Lucky8’s Project Discovery 3

A.J.M

Explorer
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152187619061

Set of 5 with tyres. You won't find a set of 17 steels for anywhere near that. Although I have seen them a lot cheaper than £50 each with tyre.
Carriers are about £25 per pair. So £50.
Discs are as expensive or cheap as you like.

Then you can run the tyre you want on them.
You can even store them at mine till you sort shipping if you want. I offered to help another US member with getting a set a while ago.
 
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morrisdl

Adventurer
Id be up for a set. Would be more economical to ship a pallet full of them.

The price might be double, but still worth checking to see if the US LR dealers can source these. Anyone know the part number for the 17" wheel?
 
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152187619061

Set of 5 with tyres. You won't find a set of 17 steels for anywhere near that. Although I have seen them a lot cheaper than £50 each with tyre.
Carriers are about £25 per pair. So £50.
Discs are as expensive or cheap as you like.

Then you can run the tyre you want on them.
You can even store them at mine till you sort shipping if you want. I offered to help another US member with getting a set a while ago.


I'd totally be down for that offer. You know any reputable shipping companies/methods from there?

Pm sent.
 

Fivespddisco

Supporting Sponsor
No traction No action

Project LR3 update.
Next on the adventure schedule was Guy Fawkes; say it with pride or say it with disdain, either way, remember the 5th of November. Howard Smith puts on a Guy Fawkes event, "Bash" as he calls it. One weekend a year as close as he can get to November 5th, Howard holds the event on his farm. If you are lucky enough to get an invite I recommend attending. His property is multi-level and usually slippery as all hell. Our goal every year is to make it up to the top level and drive through the cattail swamp. The last few years have been dry and easy to navigate. Although, this year was anything but easy. All looked well at the bottom level.

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By the time I got to the second level things were getting a bit tricky. The autumn leaves combined with my favorite East Coast condition, "duck snot mud", made going in any direction you chose more of an option than a command.

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If the ground in that picture looks level you would be correct. As far as the traction coefficient was concerned we were on the side of Everest. Have a look at this next picture. I was driving on glazed donuts. The only thing that was acting as traction aids were the decomposing leaves.

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With some winching and a lot of skinny pedal, we finally made it to the top level. Just for reference, it wasn't any drier up there either. I was actually in a tiny bit of luck because other people had managed to get through the cattail swamp. A lot of the "duck snot mud" was pushed off to the side and a clear path was beaten down. Once again the independent suspension became a fantastic asset.

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I'd like to say that the LR3 ripped its way through the muddy swamp. I'd love to say that I was the master of the mud but, in all honesty, the only thing that earned its keep was the; red winch.

After the winching across the cattail swamp, it was time for the descent. Normally this isn't a big deal, BUT, (that's a large "But", no offense to the LR3's large bottom intended) there was no stopping this 6000-pound bobsled. A few times I needed to be winched down a hill from another truck that was anchored to a tree. I wish I had some pictures; instead of taking photos I was trapped inside the truck with my buttocks trying to inhale the driver seat. The first little descent I was on ended with me using a small tree for brakes because the LR3's brakes were absolutely useless.

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That was a little precursor of why I should upgrade to a full steel bumper instead of the hidden winch mount. Dont get me wrong the hidden winch mount is slick and fits in the truck perfectly but when the rough stuff starts to show its ugly face it's nice to know you can bang into a large object without risking the destruction of a $1500 headlight. I got lucky on this one. The tree was small and the bumper was able to absorb the impact. A little bit larger tree and a little bit more speed would've been a costly mistake on my part.

I don't have a poser pic for this update but here's a fantastic picture of how muddy the "duck snot" was.

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Fivespddisco

Supporting Sponsor
Project update : Washer Relocation

This will be a quick one.

I need to address the tree incident at Guyfawks. Clearly a steel bumper in the front of the LR3 was necessary. In the past there were only a few options available and they all decreased the approach angle. When you're in a "heavy use" situation adding 10 inches the front of the truck quickly becomes a large disadvantage. At the time the Platinum was the best option because the approach angle remained the same.
For those of you that want the cliff notes to this project build we are currently running the Proud Rhino bumper now and could not be happier.

https://www.lucky8llc.com/collections/bumpers-3/products/proud-rhino-lr3-front-bumper

Now lets get to the useful part. Most aftermarket LR3 bumpers need a washer bottle relocation kit because the factory washer bottle hangs almost down to the street. When you remove the front bumper cover you will see the plastic monstrosity.

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Our relocation kit uses a Defender washer bottle. I always got a kick out of that for some reason. I'm sure there's different washer bottle you can put in there but we always have the Defender one in stock and it works amazingly.

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The original washer bottle was located directly below the drivers headlight and this is where all of the plumbing and electrical connections are. I have found directly behind the drivers side headlight to be the most convenient place to install the new washer bottle.


This is a quick step by step on how we install the bottle.

Set the washer bottle In and mark where you're going to drill two holes to hold it in place.

View attachment 388255


Below you will see where I've drilled two holes to accommodate my bolts. I used some long 10 mm bolts we had in the shop but in theory you could use almost anything. A simple 1/4 - 20 Rod would hold it in place.

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I put the bolts through and lock them in the place with a nut. This side is fairly easy with plenty of access.

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Next, you need to slide the bolt through opening and then do some ninja work to get a wrench in there to hold it in place while you tighten the nut down. It's a little more of a hassle to get to but it's doable. I did a quick test fit to make sure I had everything in the right place. Then I put on a washer and nut to use as a stopper/jam to provide the washer bottle with a backstop. This will help while you put a nut on the other side to lock it into position.

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Here's the tricky part. You need to use a stepper bit to drill a hole in the bottom of the washer bottle. This hole needs to be the exact size as the original hole in the factory washer bottle.

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Take special care when deciding the location to drill the hole. It needs to be closer to the front of the truck in order for the washer motor to have room once the bottle is in its final location. Also, the large washer motor will do both front and rear windows. You only need to drill one hole.

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Unfortunately, I didn't take any pictures of this next step but you will need to plug the two factory holes in the new washer bottle. I normally use RTV with washers, nuts, and bolts. I'll try to take a picture next time we do one in the shop and update this project.

OK back to it


Put everything in place and tighten down with another nut and washer

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And there you have it. The bottle will hold almost a gallon. It's bigger than you think!

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And here's a quick poser picture from Rovers on the Rocks way back when....

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