M2 Freightliner Ambulance Conversion Project. 2007 Crew Cab

Ozrockrat

Expedition Leader
Well my troubles continue. I have been battling the oxygen thieves at the MVD again. Last trip (3rd trip) they told me that even though my truck is titled as a motorhome it is not a motorhome because it didn't have all the "stuff" in it. But when I got the "stuff" in it to bring it back and they would have a look and do the transfer.

So I finally got the "Stuff" (mostly) in and head up to the local asylum (MVD). Different set of oxygen thieves this time. "No sir you must take this to the Glendale facility. They are the only ones who can do a level 3 inspection to change the classification". My reply in a reasonably moderated voice "Well I know we speak a different version of English in Australia but since this (finger point) shows it is currently classed as a motorhome and I am trying to register it as a motorhome can you explain why a classification change is needed". The enlightened reply was "There is no use getting abusive sir" as they scampered back behind the locked door. :Wow1:

Now after a couple of minutes I picked my jaw up off the floor and calmly walked back to my vehicle and left. Experience has taught me that it is non productive engaging in a battle of the wits with an unarmed opponent. I also understand there may be a good and valid reason why my simple logic should be crushed by bureaucratic statutory "alternate facts".

So now I get to go to the "main" office, line up for an inspection, bide my time and pay my money to see if the "gods :bowdown:" of the MVD deem me worthy of reclassifying my motorhome into a motorhome. I am already starting to meditate expecting the "gods :bowdown:" to take one look at the title and say "you didn't need to come here this is already a motorhome!!". I promise I will just bite my tongue and go inside, grab my ticket and wait with the rest of the zombies. Because I am sure as hell not leaving there to go somewhere that I cannot say "go get rufus the inspector, he told me I didn't need a classification change".

FWIW last time I had to do one of these inspections and get a title change it took 5 hours.

And to top it off I cannot go on a Friday, they don't work Friday's and you need to be in the queue by 1PM as they close at 4.

OK rant off:violent-smiley-031:
 

rlrenz

Explorer
As the saying goes: "HI, I'm from the government - I'm here to help you!" You lie right back and say: "I'm glad to meet you...."
 

Ozrockrat

Expedition Leader
One outcome of the need to go and get an inspection done is that I have started to actually plan some of the major system changes. On this rig we are going away from having water storage in jugs to a full blown water, hot water, shower and sink setup. So we will have a "pure" potable water tank of 10 gallons, a domestic use fresh water tank and a gray water tank. The potable tank is already installed and functional with a 1 gpm pump and controlled by a momentary switch beside the faucet. But realistically 50 gallons is about the maximum fresh water we can carry. And showers chew up a lot of water. So I did a bit of googlefoo and came up with these items to help us conserve water.

The 1st is a thermostatic mixing valve for the shower and sink. Now these are common in Europe and Australia but the basic principle is set the temperature with one knob and the flow with the other knob. The benefit of having a constant temperate output is that you do not waste water setting up the shower/sink temperature (especially when someone turns on the other tap). And also you can just turn the flow on and off for the wet-soap-rinse cycles. Now I knew what I wanted but not having seen them over here in the US I was expecting them to cost at least an arm and maybe all the way up to a kidney. But I was pleasantly surprised to both find them available on Amazon Prime and less than $40 ea. Another bonus is the front mount as our walls are thick enough to fit the normal mixer valves.

The 2nd item is just a flow restricting aerator for the sink. Nothing too special except you can twist it around to set it at .5, 1 and 1.5 gpm. Again just to save a bit of water. And you guessed it, Amazon Prime and under $10.

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Ozrockrat

Expedition Leader
So now I need some schooling. I have never been that big a fan of PEX for campers. For my simple needs I have always used high pressure hoses and either good quality crimp clamps or stainless hose clamps. But now I will be pushing hot water around I am wondering if PEX may be the way to go. Mainly because there is a lot of support in the way of fittings and it can be color coordinated. I am still leaning towards the simplicity and maintainability of high pressure flexible hose and good hose clamps but if there is anyone who has good/bad experience with PEX I am willing to listen. So who is going to educate me on why I should use PEX??

Just for some background. No pipework will be leaving the cabin. It will all be enclosed either in the storage compartments or the walls. Some of it will need to go through a relatively convoluted path to get to where it needs to be. The hot water system will be an on demand system and probably diesel heated. Pump will be 2.8 gpm approximately. Longest runs will be 10'. I would still prefer to insulate the hotwater pipes if possible.
 

patoz

Expedition Leader
Bevan,

I ran into practically the same level of comprehension, or the lack there-of, when I was trying to find out what I needed to do to convert the registration from a full ambulance vehicle, to the trailer I turned it into. I made half a dozen phone calls to the Tag Office, who refereed me to the DMV, who refereed me back to the Tag Office, who sent me to another department of the DMV, etc, etc.

I finally drove to the DMV and found the 'other' office they were talking about. I tried for 30 minutes while standing at the counter, to explain what I wanted to do. I finally said, "Can we sit down somewhere so I can show you some paperwork?" I was carrying a briefcase full of documents, receipts, pictures, laws, regulations, State Statutes, and anything else I had been able to find on the subject.

Even after showing her all of that, she still couldn't grasp the concept until I finally showed her these two drawings...

Before...

Ambulance Before - enhanced.jpg


After...

Ambulance After - enhanced.jpg

As soon as she saw these, you could see the light bulb coming on over her head!

I guess it really is true, 'A picture is worth a thousand words'. In this case it was two pictures.
 
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rlrenz

Explorer
Interesting - we are both thinking the same. I'm installing a 9 gallon fresh water tank and a 9 gallon gray water tank in the bottom of Cabinet 1 (the old oxygen cabinet.) The tanks I decided on are 10" wide, 17" long, and 14" high, and will fit side by side with room for piping and valves. I also decided on a 2+ gallon per minute pump.
 

LowTech

Dirt Track Traveler
I have used pex in a build I did. I find it to be really simple to put together, and hard (but not impossible) to take apart.
As far as maintaining, never had needed to do any, unlike all the flex lines and clamps I used to connect the pex to things like the pump.

I think w/ the right fittings, the right tool (not that cheap), and pre-planning, pex goes in easy.

www.DirtTrackTravelers.com
 

rossvtaylor

Adventurer
Hey Bevan, I have had lots of PEX experience in my past life (plumbing everything from whole houses to remodels). It's amazing stuff and even frozen, it will expand without bursting. The fittings are a different matter... they may rupture, if frozen, just like any other fitting... so, I'd stay away from any plastic fittings. Stick with brass fittings and crimp rings or the expandable connectors. Or, the Sharkbites are amazing and quite reliable. You can go from PEX to copper tube with one of those. Very good connectors and I wouldn't hesitate to use PEX.
 

java

Expedition Leader
I also use PEX in homes. Its really good stuff. Like mentioned, it can freeze without issue. The expansion rings stay on (i DO NOT like the crimp on metal rings). I have not had issues with the plastic elbows/fittings, but brass is available as well.

Only down side to pex, its not very flexible.

I will be using pex in my truck, and will use stainless supply lines to connect to the fixtures.
 

tgreening

Expedition Leader
Well my troubles continue. I have been battling the oxygen thieves at the MVD again. Last trip (3rd trip) they told me that even though my truck is titled as a motorhome it is not a motorhome because it didn't have all the "stuff" in it. But when I got the "stuff" in it to bring it back and they would have a look and do the transfer.

:


Its amazing how absolutely thick-headed some people can be, especially in government offices.
This isn't on the same level but I wen to a McDs drive through once and tried to order a "2 hamburger meal deal".
"We don't have a 2 hamburger meal deal sir".
I'm looking at it on the screen, 2 burgers, fries, drink. Meal deal.
"We don't have a 2 hamburger meal deal sir".
I'm LOOKING at it. Number 1, burgers fries drink.
"We don't have a 2 hamburger meal deal sir. The number 1 is our 2 cheeseburger meal deal".
Give me a #1, hold the cheese.
"Thank you, that'll be $4.00"

ARGHHHHHH!!!!!
 

Joe Kickass

New member
I have had good results using color coded pex and sharkbite fittings to do some repairs on my son's motorhome. A little spendy, but has held up to the Colorado weather. (My son is 26 and not so great at winterizing, like his father.)
 

Ozrockrat

Expedition Leader
Well I ended up with 100' of red and blue PexA (apparently it is supposed to be more flexible. I agree that it is more flexible than schedule 80 but it's still a PITA to turn corners with). After 2 days of trying to run wiring and pipe work down the passengers side of the cabin I am about 3 days behind where I was. Everything has been a battle. This box has horizontal studs (actually noggins in Oz) every 12". The existing chases are too small and sharp. So I now have the side panel pulled as far as possible and (to retrieve one of my hole saws) along with a 1/4 hole through the outside wall which I cannot get a cable to so no exterior outlet will be going there.

As for the water lines. There is no way in hell that I can get PEX over the top from one side to the other. So it looks like I am going to have to go under the box with the associated hassle of exposing the pipe work to the cold. I was hoping to keep all pipework and tanks within the box.

Photos of the demolition results later.
 
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Ozrockrat

Expedition Leader
Why cant you just use 90's in the corners??

No access. I was trying to put the 90 braces on the corner. Slide them sort of sideways across the ceiling panel and get them to turn down when the got there. Stupid idea actually.
 

java

Expedition Leader
No access. I was trying to put the 90 braces on the corner. Slide them sort of sideways across the ceiling panel and get them to turn down when the got there. Stupid idea actually.

Ah I see, could you do the same thing with a 90? I guess if it wont slide across it wont do any good.
 

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