Making a ifting roof on a 110
- Thread starter wuntenn
- Start date
Yes - I made backing plates out of 3mm alloy, drilled to match the steps and bolted them on the inside, so there is reinforcement in there. I've also used one longer bolt which I'm going to use to fasten the internal fittings to, which will keep the inside furniture secure, but also provide additional strength to the step. Without a backing plate it would rip off fairly quickly.
Another small step forwards today. Recycling the chunk of the alloy I cut out of the roof to make a protective/insulative cover for the water tank. I need some alloy angle and will pop rivet that along the corners and then weld up a steel cradle to support it, bolted into the inner wing on the passenger side. The water tank is plastic and will get a battering sitting just inside the wheel arch so the alloy complete with its 3/4" of closed cell foam will protect and insulate it. Seemed a shame not to try to use the 'offcuts' for something else.
Tank is a 'recycled' one - it was intended for some campervan or other and shaped to fit in a specific location so I'll need to adapt it slightly to sit where I want it - which will mean simply blocking off existing pipe holes and installing new fittings where I need them.
Tank is a 'recycled' one - it was intended for some campervan or other and shaped to fit in a specific location so I'll need to adapt it slightly to sit where I want it - which will mean simply blocking off existing pipe holes and installing new fittings where I need them.
Today's little bit of progress is a second pair of gas struts. The available space in the alloy extrusion where I can fit the struts only allows an 18mm diameter tube, and there is a maximum weight limit with these specific tubes. However my weight calculations put my roof total weight at about 90% of their working limit, but the roof hatch is quite heavy and installed far back from the hinge so is exerting a fair bit of leverage that I probably didn't fully account for.
Problem also is that the struts only actuate after about 12 degrees so the initial push is pretty hard before the struts take over, and they are obviously struggling a wee bit with the max weight. So I've fitted a second smaller pair forward of the first set. Difference is very noticeable - because the struts are shorter they actuate earlier in the lift which makes it easier for me to push it up, and lower, and they are adjustable ones so I can de-gas them to drop their pressure if needed, however as they are, at full power, they're just dandy and will cope with the addition of a roofbox filled with wetsuits and canoe paddles, buoyancy aids etc with no difficulty. The whole stability of the roof is greatly improved too - there was a fair bit of flex in the roof when raising/lowering before but that's virtually gone now. So, worth fitting.
Problem also is that the struts only actuate after about 12 degrees so the initial push is pretty hard before the struts take over, and they are obviously struggling a wee bit with the max weight. So I've fitted a second smaller pair forward of the first set. Difference is very noticeable - because the struts are shorter they actuate earlier in the lift which makes it easier for me to push it up, and lower, and they are adjustable ones so I can de-gas them to drop their pressure if needed, however as they are, at full power, they're just dandy and will cope with the addition of a roofbox filled with wetsuits and canoe paddles, buoyancy aids etc with no difficulty. The whole stability of the roof is greatly improved too - there was a fair bit of flex in the roof when raising/lowering before but that's virtually gone now. So, worth fitting.
piratexpress1369a
Explorer
just wondering what effect the wind will do to it when it is open
Well if I'm driving it will be pretty noticeable! :sombrero:
But I guess when parked up and the wind gets it side on it will rock. The wind wont blow it down if it hits it straight on as it will be supported at the back end by a pair of metal poles which double as 'corners' for the fabric sides.
But I guess when parked up and the wind gets it side on it will rock. The wind wont blow it down if it hits it straight on as it will be supported at the back end by a pair of metal poles which double as 'corners' for the fabric sides.
Gordon_AMI
New member
Hi Wuntenn.
An awesome thread, I'm seriously impressed with your build - I actually joined these forums just to see the pics. Tonight I have just read through from cover to cover, as it were.... I've been thinking along similar lines for several years, albeit without anything more than small models, and had come up with some of what you have thought of, but some is sheer, unadulterated genius!!!
Just wondering how its all progressing, and wether you have any finished pics?
Thanks
Gordon
An awesome thread, I'm seriously impressed with your build - I actually joined these forums just to see the pics. Tonight I have just read through from cover to cover, as it were.... I've been thinking along similar lines for several years, albeit without anything more than small models, and had come up with some of what you have thought of, but some is sheer, unadulterated genius!!!
Just wondering how its all progressing, and wether you have any finished pics?
Thanks
Gordon
Hi Gordon - glad you're enjoying it!
Progress? Well I post updates within 24 hours of doing anything so what you're looking at here is unfolding in pretty much real time. I'm going to finish the water tank tomorrow so there might be some pics later in the evening. I'm getting ready to pull the 110 out of the shed so I can go to the fabric maker to have the sides measured up and made - I'm not averse to diy'ing the sides but I think they'll look better if done by a professional!
I need to do some serious hose testing to make sure it's not leaking. Then it's a trip to Glasgow to pick up some Dibond for the removable hard sides.
Progress? Well I post updates within 24 hours of doing anything so what you're looking at here is unfolding in pretty much real time. I'm going to finish the water tank tomorrow so there might be some pics later in the evening. I'm getting ready to pull the 110 out of the shed so I can go to the fabric maker to have the sides measured up and made - I'm not averse to diy'ing the sides but I think they'll look better if done by a professional!
I need to do some serious hose testing to make sure it's not leaking. Then it's a trip to Glasgow to pick up some Dibond for the removable hard sides.
I've spend couple years there - dreich weather Cheers Hugh. Aye it's the 'far north' I'm in, so can get damp!
I have no unreasonable expectations of the fabric, but have tried to ensure that the two main areas it's fixed to are as good as I can make them:
1) The fabric fixing at top which is a rolled hem/tube of fabric with a flat thin alloy bar inside screwed upwards into the wooden perimeter timber. This is concealed 75mm up inside the alloy lip that forms the edge of the lifting top so is well up out of water's way (I hope). And.....
2) The bottom fixing of the fabric to the base - this is a 30mm upstand and the fabric is again rolled/tubed and a flat bar inside and then bolted to the vertical face of the upstand, with about a 10mm gap between the fabric bottom and the horizontal alloy where water will pool as it runs off, so there is a reduced chance of water getting drawn up into the fabric.
In both cases the rolled tube of fabric will be over sized so that the 'fold' when the roof is closed is a fold of double material to prolong its life at that critical folding/wear point.
After that it's really down to the weatherproof abilities of the fabric - I need to have a good discussion with the fabric maker about that. And of course I'll hopefully have the slot-in hard sides to use in extreme conditions to really provide a weather barrier.
I have no unreasonable expectations of the fabric, but have tried to ensure that the two main areas it's fixed to are as good as I can make them:
1) The fabric fixing at top which is a rolled hem/tube of fabric with a flat thin alloy bar inside screwed upwards into the wooden perimeter timber. This is concealed 75mm up inside the alloy lip that forms the edge of the lifting top so is well up out of water's way (I hope). And.....
2) The bottom fixing of the fabric to the base - this is a 30mm upstand and the fabric is again rolled/tubed and a flat bar inside and then bolted to the vertical face of the upstand, with about a 10mm gap between the fabric bottom and the horizontal alloy where water will pool as it runs off, so there is a reduced chance of water getting drawn up into the fabric.
In both cases the rolled tube of fabric will be over sized so that the 'fold' when the roof is closed is a fold of double material to prolong its life at that critical folding/wear point.
After that it's really down to the weatherproof abilities of the fabric - I need to have a good discussion with the fabric maker about that. And of course I'll hopefully have the slot-in hard sides to use in extreme conditions to really provide a weather barrier.
Tank assembly finished today. The whole plastic tank is covered in 3/4" closed cell foam and the remains of my Birmabright roof. I used various of the roof's strengthening ribs cut up the middle to make corner cappings. The bottom edges of the tank has two rails of steel angle on them for strength. Tank will be suspended on threaded rod with a steel plate on the bottom and cranked up tight against the inside of the wheel-arch. It's not pretty but it's strong and insulated/protected.
I've made a (very) rough angled cover for the bottom outlet which will have a T-Piece on it - one outlet leading to the internal sink tap (a simple suction flipper) and the other to a drain tap so I can empty it. It's not terribly robust but that end of the tank is well out of harm's way and it should serve to keep all the mud and road snot off the couplings and pipe.
And before I finished I pulled the wheel off and shoved the tank in to see if it would actually fit. It did! So tomorrow I might get it properly suspended.
I've made a (very) rough angled cover for the bottom outlet which will have a T-Piece on it - one outlet leading to the internal sink tap (a simple suction flipper) and the other to a drain tap so I can empty it. It's not terribly robust but that end of the tank is well out of harm's way and it should serve to keep all the mud and road snot off the couplings and pipe.
And before I finished I pulled the wheel off and shoved the tank in to see if it would actually fit. It did! So tomorrow I might get it properly suspended.
Last edited:
Gordon_AMI
New member
Sorry matey, having read again when i'm a bit fresher, I realise the date I was looking at was when you joined the forum, not the last post date... D'oh!
Keep up the good work!
G
Keep up the good work!
G
