M416 Build to go behind my CJ
- Thread starter DonBeasley
- Start date
RKRUGER
Adventurer- Toyota Nut
Don, interesting to see we are both looking at doing some revisions. My youngest and I took a trip earlier this month far north into Manitoba. He spent quite a bit of time behind the wheel of the LC and through one wash on broken pavement, the combination of the wallow, a swerve and a light tongue led to the trailer hopping around and I thought it was going to flip. Thankfully Homer stayed shiny side up. We had dipped into the Jerry cans and had taken considerable weight off the front of the trailer.
Unlike your set up, I never built a tongue box but did add a spare tire on the rear. Pretty certain I am going to have to rethink the weight distribution. Scared my son enough that he gave up the wheel for the rest of the day.
Hope you don’t mind me adding a picture. Will be good to share some thoughts. It has been a long time since we met in that Bass Pro parking lot!
Unlike your set up, I never built a tongue box but did add a spare tire on the rear. Pretty certain I am going to have to rethink the weight distribution. Scared my son enough that he gave up the wheel for the rest of the day.
Hope you don’t mind me adding a picture. Will be good to share some thoughts. It has been a long time since we met in that Bass Pro parking lot!
Last edited:
DonBeasley
Adventurer
The folks that used to own the trailer company in AZ sold an adjustable bracket set that went on two corners and raised as needed. I believe it was was on trailer lid hinge side. Cannot find a picture but easy & clever design.
DonBeasley
Adventurer
DonBeasley
Adventurer
Glad to hear from you and picture of the trailer and all the work is great. I have always had to be careful of weight distribution on mine. A few times that I loaded too much weight south of the axle the trailer would start swaying badly or the front would raise too much on larger bumps. My tongue box helped as it was full of electronics and a group 31 agm 100ah battery. Your tire certainly makes you cautious weight balance.
The new battery box is laid out better but I am now using lithium batteries and they are lighter. I was able to use a shoehorn and some Vaseline and get two 100ah batteries in there but I have to take off the box latch if I want to take them out, LOL.
still just doing local runs to test all the rebuild work and the new electronics. Trying to get ready for 3 weeks in AZ, including 4 days at Havasupai Falls. This old age stuff sucks. I will attach some pictures in the next few weeks if it cools down. Or I could just fry eggs on the trailer lid (it is still black) and attach pics of that.
The new battery box is laid out better but I am now using lithium batteries and they are lighter. I was able to use a shoehorn and some Vaseline and get two 100ah batteries in there but I have to take off the box latch if I want to take them out, LOL.
still just doing local runs to test all the rebuild work and the new electronics. Trying to get ready for 3 weeks in AZ, including 4 days at Havasupai Falls. This old age stuff sucks. I will attach some pictures in the next few weeks if it cools down. Or I could just fry eggs on the trailer lid (it is still black) and attach pics of that.
Are you refering to turtle back trailers?
RKRUGER
Adventurer- Toyota Nut
@DonBeasley 200ah of lithium? Are you mining for bitcoin?!?! Are you set up to charge through the 7-pin connector or is charging the trailer through shore power only?
I have the ARB 50l in the back of the LC and a 27F AGM under the hood. I don’t need power in the trailer unless I could figure a way through an Anderson plug to have my dual battery set up in the trailer for longer boondocking sessions. It would need to charge off the LC and then it would be great to isolate the fridge to the trailer battery. That duality would be awesome.
I have the ARB 50l in the back of the LC and a 27F AGM under the hood. I don’t need power in the trailer unless I could figure a way through an Anderson plug to have my dual battery set up in the trailer for longer boondocking sessions. It would need to charge off the LC and then it would be great to isolate the fridge to the trailer battery. That duality would be awesome.
DonBeasley
Adventurer
I actually use shore power whenever I can but I also have solar. I went the “road less traveled” as always. I saw too many folding setups disappear when camping and hiking and owner not around. On top of that the folding ones are fairly expensive.
I tend to be cheap so I bought one residential solar panel @310W. It is about 39” wide and just under 72” in length so it is the last item I put in the trailer and first item I take out. The rebuild has me working on a bracket that will hold the panel on inside of lid and move up and down with lid. Will only have to remove as needed. BTW paid just under $100 for the panel. On back of panel is a taped chart for angle of panel to use and is based on season and location.
Yes I tend to overbuild. I run ARB 50qt. frig., a Propex heater in winter, 2 iphones. 2 iPads, charger for DJI Air 2 batteries, led lights in tent, Inreach, Weboost, GMRS & starting on Ham radio for truck/RTT. My better half just laughs and wants to know when my tracking satellite will go online!
So yes I like my two batteries.😂😂
Attachments
Johnny3
New member
I have a solution that I am about to undertake... it wont be for everyone but Ill share.
I bought my M416 in 2017. It was a dated restoration but in good shape. It had the previous owner's DIY flat steel lid, with a RTT mounted on it. I used it, as is for 5 years but, having stored it outside most of the time the steel hinges for the lid began to rust out. So I am completely rebuilding.
I decided a telescoping rack for the entire tent is the way to go. It will allow access to the tub even when the tent is open and create a sheltered area below (made bigger with a 270* awning). My vision for this is a rack base with 4, 36" sections of 2"x 2" steel tube that bolt to the trailer frame and travel upward through 4 holes in the upper section of the tub.
The rack will be 1.5" square steel tubing which nests in the base. Fully collapsed, including the height of the RTT (closed) it should be ~ 67" (which is 6" shorter than my tow vehicle). There will be 12" of overlap between the rack and the base, fully extended, with a raised rack height of about 73" (underneath).
I didn't want to run an open tub with all my gear in it, for a number of reasons... The solution will be to have a local boat canvas maker create a piece that installs over the rack posts, to be secured (during transport) using an integrated rope tethered to the original anchors around the perimeter of the tub.
I am going to start an original thread for the project soon... lets see how much work I get done this weekend.