying the tops. Please give me a few more weeks.
I ran the KAM units on our project unicorn and the Terrafirma D2. I like the KAM units, unfortunately they are very labor intensive to install.

 

[Fivespddisco]

Really stunning looking, driving, P38.

Thank you

 

[Fivespddisco]

Project Update : Pop goes the ?

Have you ever heard a drive line noise that you instantly knew was catastrophic? I did at VOT last year and the Rhino appeared to be lacking FWD.



Once the truck was free from the obstacle everything worked fine. I just scratched my head and went on for the next 2 days of the trip.



Pic nicked from Bryon Dorr


I heard this gut wrenching noise again at Rovers on the Rocks. I was positive there was no FWD. We jacked up the truck to test it and … Nothing. Everything worked as it should. Again I found myself scratching my head.



Back at the shop we pull the CVs, Diff and 1/2 shafts. Yep you guessed it





Unfortunately the next thing was the T-case and out it came. There was a ton of metal shavings in the fluid.



One of the bearings was completely shot but this would not account for the lack of FWD.



Hoping against all odds that the welded center viscous was still good, I popped it open and found
.
.
.
.
.
this.



The end result was some of the teeth on the spider gears snapped off.



As the broken teeth bounced around the viscous unit it would spontaneously lose FWD. We maybe asking to much from the T-case but I'm going to give it another college try with a welded center.

Thats all for now, enjoy the frosty poser pic.

 

[Ray_G]

Wow...unfortunate for the significant damage but also I wonder how long that truck had been running with that much damage (i.e. since Rainforest Mtn or what have you). Does show just how resilient and robust these trucks can be.
r-
Ray

 

[JALinker]

Now to start looking for a p38 of my very own...

...there is a decent-looking '99 near by, is there a significant enough difference in '99/'00/'01/'02 to negate my original plan of trying to find, specifically, an '02?

 

[R-Overland]

Yes, a bigger price and possibly less mileage on the odo. Also , chances are it has a obselete NAV system.

 

[spikemd]

Now to start looking for a p38 of my very own...

...there is a decent-looking '99 near by, is there a significant enough difference in '99/'00/'01/'02 to negate my original plan of trying to find, specifically, an '02?

There isn't much difference between 99 and 02, just some interior upgrades, wheels, etch. All have 4 wheel traction control and Bosch electronics. I feel I got lucky with mine and feel it is the 'best' P38. 2001 SE. It has no GPS (which sucks on the P38) and leaves the screen area open for cupholders, no chrome on the outside, less wood to get scratched on the inside and 16 inch wheels rather than 18s for more tire choices.

I would recommend 4.6 over the 4.0 and they stopped making 4.0s in 2000, I think. Try to find a low mileage, clean truck with records. Look at lots of them and price has no bearing on 'quality' of the truck. And try to stay away from the P38s on 22's

A decent guide with a few things to check for: http://www.mez.co.uk/p38.html

Check EAS (air suspension) thoroughly if you plan go keep it. If you are building a trail rig, then strongly consider springs.

 

[Fivespddisco]

Now to start looking for a p38 of my very own...

...there is a decent-looking '99 near by, is there a significant enough difference in '99/'00/'01/'02

99 is a split year. It can have a GEMS or Bosch motor among other updates. I would try to get a Bosch version.

 

[spikemd]

Ouch on the transfer case situation. Hopefully, you can get her back on the trail soon.

Snorkel updates?

 

[Stewart_RR]

I´m so happy for the news pics and updates!
I was beggining to get frustrated visiting this thread with no updates. I´ll check right away your impression on de KAM, thanks justin.
Of course I´ll wait for the snorkel news it would be the last change on my p38, I´ll probably do it in November. This month I finally take the step foward terrafirma shocks and Arnott gen 3. Protections would be install this weekend (I hope!)

 

[Fivespddisco]

Snorkel updates?

Of course I´ll wait for the snorkel news (I hope!)

They are done but we are still waiting for the top. I am also looking for another source for the top.

 

[Fivespddisco]

Lucky8's Project P38 Update : Been gone too long

First off, sorry for the lack in updates but I think this post will make a few people happy.

Snorkel

Say it with me S N O R K E L



Finally all the pieces are done and ready to go. So without further adieu, here is what it takes to do the install.

Put the template on the hood.



Mark the cut out portion with a scribe.



Remove the hood and cut the unwanted section out.



Remove the fender and inner fender plastic mud guard.
Put the template on and cut the unwanted section out.



Notch out the pillar trim piece to make room for the snorkel tube mounting tabs.



Align the notches with the upper existing screw hole. Use a self tapping screw to mount the bottom tab.





Remove the air box from the engine bay



Remove the trumpet nose section



File down the tabs on the inner trumpet section for removal.



Remove inner trumpet section



Clean out the air box and seal all the factory drain holes with RTV



Cut the outer ring off of the internal trumpet section




Generously apply RTV to the end of the internal trumpet piece and slide on the PVC hose.



Slide the PVC hose through the old air intake opening. Take care not to cut the PVC hose on the inner fender.




Generously apply RTV to the end of the internal trumpet piece and slide it back into the air box. Seal the remaining holes with RTV.



Generously apply RTV to the end of the snorkel in the fender well and slide on the PVC hose. Drill a 1/4 hole and attach the PVC hose clamp to the inside of the fender. Tuck the PVC hose above the inner fender plastic mud guard



The inner fender plastic mud guard will have to be reworked to make room for the PVC hose.



Use a heat gun on the inner fender plastic mud guard to bend it back into place.




Install the rubber trim pieces on the hood and fender cut off sections.



Lastly, generously apply RTV to the snorkel top and install.



Let me know what you guys think. The poser pic here is the stock truck that gave up a hood and fender for testing purposes.

 

[Stewart_RR]

Excelllent!
I´m still having 2nd thoughts about installing it but, certainly buying your would be the way to go.