MOPWR Build

Mitch502

Explorer
What size cone is that? Is that the paid version of Torque?

Here is the specs on it. 3" tube/4" cone at the base. Makes a VERY loud swoosh when starting and taking off. Was able to go through some flooded streets here in KY today without worry. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/k-n-universal-rubber-filter-ru-5111/17403630-P?searchTerm=k%26n+filter#fragment-2


It is the paid version of the Torque app. I'm into it for about $30 right now. I'm going to hook it up for the first time in the Jeep tomorrow and get my final dashboard together.



Here are a couple pics from today, first time I've drove it in about a month! I'm excited, and the ride isn't terrible. Off-road may be a different story, but highways and such aren't terrible.







Having fun in the flooded streets, while others are turning back...







For those who don't live in Louisville, this is what yesterday/today was like...
 
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Mitch502

Explorer
Dash bar is mounted, with CB on it. Right now I'm using one of my bump-stop purposed hockey pucks for a bushing (I guess that's what I'll call it) to prevent rattles. I still need to shorten the bolts, but I am extra happy with how this turned out.







I've been having PS problems since I intalled a new PS pump back in November. I don't know if I did something wrong, or what. But apparently O'reilly quit carrying the brand I bought, and although the store clerk didn't say why, I got the vibe it was QC issues. It took me and my dad like 30 mins and a breaker bar to press the pulley onto the old pump. I did this one by myself in under a minute and a small crescent wrench.

I put in the new PS pump, water pump, aluminum radiator, and mounted my PS cooler. Transcooler I pulled off a Durango is too big to fit, so I'll have to get a smaller one.






Here's how rotted my old radiator was. It, surprisingly, wasn't leaking, at least not to the point where is caused a problem. And yes, the bottom fins are completely rotted off.






New aluminum radiator


New thermostat and all new hoses...all rubber on the cooling system is new now except the heater core hoses.

 

Mitch502

Explorer
I also the new heater line that goes from the water pump to the heater core. Of course, it is about 10" shorter than the original one. A new line is $165 from autozone. That's $165 for a 1/2" metal tube about 18" long. I'm going to get a coupler and extend the heater core line up to it. Here is the link to the part...

http://www.autozone.com/cooling-hea...l/hose-heater/dorman-hose-heater-/245186_0_0/

Crazy to think someone would spend $165 for one vs. extending the rubber hose out to meet the $12 part I bought that is shorter.


For those than don't know, the 5.9L came factory with a e-fan. The factory one on mine was burned out, so I modified a Taurus fan motor to fit. They're a dime a dozen, and so popular I don't think the stores will ever quit carrying them. (I have a LT warranty on mine.)

 

Mitch502

Explorer
Also, I still need to tie the brake lines back. I'm open to suggestions for how to do it. Right now I'm thinking of going to the junkyard and just looking for something that might work...
 

Little Foot

Crawler/Overlander
That rack for the dash is a really cool idea. Never seen it before. If I ever add any more gadgets inside that's a great option to keep in mind. Any thought about passenger airbag deployment though?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

monele

Adventurer
I like the dash bar, but you should note that welding anything that is galvanized is bad. The Zinc becomes a neurotoxin when aerosolized and the 1st sign will be a headache. Continued exposure can do permanent damage. See if you can find HREW tubing for future projects for your own health. Oh, and don't buy into the old wive's tale of drinking milk before welding galvanized steel. It doesn't help one bit.

Keep us posted on other cool mods. It is a great looking machine so far!
 

Little Foot

Crawler/Overlander
Good to know...although I've never attempted welding galvanized steel...I now know not to. And if for some reason you have to would a respirator work?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Mitch502

Explorer
I was aware of the dangers of welding galvanized steel. I read into it before working with it, but I will most def. look into HREW, is it similarly priced? It was done with the 2.5 car garage door open and plenty of air movement, as well as very short welds because I suck at welding, LOL. It's actually tacked together in a few spots per joint, and then I used JBWeld to smooth it out, as if it were bondo. I'm sure a proper respirator would work, but I don't know enough about the types of gases vs. masks to know what kind to get.


And as far as the airbag, it deploys OUT, not UP>Out like some. I looked everywhere for pics of a ZJ with bags deployed just to be sure. In addition, if the bag were to catch it somehow, it will rotate up with ease
 

monele

Adventurer
HREW is available at nearly any metal shop, but will likely only come in 20 foot pieces (I just take a battery powered sawzall). It is similarly priced and will be easier to weld (no zinc to create inclusions)

Here's a good discussion of health hazards if you need something to put you to sleep:

http://www.aws.org/library/doclib/EWH-X-1998.pdf
 

Comanche Scott

Expedition Leader
Hey Mitch,

Great job on the Jeep. Really like this model. Had one right behind me on Fin's & Things at Moab. Ran it like a dream with open center differentials.

On your radiator. If it is rubber isolated (i.e. no metal mount to body), it would be worthwhile to run a small gauge wire from the radiator mount bracket to a bare metal spot on the chassis. This will stave off electrolysis, and your radiator will last longer. Just a short piece of 14AWG or 16AWG is fine. Just want a path for current generated by the coolant flow to get to the frame of the vehicle.

Keep on Rockin' it! :beer:
 

Mitch502

Explorer
Hey Mitch,

Great job on the Jeep. Really like this model. Had one right behind me on Fin's & Things at Moab. Ran it like a dream with open center differentials.

On your radiator. If it is rubber isolated (i.e. no metal mount to body), it would be worthwhile to run a small gauge wire from the radiator mount bracket to a bare metal spot on the chassis. This will stave off electrolysis, and your radiator will last longer. Just a short piece of 14AWG or 16AWG is fine. Just want a path for current generated by the coolant flow to get to the frame of the vehicle.

Keep on Rockin' it! :beer:


Thanks for the encouragement.

But on the radiator thing...can you explain this a little more? Never heard of anything like it before?
 

Mitch502

Explorer
Also, the company I purchased my radiator from is going to send me a new radiator since the one I bought is not a direct fit. They're going to send it out as soon as they see activity on the tracking number they sent me to return it with.

RadiatorExpress.com is the company.


Mitch
 

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