M101CDN Trailer mods

PCRover

Adventurer
After receiving several requests for more information on how the cover was constructed for my M101CDN trailer, I decided to put together this write up.

Originally I had planned on welding the frame pieces together but my welding skills are lacking so I went with something I am more capable of, Nuts and Bolt assembly. The frame is made from 7 pieces of 1" x 1" square steel stock. There are 5 pieces 48" long and 2 pieces 74" long. The layout is fairly simple with 2 48" pieces and two 74" pieces making up the perimeter with mitered corners. The other 3 48" pieces form cross supports. The frame pieces were cleaned, primed, and painted with a Satin Flat Black paint.

Top_frame.JPG



Top_corner.JPG



Everything is held together by Stanley Heavy Duty corner braces and 1/4-20 bolts and nuts. There are 4 hinges on one side that fasten to one side of the frame and the lip of the trailer. I used removable hinges as my planned usage of the trailer includes utility hauling, but any hinge with the appropriate dimensions should work.

hinges.jpg


The frame is covered with 1/8" PVC plastic sheet. I PVC plastic for weight consideration and durability as it doesn't dent and when it gets scratched it stays white. Sheet metal or aluminum could certainly be used in place of it. The PVC sheet is held in place with Silicone seal and the base rails of the Thule Rack System kep it secure. I was planning on using sheet metal screws around the perimeter of the frame to help hold the plastic sheet down, but found them not necessary so far. To stop moisture and dust from seeping between the cover frame and the trailer lip I installed 1" wide x 1/4" thick rubber seal on the underside of the covers exterior frame. This weather strippng gets compressed when the cover is closed and does a good job of sealing out moisture and dust.

Rubber weatherstripping like this can be found at just about any local building supply retailer.
weatherstripping.jpg


Since I was planning on mounting a Roof Top Tent on my trailer top I decided it would be wise to add some Gas Springs to assist in lifting the cover. I estimated the total weight to be in the 200lb range so having assistance to open the cover is a good idea. The first location of the Springs I tried did not work well as the weight of the tent caused some sagging of the frame. I relocated the springs further out on the frame and everything worked as I hoped it would.

This picture is of the original mounting location and since has been changed to the exterior also.
gas_springs.JPG


The Gas Springs used are from McMaster-Carr and have a gas pressure of 125lbs. The current spring location and gas pressure will support the weight of the cover and tent keeping it open when lifted to the springs maximum extension. If a tent is not planned then a lower pressure spring should be used. I have two sets of springs so I can change them depending on what my current application is. The springs are located on the outside as shifting trailer loads cold damage or displace them if located on the interior.

This is the end brackets used for securing the gas Springs.
springbracket.jpg


Currently I have simple hasps holding the cover closed and also allowing it to be padlocked. My plans are to install these spring latches which will keep a constant closing force on the cover.

drawlatch2.jpg


The overall theme of to this trailer is multipurpose so I wanted to have a versatile cargo mounting system. By using the Thule System on the cover I can mount just about anything one might want to take with them. Bikes, Additional Cargo Carriers, Cargo basket, a small boat or canoe, etc...

TrailerwithTent-1.JPG


I chose an Overland Roof Top Tent from AutoHome as it is a well constructed tent that was readily available.

Trailer_with_tent.JPG


I welcome comments and ideas on how the building of the cover might have been done different and on what possible changes and or additions that could be made to it.


This post is directed mainly at the cover and its construction. I will continue to post to this thread as the build out of the trailer continues and I search for ideas and solutions for it.
 
Last edited:

+ d

Adventurer
:bowdown:
McMaster-Carr!


My only suggestion would be to perhaps Loctite all those bolted connections? Seems like with use the top will be flexing a bit and things could work their way loose. Especially since the top is on with silicone there is a bit of give to your shear panel. Once you get everything settled you could just take it somewhere and have a friend throw some quick beads on there with a Tig welder...you already did all the hard work!
 

60seriesguy

Adventurer
I like it, a LOT. Very functional, well thought out, and LIGHT, which makes things a lot easier.

I'm curious, do you ever have cargo interfere with the shocks?

Nice choice on the tent, too!
 

Scott Brady

Founder
Clean and functional. Have you been able to find matching hubs for the DII? How is the pintle on the trail/highway? I have heard of people putting large diameter rubber heater hose around the ID to prevent the rattling, etc.
 

BajaXplorer

Adventurer
Gary,
Thanks for doing the great write-up. Alas, I am no welder either. So, I will cut the top as you did, but will try to find someone to weld it before I go the nut and bolt route. I have an Eezi-Awn due for delivery from Pangaea and plan to mount it on the lid as well. However, I don't plan to carry anything other than the tent on the lid so I will probably mount directly to and through the lid cross braces. Thanks again for sharing the build information.
BX
Couple pix of my trailer.
 

Attachments

  • b910.jpg
    b910.jpg
    34.1 KB · Views: 244
  • db73.jpg
    db73.jpg
    44.8 KB · Views: 273
  • 8ed3.jpg
    8ed3.jpg
    40.8 KB · Views: 299

PCRover

Adventurer
My only suggestion would be to perhaps Loctite all those bolted connections? Seems like with use the top will be flexing a bit and things could work their way loose.

Good call, I did not think of using loctite. I considered nylock nuts, but decided to go straight lockwashers and nuts. If things start to loosen up, I have those two options to go to.

I'm curious, do you ever have cargo interfere with the shocks?

Never loaded it with the springs on the inside, they went to the outside before actually using it.

Great write up on the lid. So how much did the set-up cost you?

Around $3k so far including tent.


Have you been able to find matching hubs for the DII? How is the pintle on the trail/highway? I have heard of people putting large diameter rubber heater hose around the ID to prevent the rattling, etc.

Yes, I have DII compatible hubs on it now. The lugs are smaller in diameter, but the wheels still fit proper on there.

So far the Pintle is great, not much noise at all. Actually I think the little noise I get is from slop in the receiver pin. I have a true Pintle only hitch on the DII that fits much tighter than the combo Pintel/Ball type. Thanks for the tip on the hose, I'll consider it if noise ever becomes an issue.

I will cut the top as you did, but will try to find someone to weld it before I go the nut and bolt route.

I was in a hurry as I usually am so went with what I could get done. I have since received and offer from a welder to help me out. If any issues come up with the brackets, I 'll get it welded up.
 
Last edited:

PCRover

Adventurer
Trailer Water storage?

Anyone build and mount a water tank for there trailer? I was considering mounting something under the bed with a metal "skid plate" to protect it. The trailer tounge is to short to mount a tank up there and I want to keep the bed free of a permanent tank. Ideas? Comments?
 

60seriesguy

Adventurer
There are a couple of companies out there that will make a custom water tank out of plastic to your specs. I considered this after seeing Mike S.'s trailer, but they wanted to charge me over $500 for what would have ended being a 20 gallon tank...OUCH! So my next attempt will be using a commonly available tank to adapt it.

I've seen 3 or 4 different ex-mil trailers with water tanks underneath, seems like the logical place to mount them. I figured right above the axle is the logical place?:
 

Attachments

  • trailer extended tongue.jpg
    trailer extended tongue.jpg
    68.4 KB · Views: 411
  • DSC07038 (Small).JPG
    DSC07038 (Small).JPG
    61.3 KB · Views: 597

60seriesguy

Adventurer
Scott, with the right pintle hook, you won't get any significant noise, mine's OEM Toyota and it's got a pretty tight fit around the lunette.
 

PCRover

Adventurer
$500 is a little to much for a tank, I'll check around and see if there are any readily available that can be adapted to fit. Right above the axle is what I had in mind, there is plenty of room there.

Nice looking trailer! I like the cans and shovel on there, functional and a good look. Interesting place for the fridge, I like mine inside the truck where it stays clean and I can use it even if not pulling the trailer.

I need to finish up some minor details on my trailer then I'll move into the accessorizing phase with hopefully a water tank, jerry can holders, storage box, and who knows what else. The options are endless!
 

60seriesguy

Adventurer
PCRover said:
$500 is a little to much for a tank, I'll check around and see if there are any readily available that can be adapted to fit. Right above the axle is what I had in mind, there is plenty of room there.

Nice looking trailer! I like the cans and shovel on there, functional and a good look. Interesting place for the fridge, I like mine inside the truck where it stays clean and I can use it even if not pulling the trailer.

I need to finish up some minor details on my trailer then I'll move into the accessorizing phase with hopefully a water tank, jerry can holders, storage box, and who knows what else. The options are endless!

Tell me about it, I got a bunch of details in the hopper, I'm still waiting to get some parts. BTW, that's not a fridge, it's just a plain cooler! :)
 

PCRover

Adventurer
I found a few of sites with affordable tanks in sizes that should fit under the trailer bed.

Plastic-Mart

watertanks.com

tank-depot.com

Going to measure the trailer today and see what size will fit best. Here's a 20 gallon that might work for $107.00.

R-RV72W_full.jpg



What kind of support does a tank like this require?
Does it need a full size platform to sit on, or will some wide straps hold it?
 

Forum statistics

Threads
189,841
Messages
2,921,435
Members
233,030
Latest member
Houie

Members online

Top