Mercedes Overland Building/Tuning

RoamIt

Well-known member
I would get as much chassis and engine work done in Europe as possible.

To be honest, I started down that path. But I want to know every inch of of it, and the best way to do that is get my hands dirty. I'm the first to admit I know squat about heavy Mercedes trucks, but I've spent decades wrenching on various cars. Crawling around an engine, learning it's secrets, is familiar to me. Looking forward to learning about the beasts.
 

VerMonsterRV

Gotta Be Nuts
After looking at the truck I see now it is not an LN2, MB has some crazy numbering. One thing, if your future plans include travelling to other countries outside of North America (ours does), go with the MB. If you plan on sticking to North America think about a F550, Ram 5500 or a 4wd Kodiak. Different build but will be better suited to American roads and have better parts support.

The engine this truck has is the latter generation OM366LA, it was used in marine use up to 300hp. Not sure I would push it that hard but there are companies that will do it for you in Europe. One thing that is hard about suspension changes this early is to dial it in you really need to know the final weights. Pretty sure this truck will weigh more as a bare chassis than ours (we have an LN2). Which brings up weight, these trucks are not overly powerful compared to American trucks. We went with a full composite box in an effort to keep the weight down (and be very well insulated). Currently we are right around 20,000lbs, it would be at least 1k less if we didn't have the motorcycle and lift. If possible I would try to keep that close to your final weight, but might be challenging depending on the build. From my understanding (I am definitely no expert) is the OM366 came in the "A" and "LA" variants. The "A" version is 170hp and lacks the intercooler but can be boosted to about 200hp. The LA's all have intercoolers and are either 200 or 240hp. The 200hp was the earlier one. Since these engines were also used in UniMogs and marine use, and share a lot of parts with the OM352 you can source some engine parts in the USA. So, try and build with final weight in mind. It will make accelerating (hard to call it that in these trucks) and climbing hills better. I am hoping the turbo swap will let me move out of the loaded semi truck lane in the hills. As far as hp, we have travelled with a truck with the OM352A (170hp) and I can say we go up hills easier.

Also for the best information on that specific truck, search eBay for "Mercedes EPC" and download/install to a Windows PC. Once installed plug the VIN in and you will have the original build specs, along with parts and service manual. Best money (very little money) I have spent on the truck. These are pretty basic machines but do require some specialized tools depending on what you are doing. If you have previously worked on engines you can probably work on this one.

The parabolic springs are from DFF. THE FEATHER EXPERT. - START (federfachmann.de) , if/when you get to that point let Harald know we have talked. He can also supply the shocks from Heavy duty shock absorbers for Expedition vehicles (marquartshockabsorbers.com) . They work together to dial in the specs needed. With the original springs we would cringe even at the smallest bump, now we can do 30mph over corrugated roads. We did find after the upgrade that the shocks could not cope with these more active springs, so now the upgraded shocks are on the way. Hard to specify the spacer blocks this early as you don't have the corner weights to level the truck out. Harald can also supply those along with the U bolts.

I am not sure about the auto transmission but would assume the final gear is direct drive. At least on the LN2 trucks there wasn't a transmission with overdrive available in the 4WD versions. With firetruck spec truck (the AF versions), a lot of times they came with the faster ring/pinion in the axles. A search in the EPC will tell you which ratio this truck was built with. Ours came with the faster axles, but there is one more faster but it is about $6-7k in parts alone, then you need a special tool to swap them out. Not something I dare to try.

For the rims, it is good that the truck is 10 bolt. Will make it easier to source them in the USA.
 

RoamIt

Well-known member
Jon, Thanks so much for the info!!! I really appreciate it. I'll run the vin and see what comes up.

And guess what just showed up today?
 

Attachments

  • books.jpg
    books.jpg
    30.6 KB · Views: 26

Sitec

Adventurer
I remember when my two books turned up too! You'll have your head in those books for the next few weeks!!

There's still time to change your mind!! ;)
 

RoamIt

Well-known member
Just got the word today, Martin Krauss from Terra-Exp will be in Germany Oct. 18th. He'll go to the truck and send me fresh pic's/vid/confirmations on the front locker question.

So I have about 4 weeks to sober up and realize this is a horrible idea... I still have a unfinished '76 911 in my garage... and a gutted master bathroom....

But I'm going to Overland Expo East before then, and I love 'gear' and 'tools' so I will be all jacked up after that to start a build.
 

Geo.Lander

Well-known member
I recently went for a full suspension setup from Jon's contact Harald from DFF in Germany. We also converted to single 22.5 wheels which I was assured can be aired down 30% if you opt for the construction site specific tires like the Nokian or R-Truck or Hankook AM15 which have heavy duty side walls. We went a step further and opted for a 80-100mm lift all round and matching shocks from Marquart from the start, we have not driven it with a box on the back yet as we are not at that stage of the build. You can go for a 4+1 leaf setup and that is rated upto 8000kg on the rear axel, you can then remove one leaf for a 3+1 setup if you need to. DFF recommend this approach as it is either 4+1 or 3+1.

Regarding wheels, you have 2 choices, IS 110 and 120. The difference is the offset when they are switched from rear/front. I went for the 110 on my smaller LK cab to match the front fenders a bit more.

image (3).png

We are building a homebrew CTIS system with the help from our truck body and box builders in the UK (Atkinson Voss) simply using commercially available pneumatic regulator values.

Regarding engine power, im a little at odds with the advice given about switching out turbos etc. Im not a engineer but I had some lengthly conversations with my Norwegian engineer about this and it generally comes down to Bosch benching the injectors and complete fuel pump rebuild to take my OM 366 LA engine from 204 -> 240-280HP. Anything more than that I have been informed would require quite extensive manifold mods to cope with the exhaust gases. Like I said, Im not an mechanic.

The information within this forum is gold, but a word of caution, I often find it at odds with professional advice from Mercedes truck specialists like my Norwegian mechanic and Aktinson Voss (UK), especially when it come to engine stuff. In summary, trust but verify with more than one source that know these trucks before financially committing to engine and chassis mods.

Some older pics of my suspension and shocks just after a trial fitting :D
20210620_161812.JPG
 

RoamIt

Well-known member
Thanks Geo.Lander, I have been talking with Terra Exp. They told me (and VerMonsterRV said it also) that the OM366LA was indeed used in marine applications at 300HP. They said it was just a fuel pressure adjustment(?) I've got a long way to go before I get to that, but if the factory is running them at 300hp, it should be safe.

You'll have to share how your custom CTIS system works for you.

Terra Exp has been sharing little nuggets of info. Like when I mentioned super singles, he said I would need to use lifting blocks, trim some fenders, and mentioned something about the impact on the brakes? They are not building the truck, just selling me one they had already curated & acquired, but Martin has been nice enough to share some info here and there.

On the suspension mods, I think the best advice I got was to get it weighed, then talk to the suspension guys. I am planning on going full composite on the box and interior partitions to keep things light. I don't really need granite counter tops ;)

However, I am going to have a motorcycle as a road scout/city runabout/emergency vehicle. So that will add some weight.
 

Madoxen

Active member
OM366LA was indeed used in marine applications at 300HP. They said it was just a fuel pressure adjustment(?)

Hey there is one big diffrence between same engines used on land or for marine use that will always enable the marine use engine to generate more hp that can not be attained on land. Its the fact that marine use engines have the continouse cooling from the cooling water being taken from the sea /lake keeping the engine cooler and allowing the extra hp from cooler running..

On land you have a much smaller
Water tank that warms up quick
 

RoamIt

Well-known member
Good point, thanks for sharing. I have thought about various 'bullet proofing' things I could do. Extra cooling is always a good idea. Oil coolers, diff coolers, more efficient radiator, electric fans, etc. are things I've worked with on my cars.
 

DiploStrat

Expedition Leader
...

But I'm going to Overland Expo East before then, and I love 'gear' and 'tools' so I will be all jacked up after that to start a build.

Come say "Hello!" You can also take a look at my truck. You might also enjoy my classes, if you are doing a home brew.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
188,151
Messages
2,902,803
Members
229,582
Latest member
JSKepler
Top