Mercedes 1222A.. The beginning!

[Neil]

Not sure this will help as mine (1017) is simply hydraulic without air , but when i did my master cylinder i had a nightmare bleeding it but eventually it got it useable but like yours was high. Over time i think a few small air bubles left in the system must have made their way back to the resevoir and now its back to how it used to be. Mine also has adjustment on the pedal itself

 

[Sitec]

So, things have finally started 'proper'! Severel evenings have been spent removing the last of the seats, air con outlets, curtain rails, interior lights and speakers etc. With an empty box I could start to remove the roof carpet and floor 'lino'. With the radio blaring and help from my loyal lap dog the interior is now all but gutted! Grinder next!!

 

[Fugly]

Now the fun begins.....

 

[Sitec]

It does for sure! Heaps of work ahead but I hope it'll be worth it. I got into it again yesterday and removed the rear partition between the living and back locker. This will go and become a bedroom with outdoor kitchen and 'workshop' underneath.

 

[Sitec]

Slow but positive progress. I've all but stripped out the internal side panels, and now working on the floor. Prob a good job I have pulled the sides off, as A, there's no insulation in there, and B, it's all heavy glav steel that doesn't need to be there. Ply will be going back in once the floor is lowered and the body widened.

 

[Sitec]

I managed to get one full day on the body strip over Easter, and it made a difference. I still can't get over how well engineered it all is!! No signs of corrosion either. Rear door removal and roof center strip next! I've decided that I'm going to go about the widening process by chopping out the bulk of the floor spars etc (as theyre not suited to our chassis and the 4 point system I'm fabricating), and then insert 4 RHS cross bars with smaller RHS inside it (like a towbar insert). I can then temporarily weld them in (two at chassis level and two at window base level). I can use a pinch bolt on each. Then I can cut the floor and roof, slacken the pinch bolts and slide the two halves apart. If I mark the internal sliding RHS with a line first, then I'll have a marker at the right width! Watch this space and the antics that are soon to ensue! While working on the body, the mind runs riot with forward planning, and what has to be done, floor heights, roof hatches, rear water tank positioning etc!!!

 

[Fugly]

Seems well built
Good idea with the RHS

 

[Sitec]

A little more progress yesterday after the ANZAC Dawn Service. I managed to remove the central roof sheet without trashing the outer side sections. Not sure how tho as it was glued on soooooo well! This has at least reassured me that I can just bond the solar panels on and not stress about bolting/riveting them through the roof! There has been a little water in here at some point, between the insulation and ceiling. I'm pretty sure I found where it had got in.

 

[Sitec]

Once the roof sheet was off, I could ponder how much/little of the ceiling sheet I need to remove. It will probably all come out, but I figure that if I remove only whats necessary now then it gives me options later! I thought the external roof sheet was glued on well.... I had my whole weight hanging of a pair of vice grips on each edge and then it only let go slowly!! I might get to removing the rear ceiling sheet tonight. I've decided that I'm going to make the large kitchen/living and bedroom roof hatches, as the cost for the KCT or Outbound options are more than it cost to put the windows in our whole house... and we have a lot of glass! I'm also looking at a pair of small Dometic Heki Mini roof skylights for the shower room and toilet room... I know they're not as nice as they could be but I'm 'looking' at options. Anyone seen/used them? Cheers for now.

 

[VerMonsterRV]

We are using a MaxxAir 7500k in the bathroom. It is sitting on the bench for install once we get back. I plan to order up the MaxxShade Plus which will not only be a shade but the LED overhead light. Plus the 7500k comes with a remote. Plan is to have it in the "bedroom" and be able to turn the fan to exhaust to pull air into the bedroom window.

 

[Wyuna]

Im running a Maxx Air as well, its quite good for moving air around, although i find the remote poor unless you are very close to the unit.

It does rattle off road (there are some fixes for this on line), ill be making up a foam insert for it to reduce the noise while driving.

Its quite loud at full speed, but not bad at 50%

I tested the unit before i put it in to see the draw

Fan Speed Amps at 12volt
30% 0.13
40% 0.49
50% 0.62
60% 0.80
70% 1.16
80% 1.55
90% 1.79

https://www.caravansplus.com.au/max...ermostat-power-lift-remote-355mm-p-15885.html

I did have a Heki 400x 700 skylight that i imported from germany that i was going to install, but the hinges were on the 400mm end, not like the aus imported 700 x 500 versions ( i needed 400mm version to fit in-between the roof support beams)


That is some solid framework, they tend to overdo the mining vehicles for roll over protection

 

[Sitec]

Hi VerMonsterRV and Wyuna. That's good info I like the look of the Maxxair 7500 with the 'smoke' lid. They'd be ideally suited to being above a shower and above a toilet. The only drawback is they are 12 volt, and I'm planning on going all 24 volt. They look a lot better than the Dometic Heki which looked decidedly light and flimsy (though I have not seen one in the flesh). I rang a few places in Adelaide to see if anyone had them in stock so I could have a look before buying. Now I've seen the Maxxair option and watched and heard several positive views, I think these are the way to go (if I can work a way around the 12/24v issue. Off to see what the MaxxShade Plus is now! Cheers gents!

 

[Iain_U1250]

The Dometic Heki is very flimsy, I sent mine back. I just need to look at the deep scratches on my Vetus Marine hatches to know how much of a hammering they have taken, and they are well protected where they are well protected on either side. I guess if you stick to the main roads and don't use your branch bars for protection, then something plastic will survive, but if you plan on going where you feel like and are willing to push through a branch or two when necessary, get something tough.

 

[VerMonsterRV]

We have the Tern roof hatches and I would also say that marine hatches would be way more durable (never put to the test but our marine hatches on the boat have a cast aluminum frame and 3/8" poly-carbonate lens). The drawback was that they would not be insulated (condensation in cold temps). There are screens/shades available for marine hatches. Also, for a similar size they would be more expensive, though in the US you can at times find some "left over" stock at some pretty decent pricing.

Not sure about in Australia but going 24v here would cost more and have a lot less selection of products. We are going with 12v with a 24v-12v DC-DC charger from the engine. Also allows us to use a LifePO4 house bank with a wet cell starter battery.

 

[nick disjunkt]

Another recommendation for marine hatches. I use Lewmar Ocean hatches. The aluminium frame does attract condensation but it's the price you pay for a durable, serviceable hatch.