mods you wouldnt do again ...
- Thread starter jeffryscott
- Start date
Michael Slade
Untitled
I have been thinking about this one for a few days. About the only things I can think of regretting doing are the front ARB's. I have 3 LR's, all of them have ARB's front *and* back, and honestly I don't know if I've used the ARB's enough to warrant the expense.
The LR carrier is very weak, so as a strength addition the ARB is definitely worth it. I probably could have gotten a 4-pin carrier with nearly the strength of the ARB for a lot less $$$. Would have been a good thing on at least one of the trucks, possibly two of them. The third truck, the 80-inch, absolutely had to have a front ARB. It's been priceless to have.
The CrewCab probably could have done w/out one, the LWB RRC could definitely have gone w/out one, but again, the weakness of the stock 2-pin carrier is the stuff of legend.
The LR carrier is very weak, so as a strength addition the ARB is definitely worth it. I probably could have gotten a 4-pin carrier with nearly the strength of the ARB for a lot less $$$. Would have been a good thing on at least one of the trucks, possibly two of them. The third truck, the 80-inch, absolutely had to have a front ARB. It's been priceless to have.
The CrewCab probably could have done w/out one, the LWB RRC could definitely have gone w/out one, but again, the weakness of the stock 2-pin carrier is the stuff of legend.
Backwoods Rambler
Explorer
1. Thinking I was hardcore enough to warrant flex joints in my front suspension....
2. Then being rushed to finish it "in time" (for what I don't even recall, really important huh) and welding the upper CA mounts at the wrong angle (I just realized this a month or so ago).
I'm about to tear it all apart and redo it using JK control arms to get some "OEM" back, ensure proper geometry and a more comfortable ride. Oh, this time I have my own Daily Driver (not a borrowed one) so I'll be taking all the time I need to get it right
In hindsight, a 4" lift with drop brackets would have been the better choice.
3. Lockrite Auto locker.....only selectables in my future.
4. Hybrid leaf pack....it works, but I'm nervous towing the pop-up with it
5. Poly bushings on the front (already replaced with RE 3 piece, which ride much nicer & quieter)
6. Grease zerks located in impossible to reach areas (drilled, tapped and installed secondary zerks)
2. Then being rushed to finish it "in time" (for what I don't even recall, really important huh) and welding the upper CA mounts at the wrong angle (I just realized this a month or so ago).
I'm about to tear it all apart and redo it using JK control arms to get some "OEM" back, ensure proper geometry and a more comfortable ride. Oh, this time I have my own Daily Driver (not a borrowed one) so I'll be taking all the time I need to get it right
In hindsight, a 4" lift with drop brackets would have been the better choice.
3. Lockrite Auto locker.....only selectables in my future.
4. Hybrid leaf pack....it works, but I'm nervous towing the pop-up with it
5. Poly bushings on the front (already replaced with RE 3 piece, which ride much nicer & quieter)
6. Grease zerks located in impossible to reach areas (drilled, tapped and installed secondary zerks)
too much oil on the K&N dude....I've never had aproblem and until now never heard of one.......lighter on the oil....just a mist.
Root Moose
Expedition Leader
GTABurnout
Explorer
Errors from My Cherokee:
Buying form a rich kid who didn't take care of basic matinence. Truck had a sluge that took several flushes to get out of the cooling system.
Lifting a Cherokee over 2". The thing was slower then anything on the freeway and a hill would almost stop it. Combine that with the dreaded death wobble and you have one hell of a pile of junk.
Buing anything but Currie Steering, I ended up there after a set of cheaper crap blew up in 2 months.
I guess the main thing I learned is do it right the fist time even if it costs more because in the long run it will cost more.
Buying form a rich kid who didn't take care of basic matinence. Truck had a sluge that took several flushes to get out of the cooling system.
Lifting a Cherokee over 2". The thing was slower then anything on the freeway and a hill would almost stop it. Combine that with the dreaded death wobble and you have one hell of a pile of junk.
Buing anything but Currie Steering, I ended up there after a set of cheaper crap blew up in 2 months.
I guess the main thing I learned is do it right the fist time even if it costs more because in the long run it will cost more.
RMP&O
Expedition Leader
Not sure about this....I have a S/C and 7th injector on my 04 Taco. No increase in temps whatsoever. We did install the TRD thermostat though. I would be much less happy with a stock sluggish engine. I love the power increases I have and no regrets at all.
My biggest regret....building a serious offroad truck to fit on a standard trailer. Keeping it a certain width to fit on a certain type of trailer was a mistake. If I could go back....build the truck as best as we can to suit my needs and buy a trailer to suit the truck! Now I need a deck over and wider axles!
michaelgroves
Explorer
Battery split charge system
Too complicated, tried several types.
On my last couple of vehicles, I have simply installed a heavy-duty marine-type twin battery switch. (On a Defender, it can be fitted to the passenger seat-base). Turn the big knob to select Battery 1, Battery 2, Both, or Off.
Simple, it works, no ore blown relays, and you know exactly what's connected and what's being charged at any given time.
On this battery topic, I also found that connecting an Anderson-type connector to my battery (and mounting it somewhere accessible), was very useful. I cut the clamps off one end of a pair of jump-leads, and replaced them with an Anderson plug too.
You can (just) see it here, with a tethered dust cap fitted, and protected by a steel shield underneath it.
Too complicated, tried several types.
On my last couple of vehicles, I have simply installed a heavy-duty marine-type twin battery switch. (On a Defender, it can be fitted to the passenger seat-base). Turn the big knob to select Battery 1, Battery 2, Both, or Off.
Simple, it works, no ore blown relays, and you know exactly what's connected and what's being charged at any given time.
On this battery topic, I also found that connecting an Anderson-type connector to my battery (and mounting it somewhere accessible), was very useful. I cut the clamps off one end of a pair of jump-leads, and replaced them with an Anderson plug too.
You can (just) see it here, with a tethered dust cap fitted, and protected by a steel shield underneath it.
Wyowanderer
Explorer
Installing Rancho shocks instead of Bilsteins the first time.
Buying "lifetime warrantee" brake pads and shoes, only to watch them eat up new rotors and drums.
Installing a fusebox I bought at an RV dealer rather than a serious fusebox (like the Bluesky unit I have now).
Cutting holes in my first rear bumper to mount a fog light and to install my Handyman.
Cutting a 5/8 inch hole in the top of the cab for a CB antenna.
Installing cheap parking brake cables on anything.
Buying and installing a reman carburetor from ANYONE but Holley.
Buying and installing engine gaskets from anyone other than Fel Pro.
Installing a Harmon Kardon tape player and installing it on a trail truck.
But at least I learned.
I also learned that K&N is the French word for garbage/needs to be thrown away. From the oilfield company I worked for.
Ok, Ok, I'll stop.
Frank
Buying "lifetime warrantee" brake pads and shoes, only to watch them eat up new rotors and drums.
Installing a fusebox I bought at an RV dealer rather than a serious fusebox (like the Bluesky unit I have now).
Cutting holes in my first rear bumper to mount a fog light and to install my Handyman.
Cutting a 5/8 inch hole in the top of the cab for a CB antenna.
Installing cheap parking brake cables on anything.
Buying and installing a reman carburetor from ANYONE but Holley.
Buying and installing engine gaskets from anyone other than Fel Pro.
Installing a Harmon Kardon tape player and installing it on a trail truck.
But at least I learned.
I also learned that K&N is the French word for garbage/needs to be thrown away. From the oilfield company I worked for.
Ok, Ok, I'll stop.
Frank
overlander
Expedition Leader
I have always regretted every modification I have ever done to a motor, so I only use oem parts and leave it stock now. More power adds more heat, which requires cooling system changes, which leads to fitment issues, more fabrication, different fans, etc.
I just trust the OEM engineers now
Oh, and the Teflon wheels look **************, but are totally impractical for a trail rig (if you want them to continue to look **************).
I have to go with Scott on this one. Aftermarket changes to the engine also make it increasingly difficult for shop mechanics to work and troubleshoot a vehicle, such as when you are on a long trip and have a road side emergency. Even if you usually do most of your work yourself, when you are without all your shop tools in the middle of no where on an interestate, you will end up relying on a mechanic. With enough modifications, the factory shop manuals no longer apply.
x32792
Adventurer
I have always regretted every modification I have ever done to a motor, so I only use oem parts and leave it stock now. More power adds more heat, which requires cooling system changes, which leads to fitment issues, more fabrication, different fans, etc.
I just trust the OEM engineers now
One thing leads to another.
I appreciate those who have posted their unhappy experiences here.
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SunTzuNephew
Explorer
I've got 4 NMO mounts in each of my vehicles roofs...none of them have ever leaked.