MBT Willy's Trailer Build Continues!

[slimtwo]

I decided to start a new thread since it has been so long since I posted. And the original title is outdated anyway. So to review some, I purchased this 1940's "MBT Willy's" trailer a few years back now. I replaced the axle with a "Redneck" Trailers axle with electric brakes and 5 on 4.5 lug pattern first thing to match my Jeep. I have replaced the tongue and hitch and extended it. My hitch of choice is the "Max Coupler". At this point I have been using the trailer pretty much as is to this point, but with the purchase of a new CVT RTT, I need to get busy and finish it. The trailer had some lite bracing at the rear of the trailer which I removed. A friend and I bought some 14 gauge steel to make new fenders, and I copied the style from the M-416.



I have since removed the tongue box and purchased some 2" sq 13 ga. steel tubing for slider bars fore and aft of the fenders. More later.

 

[slimtwo]

I removed the tongue box and the make shift shelf that was behind it in preparation for the additional material and welding. I started cutting the material for the slider bars in front of the fenders. I actually went piece by piece. Tack welding one part at a time to make sure they were true.

I did this one second, and it came out a little better than the other side



I have no trouble measuring, cutting and fitting, and then tack welding. But when the actual welding comes up, I am struggling a little. I went on U-tube and watched a bunch of welding videos which helped, but I just need to practice. They may not be pretty, but I made sure to get good penetration, so they are strong.

The next thing I did was remove the tail gate. This trailer did not originally have a tail gate, but whoever had it before cut the back and installed one. And when they did, they used a sheet of 3/16 steel plate for the gate (heavy!), so my plan is to build a frame up gate using 16ga sheets for the skin. I cut off the mounts and ground it smooth.




Now I'm ready for the sliders bars installation be hind the fenders.
I am planning to build and install a bumper, but I have to figure out how if I am going to tie in the slider bars with the bumper, or keep them separate?
That is as far as I got, so more later.

 

[slimtwo]

I have been working on my bumper this past week. I bought the material and started in. I had to notch the center of the bumper to clear the tail gate, and I installed a receiver for possible recovery.

I drew out my cuts here


Got it all cut out and ready for welding

All welded and ready for grinding


I had to weld it up again after I ground it down because I didn't get enough penetration the first time... so I turned up the heat. Like I said, I am still learning. But I am getting better.
I will have a picture of the finished bumper later.

 

[Mark Harley]

Looks good. The more you weld the better you will get. My welds look like bird poop when I start a project but end up smooth at the middle.
I like the rear bumper design. Great build.

 

[slimtwo]

Thank you Mark! I plan on working on the new tail gate this week. I want to make sure I have the hinge locations before I commit to the bumper mount locations.

 

[slimtwo]

So here is the bumper all ground down. I will sand it down some to further smooth it out.




I bought the material for the tailgate today, I am using 1 x 2 x .090. I will build a basic frame with a vertical center support, skin it will 14 ga. sheet and hinge it using CJ style hinges. That way when it is open it will be flush with the bed of the trailer. That's it for now.

Happy trails!

 

[slimtwo]

I got the tailgate framed up today, I have to get some more material for the center supports. I have to think about how I want to do that because I want to use a "T" style latch system that mounts in the middle and has the two dead bolt rods.I'm also looking at using an epoxy to glue the skins on instead of welding. We'll see which way it goes.




I'll have more later.

Happy trails!

 

[Mark Harley]

Are you going with a round tube across the top to match the tub?

 

[slimtwo]

Are you going with a round tube across the top to match the tub?

I was thinking about it, but I'm not sure because I have a top for it, and I will need it to seal.

 

[slimtwo]

I've spent yesterday and today working on the trailer. I was able to get the rock slider bars and the bumper installed, and I also got the hinges for the tailgate mounted and the tailgate installed. I am not done with the tailgate yet, but I am going camping this weekend and didn't have time to finish it. Hopefully I will get a chance to work on it next week. But for now I will cut a piece of plywood to block the hole. And since I don't have a latch for the gate yet (I haven't really figured out what I'm doing for a latch), I welded some tabs and will just bolt it shut for this trip.

This is the left side slider where it ties into the bumper


This is the right side


Here is the mounted tailgate (not finished of course)


Temporary latch


I recessed the nuts for the hinges, and enlarged the hole to fit a socket.


Going up to the mountains for a few days, hopefully to beat the heat!

Happy trails!

 

[slimtwo]

Well the Mountains were great! it was 30 degrees cooler up there than at home, and we enjoyed a couple of days relaxing next to a meadow.

Well now that I have selected the latch system for my tailgate (the "Anti-luce" latch), I am ready to get back on the tent supports. I have decided that I am going to use a design idea from a fellow adventurer, that will allow me to lift the tent up high enough so that I can walk under it. I am 6'4" tall, so I have to get it up there a ways so I can do that. But I don't want it up that high when I'm on the move. I will use two support brackets that will attach to a lower frame and the tent support platform. So it will lift up and pivot back where it will lock into place using two support arms. I am working on the drawings, and will post them in a day or two. However, here is a crude illustration to give you an idea what I am talking about.



I'll use gas struts to assist in lifting it up. but this way I can get the lift I want when it's deployed, but down for traveling so the center of gravity is not to high. More later.

Happy trails!

 

[Grebby]

Wouldn't it make more sense to have it pivot forwards so that when raised so that the centre of gravity is further forward?
Moving it back may increase the risk if the trailer going over backwards if unhitched.

Cheers

Grebby

 

[Plow]

I just ordered my antiluce hardware a few days ago for my tailgate. Seems like a practical and clean solution to keep the tailgate rattle free. I have been trying to put an adjustable height RTT rack together in my head for awhile. Having a lid on my M100 may be a PITA to mount such a rack but I have seen a few designs that have caught my eye. I would like to check out your concept. Nice build you have going on!

 

[slimtwo]

Wouldn't it make more sense to have it pivot forwards so that when raised so that the centre of gravity is further forward?
Moving it back may increase the risk if the trailer going over backwards if unhitched.

Cheers

Grebby

I was originally going to do that, then a friend suggested going the other way so as not to interfere with the with the tow rigs antenna. But I may go back to my first thought any way. However, which ever way I go , I will have 4 stabilizing jacks that will drop down to prevent the trailer from moving when the tent is deployed.

 

[slimtwo]

I just ordered my antiluce hardware a few days ago for my tailgate. Seems like a practical and clean solution to keep the tailgate rattle free. I have been trying to put an adjustable height RTT rack together in my head for awhile. Having a lid on my M100 may be a PITA to mount such a rack but I have seen a few designs that have caught my eye. I would like to check out your concept. Nice build you have going on!

This is how I intend to support the tent and stabilize the trailer when the tent is deployed. the drop down legs are the next size down from the support tubes, and fit inside the tube. the leg tubes have holes in them for ease of adjustment.