mods you wouldnt do again ...

[sasaholic]

i dont understant what is so bad about auto lockers. i drove with one every day in my tacoma and it drives just fine. even my girlfriend has little to no problems with it. u just have to understand how and when they work and anticipate what is going to happen. i wouldnt trade mine . worst mod yet had to be my roof rack, but i never use it anymore

 

[Vermejo]

i would have to say i regret getting the K&N drop in filter.
After the Death Valley trip i noticed a ton of dust had passed the filter and into the intake.

Agreed, I went back to classic paper filters a few years back for the same reason.

 

[FireGuy]

I will never do weld on sliders again. Bolt on for me.

 

[SunTzuNephew]

Agreed, I went back to classic paper filters a few years back for the same reason.

I ran a K&N filter for awhile in my Nissan King Cab....never again. 2 MAF sensors replaced, in 10K miles? No thanks.

 

[Root Moose]

I will never do weld on sliders again. Bolt on for me.

Curious; how come?

 

[Backwoods Rambler]

i dont understant what is so bad about auto lockers. i drove with one every day in my tacoma and it drives just fine. even my girlfriend has little to no problems with it. u just have to understand how and when they work and anticipate what is going to happen. i wouldnt trade mine . worst mod yet had to be my roof rack, but i never use it anymore

I don't know if "Bad" is the right word for them. The work very well offroad, but for me, having to anticipate and correct for, their typical "swaying" in normal street use (especially on the highway) make driving with one a bit of a chore.

I remember having a detroit in my '72 Jimmy with a 14bolt rear. I thought that thing was awesome on road because is never "swayed" like so many folks told me it would, but I later learned that I had installed it wrong and it was never unlocking, so I basically had a spool. :coffeedrink:

 

[x32792]

1) Roof rack. You just never use it as much as you think you will.
2) 33x12 BFG AT's. Sure, they're quiet, but the MT's were so much better in all other respects.

Ditto on the roof rack. Bought a used Wrangler TJ with a Kargo Master subframe, paid $500 more to get the basket. Looks great, but don't use it as much as I thought I would.

 

[john101477]

Curious; how come?

Not sure if this is his reasoning but welded means it is there for good. grinding the old weld sucks big time. I almost wish I had done my different as well.

 

[78Bronco]

Confused?

I don't know if "Bad" is the right word for them. The work very well offroad, but for me, having to anticipate and correct for, their typical "swaying" in normal street use (especially on the highway) make driving with one a bit of a chore.

I remember having a detroit in my '72 Jimmy with a 14bolt rear. I thought that thing was awesome on road because is never "swayed" like so many folks told me it would, but I later learned that I had installed it wrong and it was never unlocking, so I basically had a spool. :coffeedrink:

So are you saying auto lockers are bad or good?

 

[esh]

I wouldn't every buy a pack of 6 trucks again, with tons of extra parts to go with... It has taken about 5 years to undo PO mods/damage/neglect and get them in good order. Still about half way into them. At least I sold a couple right off the bat. My latest project is under the knife at Metal Tech and should be trail-worthy soon.

Can't wait to get to the FJ45. It is such a fun truck to drive. Probably has to do with the warmed over 454.




STICK TO 2 TRUCKS MAX, PEOPLE!

 

[805gregg]

Adding AFE air intake to my 2003 Dodge Cummins, got tired of replacing the "lifetime filters" at $80 a crack. Went back to stock with $12 filters.

 

[Harald Hansen]

Giving up floor space on my old 109 for a battery box. I should have rearranged things in the engine compartment or under the seats instead.

 

[FireGuy]

Curious; how come?

Here is my reply I just posted on another forum......

Trust me, get bolt on. I went weld on with my 2003 4Runner for a variety of reasons: cost, availability - I could get Stubbs sliders in under two weeks, perceived strength, I figured I'd never take them off, I never wanted to do a body lift, I was happy with 33's, etc.

Now two years later, the one thing I hate about my truck are my weld on sliders. Make no mistake, the Stubbs Welding HD-SKO sliders are absolutely phenomenal. They are stupid strong, very well designed, have a kick out, and completely protect my truck. I have beat the **** out of them. I have the unique ability to manage to hit every damn rock in a rock garden with my sliders. I have slammed my rig down on my sliders countless times. They don't even budge. They are beyond strong and durable.

That being said, I really wish I had been more patient and waited to get bolt on. I wheel with a lot of guys with cruisers, 4Runners, and FJ's, and I'm one of the only ones with weld on sliders. Not ONE of their bolt on sliders have ever bent or failed. I have seen bolt on sliders from BudBuilt, Slee, Metal Tech, All Pro, and Shrockworks get beat on bad. Every last one of them have held up repeatedly. Enough so that I would not even hesitate to get bolt on sliders.

I fin myself wanting to go to a larger tire for more clearance, and also wanting to do a mild bodylift. But I won't because I will not be able to stand the bigger gap between sliders and body. It will drive me crazy. That and I find that as I have grown my experience as a wheeler, my wants in a slider are different. I would like more of a up angle on the slider, say 30 degrees compared to 15 degrees. This would give me more clearance on boulders. But I'm stuck now because of the weld on sliders. Yes I "could" cut them off. The scab plates will still be on the frame though and they may interfere with the new sliders when they are welded up higher. Plus just getting underneath the truck and cutting off sliders will be a major pain in the ***.

So my advice to you is think long and hard about what you plan to do with your LC both now and two or three years down the road. Is it a expedition rig now, but maybe you will gravitate more towards rock crawling in a year or two. If you even think for a second your needs or wants may change, I'd go bolt on. You can always take them off and resell them for a good price, at least 50% of what you paid for them if not more.

I'm taking my own advice and going with Metal Tech bolt on sliders for my 80. I want the flexibility and options bolt on sliders give me in a future as I know my idea of a perfect 80 will change over over the years.

 

[Box Rocket]

Here is my reply I just posted on another forum......

Trust me, get bolt on. I went weld on with my 2003 4Runner for a variety of reasons: cost, availability - I could get Stubbs sliders in under two weeks, perceived strength, I figured I'd never take them off, I never wanted to do a body lift, I was happy with 33's, etc.

Now two years later, the one thing I hate about my truck are my weld on sliders. Make no mistake, the Stubbs Welding HD-SKO sliders are absolutely phenomenal. They are stupid strong, very well designed, have a kick out, and completely protect my truck. I have beat the **** out of them. I have the unique ability to manage to hit every damn rock in a rock garden with my sliders. I have slammed my rig down on my sliders countless times. They don't even budge. They are beyond strong and durable.

That being said, I really wish I had been more patient and waited to get bolt on. I wheel with a lot of guys with cruisers, 4Runners, and FJ's, and I'm one of the only ones with weld on sliders. Not ONE of their bolt on sliders have ever bent or failed. I have seen bolt on sliders from BudBuilt, Slee, Metal Tech, All Pro, and Shrockworks get beat on bad. Every last one of them have held up repeatedly. Enough so that I would not even hesitate to get bolt on sliders.

I fin myself wanting to go to a larger tire for more clearance, and also wanting to do a mild bodylift. But I won't because I will not be able to stand the bigger gap between sliders and body. It will drive me crazy. That and I find that as I have grown my experience as a wheeler, my wants in a slider are different. I would like more of a up angle on the slider, say 30 degrees compared to 15 degrees. This would give me more clearance on boulders. But I'm stuck now because of the weld on sliders. Yes I "could" cut them off. The scab plates will still be on the frame though and they may interfere with the new sliders when they are welded up higher. Plus just getting underneath the truck and cutting off sliders will be a major pain in the ***.

So my advice to you is think long and hard about what you plan to do with your LC both now and two or three years down the road. Is it a expedition rig now, but maybe you will gravitate more towards rock crawling in a year or two. If you even think for a second your needs or wants may change, I'd go bolt on. You can always take them off and resell them for a good price, at least 50% of what you paid for them if not more.

I'm taking my own advice and going with Metal Tech bolt on sliders for my 80. I want the flexibility and options bolt on sliders give me in a future as I know my idea of a perfect 80 will change over over the years.

Don't get me wrong, there's nothing wrong with bolt-on sliders. If you can swing the initial extra expense, then go for it. If you are on a tighter budget, the weld on ones are great and will work just fine for 95% of people.

As for your dilemma with wanting to do a body lift but don't want the gap with your weld on sliders....I have an idea for you. Put on the body lift. If you have gussets from the legs to the scab plates cut them off. Then cut a small notch in the top of each leg (basically all the way around the tub except for the bottom). Use a jack or port-a-power or something to bend the sliders up to close the notch you just cut out and eliminate the gap from the body lift. Reweld the tubes where you cut the notches. Cut new gussets to fit the new angle of the legs and make sure the gussets extend past the new weld to support the seam. Viola! No more gap from the BL, and you didn't have to throw you sliders in the trash and buy new ones.

 

[mtnbike28]

My 2 cents added

I went with welded for the same reasons. I wish I had not for a different reason. Rust. Every spring, I have to lie on my back, sand down the round tubes ( a PIA) and repaint them to keep the damn NYS salting/rust at bay. I know the bolt-on ones would rust too, but at least I could sand them on the bench, take my time and not need to be done in a day, etc.

I have used my sliders hard and they have held up great.... but it's the painting that is a bummer

YMMV

Here is my reply I just posted on another forum......

Trust me, get bolt on. I went weld on with my 2003 4Runner for a variety of reasons: cost, availability - I could get Stubbs sliders in under two weeks, perceived strength, I figured I'd never take them off, I never wanted to do a body lift, I was happy with 33's, etc.

Now two years later, the one thing I hate about my truck are my weld on sliders. Make no mistake, the Stubbs Welding HD-SKO sliders are absolutely phenomenal. They are stupid strong, very well designed, have a kick out, and completely protect my truck. I have beat the **** out of them. I have the unique ability to manage to hit every damn rock in a rock garden with my sliders. I have slammed my rig down on my sliders countless times. They don't even budge. They are beyond strong and durable.

That being said, I really wish I had been more patient and waited to get bolt on. I wheel with a lot of guys with cruisers, 4Runners, and FJ's, and I'm one of the only ones with weld on sliders. Not ONE of their bolt on sliders have ever bent or failed. I have seen bolt on sliders from BudBuilt, Slee, Metal Tech, All Pro, and Shrockworks get beat on bad. Every last one of them have held up repeatedly. Enough so that I would not even hesitate to get bolt on sliders.

I fin myself wanting to go to a larger tire for more clearance, and also wanting to do a mild bodylift. But I won't because I will not be able to stand the bigger gap between sliders and body. It will drive me crazy. That and I find that as I have grown my experience as a wheeler, my wants in a slider are different. I would like more of a up angle on the slider, say 30 degrees compared to 15 degrees. This would give me more clearance on boulders. But I'm stuck now because of the weld on sliders. Yes I "could" cut them off. The scab plates will still be on the frame though and they may interfere with the new sliders when they are welded up higher. Plus just getting underneath the truck and cutting off sliders will be a major pain in the ***.

So my advice to you is think long and hard about what you plan to do with your LC both now and two or three years down the road. Is it a expedition rig now, but maybe you will gravitate more towards rock crawling in a year or two. If you even think for a second your needs or wants may change, I'd go bolt on. You can always take them off and resell them for a good price, at least 50% of what you paid for them if not more.

I'm taking my own advice and going with Metal Tech bolt on sliders for my 80. I want the flexibility and options bolt on sliders give me in a future as I know my idea of a perfect 80 will change over over the years.