Mobil 1 5w-30 Synthetic

[Scott Brady]

No problem changing from conventional to synthetic or from synthetic to synthetic. In this case, you are moving to a higher quality product, which your motor can only benefit from.

My favorite part about a good synthetic is the time it saves and reduced waste. I spent half the time (6,000 mile oil changes instead of 3,000) and generate half of the waste oil and oil filters. Pretty cool in my book. :Mechanic:

 

[erod]

i agree 100% scott on the waste reduction...i think dave point was more switching between oil manufacturers and a reaction occuring between different additives and detergents (see below). i had never been aware of this issue but know far less about oils than many of the forum members. is that 0w30 readily available, don't think i have ever seen it...

LOL, asking about which oil might as well ask about your religion and politics, too! Mobil 1 is good, so is Amsoil. Don't think you can go wrong. What's more important is that you pick one and stick with it, mixing brands isn't ideal since sometimes additives and detergents can react. The stuff I use is easy to find in the weights I want and so by that logic I would say Mobil 1 as it's very common. Oh, and I own ExxonMobil stock, so the more you buy, the better.

 

[Jacket]

I change at 6,000

For the Arctic trip, we ran the same oil for 9,200 miles. Oil test results are pending. I will try to post them up.

Are you having a UOA done? I would be very interested in hearing the results of your 9000+ sample. I ran some Mobil1 for 6000+ miles, and the UOA came back high in iron content - and the report stated this was a "normal" side effect of running longer on a given oil.

 

[njtaco]

I generally use Mobil 1 in my vehicle(s), and change at 5000 miles. No real reason for 5K vs 6K, except I remember to change oil, check brakes, rotate tires, etc. at 65K, 70K, 75K, etc. I find it easier than 60K, 66K, 72K...you get the idea. It meant more when I had more vehicles to keep track of, but I still do it this way. It also coincides with the 30/60/90 services nicely, but so would 6K intervals... I am prolly wasting a bit of money changing it so often, but better to err on the side of caution. I also use my 4 cyl. to tow, etc. so I can justify it more easily.

 

[DaveInDenver]

dave mentioned some issues with changing oil brands...i have done this before with no issues but the truck is getting older and these are things i want to be more carfule of.

Re: Change intervals. Only one way to know for sure, do an oil analysis. This will tell you oil condition, air and oil filter condition, general condition of your engine. On my old engine it recommended 4000 mile intervals and I was using synthetic already.

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/


Re: Mixing oil brands. There is no way to really know for sure if an additive package will react, but the fact is it's a low risk. If you switch brands and do a complete change, there is a supremely low change of problems. If you find your level low and need to top off with another brand, it is worse to have low oil level than mixing brands. The way additives react would either make a corrosive compound (rare) or reduce the effectiveness of the additives (so say reducing the activity of viscosity modifiers or detergents). The actual chance is very low, but I do think the recommendation still is to stick within a brand, be that conventional or synthetic. You can go back and forth between a brand's conventional and synthetic, that I don't think is a problem.

 

[SOAZ]

No problem changing from conventional to synthetic or from synthetic to synthetic. In this case, you are moving to a higher quality product, which your motor can only benefit from.

My favorite part about a good synthetic is the time it saves and reduced waste. I spent half the time (6,000 mile oil changes instead of 3,000) and generate half of the waste oil and oil filters. Pretty cool in my book. :Mechanic:

Scott,
I've always run the 5-30 mobil 1. As the miles increase "they" seem to always suggest going to a slightly higher weight lower end like a 10-30. Have you ever heard or experienced any negative with using the 0-30? I may have to try that on my next go around. Thanks! :arabia:

 

[Jacket]

Castrol has a 0w-30 "European blend" that was all the rage for a while in the motor oil circles. While no one generally raved about the other Syntec oils, the 0w-30 was imported from Germany, and seemed to be a superior blend.

I only found it at Autozone when I went looking, and ran it for about a year. I haven't been able to find it since November, possibly due to the fact that certain folks were buying by the caseload and stock piling it.

It seems as though Pennzoil Platnium has become the latest hot commodity in the synthetic market, especially when it's on sale....

 

[7wt]

Just curious. When you guys upgrade to synthetic do you have to upgrade the filter as well? Also when you FIRST upgraded did you have to flush or simply add the oil and the old stuff would be removed?

Upgrade the filter to a Mobil1 filter, reason being is that you are going to use it twice as long and they have more capacity. I use the M209 because it is larger. The things are onlly like $10 bucks or so. I change the oil anywhere between 5 and 7,000. I have a Fumoto drain plug so if I am close to 6,000 miles, I just take a small sample to see how it looks, if it still looks good, I put more miles on it. This is the ideal set up if you ask me. I can roll the oil between my fingers and feel for particulate grit or I can spread it out on paper and let it dry to look for metal flakes. Being able to check the bottom end oil is a value grater than the $30 it cost for the plug.

 

[erod]

Upgrade the filter to a Mobil1 filter, reason being is that you are going to use it twice as long and they have more capacity. I use the M209 because it is larger. The things are onlly like $10 bucks or so. I change the oil anywhere between 5 and 7,000. I have a Fumoto drain plug so if I am close to 6,000 miles, I just take a small sample to see how it looks, if it still looks good, I put more miles on it. This is the ideal set up if you ask me. I can roll the oil between my fingers and feel for particulate grit or I can spread it out on paper and let it dry to look for metal flakes. Being able to check the bottom end oil is a value grater than the $30 it cost for the plug.

That is cool, and a great idea, i am going to check out fumoto drain plugs. Do you put that directly into your oil pan and leave it on 24/7 or have you relocated your filter and valve?...maybe scott bought up all the 0w-30 !

 

[7wt]

That is cool, and a great idea, i am going to check out fumoto drain plugs. Do you put that directly into your oil pan and leave it on 24/7 or have you relocated your filter and valve?...maybe scott bought up all the 0w-30 !

Goes in and stays in. Rock solid. Both of our trucks have them in in fact, every car or truck I have from here on out will too.
http://www.fumotovalve.com/

 

[erod]

got a pic? any clearence issues? seems like it sticks out a little further then the original cap...oh wait 1/2"

Regular - 7/8" in length(Only stick out 1/2" more than standard oil plug head.)
N-Type(w/Nipple) - 1 1/2" in length

do you use the model with the nipple...doesn't seem like you need it if your just running it from the original location.

thanks again!

 

[7wt]

do you use the model with the nipple...doesn't seem like you need it if your just running it from the original location.

thanks again!

Given the choice, always choose a nipple. I like being able to put a hose on it and drain it straight into a jug or something. Superclean, no mess. There is no clearance issues at all. I don't have a pic but this guy does,
http://www.parksoffroad.com/tacomamods/fumoto/fumoto.htm

I was a little worried when I did it because of leaks and such but I also wanted to be able to test the oil. Seriously, when ever I think it is time for a change I just look at the oil and let it tell me. With the Mobil, I would have NO problems going 10,000 or so as long as you can look at it from time to time.

 

[calamaridog]

2UZ-FE Toyota 4.7L V8
Mobile 1 5w30 oil
Mobile 1 M209 filter

10,000 mile service intervals

These motors are known for being easy on oil.

 

[erod]

7wt, cool pics, i am getting one! thanks for the link!

 

[kcowyo]

FWIW, I run 5w-30 Mobil 1 with Toyota OE filters and change it every 6K.

That's been my routine for years, although I suspect 7,500 mile to 9,000 mile oil changes wouldn't be a problem with the synthetics.