Available information according to Q.
I like truck frames that were made of pure U.S. Steel.
I never worked in a garage professionally, but IMO, my 99 F-150 was more stout, heavier and safer than my 2020 F-150.
Maxing out your truck’s payload
- Thread starter wtwnnil
- Start date
Available information according to Q.
I like truck frames that were made of pure U.S. Steel.
I never worked in a garage professionally, but IMO, my 99 F-150 was more stout, heavier and safer than my 2020 F-150.
Agreed, Missouri Forestry and Dept. of Natural Recourses uses F-150's, but that's in hilly Missouri.
IdaSHO
IDACAMPER
If you are inclined to stick to Ford…
Any 2005+ F250/350 would be a great fit.
If you are looking to stick to Ford, any 2005+ 3/4 or 1-ton would do great.
Beefy running gear, great powertrains, and proper chassis.
I stick to 4wd for a multitude of reasons, but one many forget about when considering a 2wd is the (lack of) low range.
And I wouldnt sweat the 3/4 vs 1-ton. So long as it has good load-E tires either would do great, and a massive upgrade in capability and safety from what you have.
Any 2005+ F250/350 would be a great fit.
If you are looking to stick to Ford, any 2005+ 3/4 or 1-ton would do great.
Beefy running gear, great powertrains, and proper chassis.
I stick to 4wd for a multitude of reasons, but one many forget about when considering a 2wd is the (lack of) low range.
And I wouldnt sweat the 3/4 vs 1-ton. So long as it has good load-E tires either would do great, and a massive upgrade in capability and safety from what you have.
19mystic96
Active member
This isn't true. I snapped an axle in my 2010 raptor. Looking in the side view mirror you could see the tire was out considerably farther than usual. If you snap an axle on these, you are relying on 2 small bolts holding the caliper in place to keep the wheel/tire from completely coming off.
Upon further research, there been many people who have done the same thing but haven't been as fortunate as I was. Their tire completely came off and passed them as they scraped the ground to a stop.
For your consideration regarding purchasing a 2x4 vs 4x4, driving in 4 wheel drive is useful in a lot more circumstances above and beyond the times that it's absolutely necessary. On washboard roads, using 4wheel drive keeps the rear from sliding around. And, even in mild forest service roads and trails, it keeps you from losing traction in the first place or allows you to more quickly regain traction when you lose it. And most importantly, on the same washboard roads and trails, it is far less damaging to the road surface because it keeps hopping, sliding, and all the traction/force spread out over more contact patches and more road surface compared to being in 2 wheel drive. Washboard roads would be much less washboard if everyone used 4x4 on them.
And, as mentioned by others, 4lo is very useful in trail driving as well because it gears you down much lower than 1st gear on high range. It allows you to drive uphill slowly, over steep or loose terrain, compared to 4hi or 2hi. Keeps your speed slow to get over ledges and not risk braking parts because you had to "use momentum" to get over terrain. More importantly, it allows you to control your slow-speed descents with engine braking rather than dragging your brakes for miles at a time. There are days we are driving down a forest service road for 5 - 10 miles and only touch the brakes a handful if times the entire way out. Slow, 4lo-descents are reason enough to get a 4x4 in my opinion.
And, as mentioned by others, 4lo is very useful in trail driving as well because it gears you down much lower than 1st gear on high range. It allows you to drive uphill slowly, over steep or loose terrain, compared to 4hi or 2hi. Keeps your speed slow to get over ledges and not risk braking parts because you had to "use momentum" to get over terrain. More importantly, it allows you to control your slow-speed descents with engine braking rather than dragging your brakes for miles at a time. There are days we are driving down a forest service road for 5 - 10 miles and only touch the brakes a handful if times the entire way out. Slow, 4lo-descents are reason enough to get a 4x4 in my opinion.
Last edited:
TexasSixSeven
Observer
A single wheel 1 ton isn’t going to get any worse fuel mileage than a similarly equipped 3/4 ton. Personally I’d be looking into an XL F-350 4x4 with the 6.2 if the current truck met your needs other than payload capacity. And yes 4x4 is almost a requirement on those trucks. Your light weight half ton will get around decent in 2WD. A much heavier loaded down 3/4 or 1 ton will get stuck in wet grass in 2WD.
2wd vs. 4wd, my 14 foot V nose cargo, single axel, is under 3600 pounds fully loaded. My 24 ft. pontoon boat is just under 3800. My 26 ft. cuddy cabin is about 5800 lbs. Any 1/2 ton 2wd will pull any of them on the road, but not off road, as mentioned wet grass can be a problem. Pulling a boat up a wet boat ramp may not work well in 2wd, regardless of the truck size in the pickup world. Some boat ramps are so steep you might end up with a 2wd 1/2 ton in the water.
^^^^ above, I'll second the suggestion for the F-350, an F250 4wd may do the trick an F 350 4wd would do it.
I suggest you call around to utility companies, highway departments, or other fleet owners and see when they sell or auction off their fleet trucks. Thing about fleet trucks is they have been maintained, generally better than the average owner. High miles are usually on the highway on a late model truck. Two fleets to avoid, IMO, law enforcement and rental vehicles, both have been abused.
^^^^ above, I'll second the suggestion for the F-350, an F250 4wd may do the trick an F 350 4wd would do it.
I suggest you call around to utility companies, highway departments, or other fleet owners and see when they sell or auction off their fleet trucks. Thing about fleet trucks is they have been maintained, generally better than the average owner. High miles are usually on the highway on a late model truck. Two fleets to avoid, IMO, law enforcement and rental vehicles, both have been abused.
rruff
Explorer
If you want to keep the truck you have, I'd definitely upgrade your tires. You can get higher load range tires with street tread if that suits you better. Michelin Defender or Nitto DuraGrappler are good options.
Better shocks with higher damping would be a good idea. For a low budget option KYB Monomax looked interesting in my research, but I ended up spending more money. Replacing front coilovers is a chore, and expensive if you pay someone to do it.
Note that GVWR is a manufacturer liability and warranty number, based on the stock vehicle. The rear axle rating isn't based on the axle alone but also the springs, shocks, tires, etc. Do some online research on Ford forums, and see if owners of similar trucks have had rear axle problems; if not then you probably won't either since lots of them are hauling over the limit. If you are a decent driver, I wouldn't worry about safety; make the sensible upgrades and drive conservatively.
Todd780
OverCamper
What are you basing the statement of 'since lots of them are hauling over the limit' on?
I'm on a F150 forum and there are just as many payload threads there as there are here.
Can't see I see evidence on F150 forums of lots of people hauling over limit.
rruff
Explorer
99% of the people with a regular camper on the back for starters...
Todd780
OverCamper
Most of the F150 owners I see are either tent camping, hauling an RTT or lightweight shell (like Project M) or towing a travel trailer.
Not saying none are hauling campers or over payload. But, I wouldn't say it's lots.
Most payload questions are met with the payload police like they are here on this site.
Todd780
OverCamper
Agreed. That remark was not directed at anyone in particular.
OP is doing his due diligence.
Thanks again, everyone!Center of Gravity.... must be ahead of the rear axle.
Weigh the truck without the camper
xxx# FRONT
xxx# REAR
Weigh truck and camper
xxx# FRONT
xxx# REAR
Do it all on the same day so things like gas tank load are constant.
If the front axle scales heavier with the camper
If the front axle WITH camper is lighter than the front axle WITHOUT camper.... the camper center of gravity is BEHIND the rear axle
When the center of gravity shifts behind the axle you have added exponential stress to the frame and can expect to join this group....
View attachment 788488
Weighed everything…
- Front axle went from 2500lbs to 3400lbs. I think that’s good? Does this mean the centre of gravity is definitely in front of the rear axle?
- Rear axle went from 3200lbs to 5100lbs. You’re all right - tires are maxed so we’re at the very least going to get some more weight-bearing tires. With the add-a-leaf and the positioning of centre of gravity, should I still be concerned about the axle/frame/everything
?CampStewart
Observer
I think looking at other forums is a good idea, pay attention more to the guys working with their 1/2 tons and with what they are doing than guys who post pictures of bent frames from loads completely different than what is being imposed on your truck. Pay attention to the 1/2 ton trucks that you see being worked as trucks every day. I think your biggest concerns should be getting Load range E tires, keeping stock size, sway conctol through heavy duty shocks and sway bar, and keeping your rear diff and bearings cool through syn lube and larger capacity cover. I think your weight balance is fine and would not think much about the front other than HD shocks to match the rear.
OP just how many miles a year do you expect to be driving this? Is the camper going to live on it full time? Is it a daily driver or just camping rig?
OP just how many miles a year do you expect to be driving this? Is the camper going to live on it full time? Is it a daily driver or just camping rig?
Similar threads
