Mechanic said might as well replace the engine if the timing chain needs replacement

2scars

Adventurer
The only REAL maintenance the 2.7 is supposed to need it checking valve clearance and making sure the valves aren't impacting into the head. That creates a burnt valve possibility. I checked my last truck (04 2.7 5 speed 4x4) at 125,000 and it was well within the spec. These little motors sound like tractor motors when they are running perfectly, part of the charm.

Brandon
 

jjamesyj

New member
This is a pretty darn capable little truck you picked up. i have personally run alot of trails with this truck and it is stone reliable. I was sure suprised to see that John was selling it.



I had been hunting for a stock single cab tacoma in my area for awhile. I looked at a few carbureted trucks but wanted something with EFI. I came across a truck that I saw a lot of potential in so I checked it out even though it did not meet my stock criteria. It was very clean has tons of storage and a roof top tent can be mounted easily. I weighed the good with the bad and pulled the trigger on it. So much for being low key.

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[/IMG]

If that truck is not the right one I'd try and buy the wildernest off it if you can get it for a deal.
 

TheSweatyButcher

Adventurer
This is a pretty darn capable little truck you picked up. i have personally run alot of trails with this truck and it is stone reliable. I was sure suprised to see that John was selling it.

Its a small world. Its definitely overbuilt for what I want to do with it.
 
Kinda late to the party here and I did not read all replies, so bare with me if I'm repeating what someone already stated.

He isn't far off on one count, but totally off his rocker on the other.

1- A timing chain set from Toyota for the 3rz 2.7L 4cyl engine is quite costly. At about $1600 for the entire set, I can see why he was thinking it might be better to replace the engine. A used engine from a recycler with low miles usually costs about that much. Now you may be thinking, well it just needs a timing chain. You don't just replace the chain, you usually replace the whole cam timing assembly. And why use OEM Toyota parts? Because.

2- This is where he is totally off base. A Toyota 3rz timing chain is said to have a life expectancy of about 300K miles. I have heard of pieces in the set going bad at a young age, but never the chain.

So let's just say that your mechanic's intentions may not have been totally insane, but a tad misinformed.
 
Kinda late to the party here and I did not read all replies, so bare with me if I'm repeating what someone already stated.

He isn't far off on one count, but totally off his rocker on the other.

1- A timing chain set from Toyota for the 3rz 2.7L 4cyl engine is quite costly. At about $1600 for the entire set, I can see why he was thinking it might be better to replace the engine. A used engine from a recycler with low miles usually costs about that much. Now you may be thinking, well it just needs a timing chain. You don't just replace the chain, you usually replace the whole cam timing assembly. And why use OEM Toyota parts? Because.

2- This is where he is totally off base. A Toyota 3rz timing chain is said to have a life expectancy of about 300K miles. I have heard of pieces in the set going bad at a young age, but never the chain.

So let's just say that your mechanic's intentions may not have been totally insane, but a tad misinformed.

Thanks for your insights. As for #2, the mechanic hasn't even *looked* at the truck yet.
I only asked him what it would cost to replace the timing chain. The only reason that topic came up was because the *seller* told me that before I went to see the truck.
When I saw the truck in person and chatted a bit more with the guy, it turns out he was saying that from a (perhaps misinformed) maintenance approach, he just seemed to think it was time. Granted, I did not hear what the engine sounded like when it starts from cold (it was already warmed up), but the seller assured me he had not heard any unusual sounds.

Just my 2 cents trying to defend my mechanic. He's been a good guy to me, always fair, always honest. Have not had a reason to mistrust him yet, and he's never failed me yet.
 
Take it some where to get it checked out.
Looks like the steering rack boot may be leaking so it may need replacing or ru-building. The oil spot on the differential is most likely do to the crush washer was re-used when the fluid was changed last. They tend to leak if a new crush washer isn't used. Just my non-expert opinion.

Thanks for that. I was also worried about the oil spots on the differentials and the rack boot.
I am somewhat surprised no one else has commented on them. Does it look normal?
 
I agree to get what you like.

A '98 Tacoma is not old at all. I consider that to be quite new (I drive a 1985). It's impossible to foresee the future, but that's a very reliable, proven platform and chances are it will make the trip (and many more) without a hitch. The 3RZ is quite fuel efficient. You should be able to average in the low 20s for MPG, depending on how it's loaded. Chances are, a 3RZ Tacoma and a Vitara will deliver similar fuel economy.

It's true that you don't need a 4wd at all to complete the trip, but there are other places you can access with one (such as beaches, mountain trails, etc). Definitely take some time to learn 4wd driving and recovery techniques before you depart. There are books, videos and courses available. Local 4wd clubs can be a help. Driver skill usually makes more of a difference than the vehicle in terms of where you can go safely.

There are plenty of trip reports from others who have completed the journey--you may want to browse some of them. Here are two that used 1st-generation 4runners (both 1987s).

http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...hread-87-4runner-built-for-epic-PanAm-journey

http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...way-San-Francisco-to-Ushuaia-in-an-87-4Runner

Since you mention you've driven a Prius, I also drive one (a 2nd-generation liftback) and if I were to embark on a long journey, I might be more tempted to take it than the 4wd camper. It literally gets 3X the fuel economy, is drop-dead reliable, has nice cargo capacity and can be slept in. It even does pretty well on sandy two-tracks.

Definitely select carefully when making modifications. Don't feel the need to make the rig LOOK like an expedition rig. What is an expedition rig? A rig that is used for expeditions. There's nothing in the definition that says it needs to be outfitted a certain way. Focus on maintenance items rather than modifications. Only change what really needs to be changed for reliable, functional operation.

Yes, I definitely intend to learn as much about 4wd driving as I can. There are a few local groups in the area who do expo-type meet ups where you can go see cool rigs, do some 4wd courses and general other essential expedition skills (first aid medical training, etc). I've yet to find one with a specific date I can attend, but I do want to learn as much as I can before taking off.

Thanks for the trip reports you shared, they are very insightful and I will be reading all of them in the days to come. So much info everywhere!

About the Prius, yes I've thought about it. It is currently my daily driver, and in all honestly it has been the toughest/reliable car I have owned!
BUT I know it's limits now. I have gone to trailheads here in WA where the Prius was struggling. Even going real slow I was still scraping my bottom from time to time.
If it had the clearance I would take it to south america, but it doesn't, and I don't want to miss out on all the paths it will not be able to take me on.

Reliable functional operation. Well said. That's my main goal.
Still thinking. I went to see the Vitara yesterday.
It's a 2007 with around 80k miles. It has AC. It's the same price as the Taco.
Decisions, decisions...
 
I had been hunting for a stock single cab tacoma in my area for awhile. I looked at a few carbureted trucks but wanted something with EFI. I came across a truck that I saw a lot of potential in so I checked it out even though it did not meet my stock criteria. It was very clean has tons of storage and a roof top tent can be mounted easily. I weighed the good with the bad and pulled the trigger on it. So much for being low key.

60Sl72d.jpg
[/IMG]

If that truck is not the right one I'd try and buy the wildernest off it if you can get it for a deal.

Sounds good, I can let you know if I don't end up pulling the trigger and buying it. Are you close to Seattle/WA?
 
Absolutely.
Never buy a used vehicle without a trusted mechanic's thorough inspection and if you can afford it, a leakdown test. That's the best way to assess the health of the truck.

Leakdown test. Interesting.
Seems like it's possible to do that yourself, but maybe the gauges themselves are expensive... I'll look into it!
 

pugslyyy

Expedition Vehicle Engineer Guy
Hey guys,

I am looking to get a 4x4 Tacoma in decent enough shape to drive (and camp along the way) from the Northwest well into South America, probably as far as southern Chile/Patagonia.
Still doing a ton of research and looking at trucks that may fit the bill.

I came across a 1998 Tacoma with 155k miles. A little worried about the age, but still willing to see if it could get the job done.
An older vehicle, especially in central america, might make for a less desirable theft target.

The seller mentioned the timing chain is due for a change. I'm going to see it in person tomorrow, don't know why he thinks the chain needs replacing.
I called up my usual mechanic, and he said I might as well replace the whole engine if the chain needs replacing.
Replacing the chain would restore the original compression in the engine, and it the other worn parts will eventually blow.

Haven't found anything on the net about this, and some people seemed to have replaced their chains. Any suggestions?

Sorry for the late comment, but my first thought was that the mechanic had a boat payment due. :)
 

toylandcruiser

Expedition Leader
Kinda late to the party here and I did not read all replies, so bare with me if I'm repeating what someone already stated.

He isn't far off on one count, but totally off his rocker on the other.

1- A timing chain set from Toyota for the 3rz 2.7L 4cyl engine is quite costly. At about $1600 for the entire set, I can see why he was thinking it might be better to replace the engine. A used engine from a recycler with low miles usually costs about that much. Now you may be thinking, well it just needs a timing chain. You don't just replace the chain, you usually replace the whole cam timing assembly. And why use OEM Toyota parts? Because.

2- This is where he is totally off base. A Toyota 3rz timing chain is said to have a life expectancy of about 300K miles. I have heard of pieces in the set going bad at a young age, but never the chain.

So let's just say that your mechanic's intentions may not have been totally insane, but a tad misinformed.

Holy smokes. I found a timing chain kit for 82 bucks.


The following is a signature.
"The right of the people to be secure in their persons, houses, papers, and effects, against unreasonable searches and seizures, shall not be violated, and no Warrants shall issue, but upon probable cause, supported by Oath or affirmation, and particularly describing the place to be searched, and the persons or things to be seized."
 

TheSweatyButcher

Adventurer
Sounds good, I can let you know if I don't end up pulling the trigger and buying it. Are you close to Seattle/WA?

I'm in Colorado. Around here there were a few 1st gen extended cab tacoma's with 250,000-300,000 miles with wildernests. The sellers were asking $6,500-$7,500 which I felt was to high. I dont need two trucks but I think you should make an offer the one you posted.
 
Holy smokes. I found a timing chain kit for 82 bucks.

Yeah...

I wouldn't use it.

LC Engineering just started selling a good set for about a quarter what the dealer gets, but maybe the mechanic is not familiar with LC. I bet he is familiar with auto parts store brand timing sets, which is why he won't use them.
 
Leakdown test. Interesting.
Seems like it's possible to do that yourself, but maybe the gauges themselves are expensive... I'll look into it!

Leakdown gauge sets are not cheap, you're right there, but it's not a simple process either. There are some tricks to getting accurate readings during a leakdown test. And then there's interpreting the data that can be confusing.

Leave that one up to an expert.

A couple guys have mentioned it here already, but the reasoning was incomplete. Yes, the valves tend to beat into the head, but the reason they burn is because the valves hang open, not because they are beating into the head. A simple valve adjustment at the right time can save you thousands. These Tacoma motors burn valves and crack heads at the same time, and a leakdown can catch that before it's a problem.
 

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