MOPWR Build

[Little Foot]

Ummmm...black? Haha I actually would be curious on suggestions I have my rear bumper coming in the next month or so too and it comes unpainted. I was going to use a good durable primer and then some sort of flat black that is also durable and lay it on thick. I've never tackled a bumper before though I have a lot of experience painting smaller parts in the past with good results.0


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[Mitch502]

Ummmm...black? Haha I actually would be curious on suggestions I have my rear bumper coming in the next month or so too and it comes unpainted. I was going to use a good durable primer and then some sort of flat black that is also durable and lay it on thick. I've never tackled a bumper before though I have a lot of experience painting smaller parts in the past with good results.0


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You do have good results, just like your diff cover.

I'm looking at tractor paint as I type this, mostly for the durability.

 

[Little Foot]

Thanks, I was real happy with how those diffs came out, first time using wrinkle coat. We'll see about the durability of the wrinkle coat/flat krylon combo after I do the mojave trail next month but so far it's still looking like I just painted it.

Never even considered tractor paint but that seems like a good idea. My boss at work decided to paint his stream light flashlight with John Deere green tractor paint. Mind you he literally just put it in a bench and sprayed maybe 2 or 3 coats on it with no prep and less than ideal surface/material to adhere to. And I ended up using that flashlight because he bought a new one and it was far better than mine. After a year and a half it mostly retains it's color but has chipped a lot. I use it everyday extensively and it gets exposed to brake spray, coolant, oil, grease, heat from laying in engine bays and gets wedged into places and scraped against brackets, etc. It's pretty tough stuff considering it was applied pretty horribly and sparingly. I'm sure with good prep, primer, and the correct amount of coats it would do well.

Maybe don't go with John Deere green though haha


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[Mitch502]

Haha, yea. Apparently John Deere has a low gloss black that alot of people like. They also sell it in spray cans which would be nice. But I don't mind spraying it with a true gun if that helps. Looks like average dry time "to the touch" is 2 days though....Don't really have a place to store the bumper for 2 days after I paint it, lol.

 

[Little Foot]

I've been using spray cans for so many years I prefer it, I just use fat caps to cover more area (I used to be big on street art so I guess there was a useable crossover to my car hobbies)

The recommended dry/cure time on my wrinkle coat I believe is 48 hours as well...I gave it about 4. When I bolted up the cover and torqued the bolts it did start tearing up the paint and it looked really soft. So it worked but they weren't lying, so for a larger and more visible piece like a bumper I would adhere to their recommendations. I had to get to work in my Jeep the next morning so I had no choice as my usual DD is currently somewhat undriveable.

Do you not have a garage or a friend with one? Worst comes to worst if you are in an apartment or something you could spray it wherever you can and let it cure in your living room for a couple days haha but it's gonna stink the place up. (Been there done that )


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[Mitch502]

I have plenty of access to a garage, but not a garage to spray it in...the dry time to touch the part is 48 hours, and picking up #125 to move it with wet paint sounds like a bad idea...looks like you can add some stuff to it to make it dry faster...a variation of paint thinner or something. Still reading into it. I've painted a car before and it came out very nice IMO for doing it in a driveway w/o a booth.

I'll keep this updated for sure on what I do. I will most likely end up with tractor paint.

 

[Mitch502]

I just remembered I have a gallon of black enamel I got on clearance awhile ago for like $12....I might paint it with that and then clear coat it with enamel rattle cans....sounds like the cheapest route for me right now.

If that falls through I'll be using tractor paint.

 

[Mitch502]

Well, I hit a wall getting the bolts out of the frame to get the bumper on. Going to be an impact only job...getting that out of the way in the morning probably.

I did go out with some friends and flex just a little. Back bumper came into play a lot more than I was expecting, as well as the backspacing on the rims. I still had probably 5" of flex in the front wheel well before rubbing, but the back tire was rubbing on the coil/coil spacer already, as well as hitting the bumper. Here are the poser shots.


You can see here that even in the rear I have a couple more inches, but I need the offset/bumper clearance to make it happen...



From the other side...




Found a dirt mound nearby






Anyone know how long the yoke is on the drive-shaft? How much more do I have before coming out? Should I be worried?

 

[Mitch502]

Also have to do a output shaft seal. It is literally leaking to a point where it is almost a constant drip...

 

[K2ZJ]

From the lip to the end of the splines is 4". Mine had only 1.5" that was clean. Don't know if that is good enough or not.

 

[Mitch502]

How high were you lifted? I would say I have about 1.5-2" showing of "fresh" and "shiny" yoke.

 

[K2ZJ]

~3"?

 

[Mitch502]

~3"?

Alright, hopefully I'm good. In the pic of me on the stairs, the wet spots underneath are spots from the transfer case output shaft leaking. It's pretty bad. Something I have to do soon.

Started building the bumper today, pics coming in a few minutes

 

[Mitch502]

All the pc's laid out.




Progression thus far:







Getting the welder set-up right






Ran out of gas, so had to stop for the day. Work should continue on Friday or so.




Cody approves of the look of bumper

 

[K2ZJ]

Alright, hopefully I'm good. In the pic of me on the stairs, the wet spots underneath are spots from the transfer case output shaft leaking. It's pretty bad. Something I have to do soon.

Started building the bumper today, pics coming in a few minutes

I have had both the seal leak and the shaft itself leak. The plug in the bottom of the splines got hit doing something and oil was coming out spinning out as I drove.