Mitsubishi Montero Dash, Console, and Interior LED Bulb Replacement, Gen 2.5
- Thread starter jlocster
- Start date
off-roader
Expedition Leader
Again well done. One other question. Where did you purchase the lights? If ebay or amazon, links to the actual products would be greatly appreciated by all I think... for the immediate purchasers at least.
Easier on the eyes in the dark...or so I've heard.
off-roader, I'll post some links/additional pics later this evening
off-roader
Expedition Leader
What u probably should have heard is you're less likely to loose your night vision.
jlocster,
I've done my dome lights and cluster all in white(cluster has a bluish tint), I'll take a pic at night in a day or two for you to compare.
off-roader,
Ebay is the best place for these lights, price shopping around you can get them VERY cheap.
Here's a quick search for the T10 bulbs, these fit the cluster back lighting, turn signals, low gas, compass/volt/oil back lighting. A search for "T5 SMD" will net you links to the small instrument bulbs, dash, key insert etc. The two that go into the compass lighting are different, search for "T4 Neo Wedge SMD".
I personally used the "5 SMD 5050" kind where T10 bulbs fit, as I wanted to mimic the 360* of light of a traditional bulb.
-The SMD is the light diode
-The number before tells you how many diodes are on the bulb, eg "5 SMD" means it has 5 diodes
-The number after is the size of the diode(s), eg a "5050" is a 5mm x 5mm diode, "3528" is a 3.5mm x 2.8mm diode etc.
-The color of the base is generally the color of the light produced. White base = white light(sometimes white has slight bluish tint), red base = red light etc
Bulbs that say "Canbus" and/or "Error Free" are bulbs built in with a resister so cars that will throw out a warning light when a bulb is out will not throw out a false positive when using SMD/LEDs, as these bulbs draw so little wattage the OBD believes a light has gone out. These bulbs generally cost more and due to the resister they draw more wattage than an SMD/LED sans resistor.
I have two of these on order to use for my reverse-lights, the CREE type bulbs are not as energy-low as SMD/LEDS, but the amount of light they produce is godly and I'm sick of not seeing much when reversing at night.
edit: These bulbs usually only work one way in regards to the Positive/Negative, so test them before you put everything back together. If it doesn't work the first time, flip the bulb around, should work then.
I've done my dome lights and cluster all in white(cluster has a bluish tint), I'll take a pic at night in a day or two for you to compare.
off-roader,
Ebay is the best place for these lights, price shopping around you can get them VERY cheap.
Here's a quick search for the T10 bulbs, these fit the cluster back lighting, turn signals, low gas, compass/volt/oil back lighting. A search for "T5 SMD" will net you links to the small instrument bulbs, dash, key insert etc. The two that go into the compass lighting are different, search for "T4 Neo Wedge SMD".
I personally used the "5 SMD 5050" kind where T10 bulbs fit, as I wanted to mimic the 360* of light of a traditional bulb.
-The SMD is the light diode
-The number before tells you how many diodes are on the bulb, eg "5 SMD" means it has 5 diodes
-The number after is the size of the diode(s), eg a "5050" is a 5mm x 5mm diode, "3528" is a 3.5mm x 2.8mm diode etc.
-The color of the base is generally the color of the light produced. White base = white light(sometimes white has slight bluish tint), red base = red light etc
Bulbs that say "Canbus" and/or "Error Free" are bulbs built in with a resister so cars that will throw out a warning light when a bulb is out will not throw out a false positive when using SMD/LEDs, as these bulbs draw so little wattage the OBD believes a light has gone out. These bulbs generally cost more and due to the resister they draw more wattage than an SMD/LED sans resistor.
I have two of these on order to use for my reverse-lights, the CREE type bulbs are not as energy-low as SMD/LEDS, but the amount of light they produce is godly and I'm sick of not seeing much when reversing at night.
edit: These bulbs usually only work one way in regards to the Positive/Negative, so test them before you put everything back together. If it doesn't work the first time, flip the bulb around, should work then.
Last edited:
All-Terrain
No Road Required
Is there a position switch/contact/sensor on the transmission's shift lever that reads the position of the lever and then sends a signal to illuminate the corresponding position symbol in the cluster (P, R, N, D, 2, L) ?
I cannot seem to get my "D" light to illuminate in the cluster, with a new bulb. I've spent a while on it now... trying new bulbs, trying new old bulbs, slightly bending the contacts in the bulb holder, cleaning them, etc. I'm wondering if the signal regarding the shift lever's position is not being sent to the cluster...?
ALSO --- I have found these LED's, which were ordered using the links at the top of this thread, to require a lot of work bending the contacts into the right position to get them to touch the bulb holders' contacts. I tested each bulb prior to installing it in its bulb holder, and then tested each bulb/bulb holder combo prior to installing it in the cluster. The majority of the bulbs had to then be removed to be adjusted to get them to make contact inside the holder. The factory incandescent bulbs have more substantial contacts in them, which alleviates that issue.
I cannot seem to get my "D" light to illuminate in the cluster, with a new bulb. I've spent a while on it now... trying new bulbs, trying new old bulbs, slightly bending the contacts in the bulb holder, cleaning them, etc. I'm wondering if the signal regarding the shift lever's position is not being sent to the cluster...?
ALSO --- I have found these LED's, which were ordered using the links at the top of this thread, to require a lot of work bending the contacts into the right position to get them to touch the bulb holders' contacts. I tested each bulb prior to installing it in its bulb holder, and then tested each bulb/bulb holder combo prior to installing it in the cluster. The majority of the bulbs had to then be removed to be adjusted to get them to make contact inside the holder. The factory incandescent bulbs have more substantial contacts in them, which alleviates that issue.
All-Terrain,
I'm not sure how the shift lever signal gets to the dash, so I can't advise on that.
Sorry you're having so much trouble with the LEDs. Not that this helps your situation, but, for the record I didn't have any problems with the contacts on mine...maybe I just got a better batch. Just to make sure, are you aware that LEDs are diodes, meaning they only allow current to flow in one direction? Unlike incandescent bulbs which can be socketed in any position, LEDs are directional and have negative and positive leads...they will only work if installed in the correct orientation. If they don't work one way, spin the socket around to reverse the contacts in the cluster and then they should work...assuming, of course, that's the issue.
Good luck and I'm looking forward to your pics when finished!
I'm not sure how the shift lever signal gets to the dash, so I can't advise on that.
Sorry you're having so much trouble with the LEDs. Not that this helps your situation, but, for the record I didn't have any problems with the contacts on mine...maybe I just got a better batch. Just to make sure, are you aware that LEDs are diodes, meaning they only allow current to flow in one direction? Unlike incandescent bulbs which can be socketed in any position, LEDs are directional and have negative and positive leads...they will only work if installed in the correct orientation. If they don't work one way, spin the socket around to reverse the contacts in the cluster and then they should work...assuming, of course, that's the issue.
Good luck and I'm looking forward to your pics when finished!
jeep-N-montero
Expedition Leader
Some great info, now I know where the bulb is for my compass.
KarmannMarco
Adventurer
Just wanted to add my shot at LED dash lights.
I bought some super white LEDs (same sizes as recommended by the OP ) Needless to say the white looked more like light blue/purple and they did not spread light evenly (yes i did check that they all lit and the polarity was correct).
I have already switched these back to normal and will be returning then LEDs.
The dome/map lights were actually white unlike the dash bulbs but they were to bright/artificial looking to me.
I'll be happy they way it was.
Here's pictures of the turn out (the 4wd lights were not in at the time i took the picture)
I bought some super white LEDs (same sizes as recommended by the OP ) Needless to say the white looked more like light blue/purple and they did not spread light evenly (yes i did check that they all lit and the polarity was correct).
I have already switched these back to normal and will be returning then LEDs.
The dome/map lights were actually white unlike the dash bulbs but they were to bright/artificial looking to me.
I'll be happy they way it was.
Here's pictures of the turn out (the 4wd lights were not in at the time i took the picture)
Jay Ayala
Explorer
jlocster,
did you do your tail lights, and side markers and turn signals? If so, did you need to do anything with about the Flasher? I attempted to swap out all my bulbs over the weekend with LED's but once I did, my turn signal flasher was no longer working. Everything I've read online says you have so little draw, that the classic flashers no longer work. Evidently I have to get some sort of resistors soldered inline with the bulbs or some type of resistor adapters at the base of the bulbs.
Did you run into that as well?
I keep running into this on my google searches.
did you do your tail lights, and side markers and turn signals? If so, did you need to do anything with about the Flasher? I attempted to swap out all my bulbs over the weekend with LED's but once I did, my turn signal flasher was no longer working. Everything I've read online says you have so little draw, that the classic flashers no longer work. Evidently I have to get some sort of resistors soldered inline with the bulbs or some type of resistor adapters at the base of the bulbs.
Did you run into that as well?
I keep running into this on my google searches.