djbonsu
Adventurer
Thanks man! I like that stubby bumper you got there! As far as the parts go, I pretty much got everything except the front sway bar links and fuel tank shortening kit.
MPV Build: 2000 7.3 PSD E350 w/ UJOR
- Thread starter djbonsu
- Start date
Thanks man! I like that stubby bumper you got there! As far as the parts go, I pretty much got everything except the front sway bar links and fuel tank shortening kit.
djbonsu
Adventurer
djbonsu
Adventurer
Engine Maintenance & Upgrades
Alright, so I havent even started on my interior like a planned but my ADD set in and I decided to address some leaks, maintenance and upgrades for the 7.3 motor. Want the van to be in optimal shape when we hit the road so time to tear into the motor. The original plan was to take care of an annoying oil drip I had from oil leaks somewhere in the valley and a boost leak. I think I found my boost leak as the worm clamps on my intake were not very tight. Some new silicone boots and t-clamps should take care of that. Got a majority of parts from riffraff diesel and rockauto which include Bellowed up-pipes with 2” heat wrap, Turbo Re-install/O-ring Kit, FRx, Stainless HPX, Intake Plenum Reinforcements, Air Intake Delete, Complete fuel bowl O-ring kit and fuel filter, Fuel pressure gauge and Schrader valve, Full hpop O-ring kit with hose fitting repair kit, hpop gasket & serviceable hpop plug (longer threads).
Engine Goodies!
My list of tasks:
- Remove Fuel Bowl, Complete Fuel Bowl Re-seal with FRx mod & Schrader valve and Install
- Remove HPOP, Complete HPOP Re-seal & Install
- Install Intake Plenum Reinforcements
- Install Silicone Boots and T-Clamps
- Wrap & Install Bellowed Up-Pipes
- Gut EBPV valve and seal
- Remove Turbo/Pedestal,Replace Turbo & Pedestal O-rings & Install
I really didn’t want to remove the hpop in fear I may damage something and I didn’t have the tool to remove the high pressure oil lines at the pump but once I got the valley open after removing everything else, I noticed how wet it was by the pump. I would have been kicking myself if I didn’t address this and buttoned everything up, soooo out it comes! At this point, I have gotten everything out, cleaned up and re-sealed. I bought the shop manuals and have an electrical reference book for the 2000 Econoline which I highly recommend to anyone doing their own work. I honestly NEVER looked forward to digging into the vans engine for maintenance/upgrades considering the limited space but it honestly has not been that bad. As most say, a good assortment of tools and A LOT of patience will get the job done.
Leaky HPOP out!
HPOP leaking at the discharge fitting....that would explain why it was wet in the valley
Fuel Bowl with FRx & Fuel Pressure Gauge Fitting & AIH Delete
EBPV Gutted
Tapped hole
Bolt threaded and sealed with high temp RTV. Hopefully this holds up or Ill have to get a new pedestal with the EBPV delete
Alright, so I havent even started on my interior like a planned but my ADD set in and I decided to address some leaks, maintenance and upgrades for the 7.3 motor. Want the van to be in optimal shape when we hit the road so time to tear into the motor. The original plan was to take care of an annoying oil drip I had from oil leaks somewhere in the valley and a boost leak. I think I found my boost leak as the worm clamps on my intake were not very tight. Some new silicone boots and t-clamps should take care of that. Got a majority of parts from riffraff diesel and rockauto which include Bellowed up-pipes with 2” heat wrap, Turbo Re-install/O-ring Kit, FRx, Stainless HPX, Intake Plenum Reinforcements, Air Intake Delete, Complete fuel bowl O-ring kit and fuel filter, Fuel pressure gauge and Schrader valve, Full hpop O-ring kit with hose fitting repair kit, hpop gasket & serviceable hpop plug (longer threads).
Engine Goodies!
My list of tasks:
- Remove Fuel Bowl, Complete Fuel Bowl Re-seal with FRx mod & Schrader valve and Install
- Remove HPOP, Complete HPOP Re-seal & Install
- Install Intake Plenum Reinforcements
- Install Silicone Boots and T-Clamps
- Wrap & Install Bellowed Up-Pipes
- Gut EBPV valve and seal
- Remove Turbo/Pedestal,Replace Turbo & Pedestal O-rings & Install
I really didn’t want to remove the hpop in fear I may damage something and I didn’t have the tool to remove the high pressure oil lines at the pump but once I got the valley open after removing everything else, I noticed how wet it was by the pump. I would have been kicking myself if I didn’t address this and buttoned everything up, soooo out it comes! At this point, I have gotten everything out, cleaned up and re-sealed. I bought the shop manuals and have an electrical reference book for the 2000 Econoline which I highly recommend to anyone doing their own work. I honestly NEVER looked forward to digging into the vans engine for maintenance/upgrades considering the limited space but it honestly has not been that bad. As most say, a good assortment of tools and A LOT of patience will get the job done.
Leaky HPOP out!
HPOP leaking at the discharge fitting....that would explain why it was wet in the valley
Fuel Bowl with FRx & Fuel Pressure Gauge Fitting & AIH Delete
EBPV Gutted
Tapped hole
Bolt threaded and sealed with high temp RTV. Hopefully this holds up or Ill have to get a new pedestal with the EBPV delete
djbonsu
Adventurer
HPOP clean and re-sealed with new O-rings
Fuel Pressure Gauge
Got it all back together! Started up on the first try but was a little rough due to air in the oil system probably but worked itself out after a few minutes idling. Aside from a leaking fitting on my fuel pressure gauge, so far so good. Fuel pressure if right at 66 PSI at idle but didnt get to check it while driving around due to the leak. I also have to address the band clamp at the downpipe as I noticed some soot after take it for a spin. Im wondering if the clamps have to be replaced after removing the turbo? I had it pretty tight I thought but I'll re-visit it.
Did I say working on vans isnt that bad?? Yea right...lol. This was by far was very time consuming but worth it. The fuel bowl send, return and discharge o-rings put up a good fight as they were wedged in the fitting pretty good. For some reason I didnt realize that there were high pressure fittings for the oil at the head too which also have o-rings in them but they werent leaking so I hope they stay that way. Other than that, I havent seen any leaks in the valley. One thing to remember is to be very careful when re-installing the gear drive bolt to the HPOP as the washer can fall down in the front cover which would be NO BUENO. I was super nervous as I didnt want to lose the thick washer that sandwiches in between the bolt and gear.Throttle response was the first thing I noticed that has gotten better. She moves about pretty good now.
Next up is the interior which will be pretty basic but I have got to get these Chateau seats and bases installed along with some Raamat and Ensolite Insulation.
djbonsu
Adventurer
Thanks! Hopefully the interior vision will start coming together once i get rid of the partition and get some insulation.
Did I read the first post right in that you will dual purpose this for both business and pleasure? What kind of work do you do out of the van. Also, don't forget to write it all off as a business expense.
Yep, you read right! Lol, I am a DJ and Sound Reinforcement/PA guy for bands/djs/events. So mainly hauling gear around and/or towing huge generators for power needs at outdoor events.
djbonsu
Adventurer
Thanks!
You got that right! I bashed my pinky knuckle multiple times while wrenching lol. Yea after it was all together and running, I noticed my dp was leaking so I changed it. Turbo inlet clamp was fine.
djbonsu
Adventurer
Sound Deadening & Thermal Insulation
Ok Expo, need some guidance if possible.
Im getting ready to remove the partition I have in the van and sound deaden and insulate the interior and doghouse of the van with Raamat & Ensolite. Im a noob with this sound deadening/insulation stuff but some research led me to this combo. Will this combo itself be enough to also thermally insulate the interior? Anyone have any experience with this stuff? Do I need to add reflectix on top of it? Also, about how much this stuff were you all using for an RB E350 van? Thanks in advance!
Ok Expo, need some guidance if possible.
Im getting ready to remove the partition I have in the van and sound deaden and insulate the interior and doghouse of the van with Raamat & Ensolite. Im a noob with this sound deadening/insulation stuff but some research led me to this combo. Will this combo itself be enough to also thermally insulate the interior? Anyone have any experience with this stuff? Do I need to add reflectix on top of it? Also, about how much this stuff were you all using for an RB E350 van? Thanks in advance!
The combo approach is the way to go in my opinion. That way you can combat the many sources of noise, etc.
I use butyl as a base, ensolite over that. Reflectix over the ensolite, and Harbor Freight neoprene flooring over the reflectix.
Use spray 90 or better.
I also did my doghouse with thin felt padding (the stuff with the foil on one side) and butyl, that was a huge help too.
Stuffing the pillars and othe cavities with chunks of scrap foam from the dollar bin at the foam store was another good thing to do.
My RB 350 is much more comfortable now.
Sent via flux capacitor
I use butyl as a base, ensolite over that. Reflectix over the ensolite, and Harbor Freight neoprene flooring over the reflectix.
Use spray 90 or better.
I also did my doghouse with thin felt padding (the stuff with the foil on one side) and butyl, that was a huge help too.
Stuffing the pillars and othe cavities with chunks of scrap foam from the dollar bin at the foam store was another good thing to do.
My RB 350 is much more comfortable now.
Sent via flux capacitor
luthj
Engineer In Residence
Some folks have had good luck using thinsulate SM600L. When glued directly to sheet metal is provides dampening for the panel. It also has good R-value and sound absorbing characteristics.
I had good luck with it as well. Easy to work with, and a good compromise between difficulty, R-value, and cost.
I had good luck with it as well. Easy to work with, and a good compromise between difficulty, R-value, and cost.
Jsweezy
Explorer
Hello, your van is pretty sweet! As far as the sound deadening/ Insulation goes I use Cascade Audios products out of Bend and if you go to Zeronoise.com you can purchase from them and its ships free. I am in no way affiliated with them I just like their products and have had good results. The I-12 is basically the Reflectix with cotton in between to help insulate as opposed to bubble wrap.
I did have a question, Did you decide to go with the 4" lift? I saw in the beginning of your thread you said you ordered the 6" lift but then during your spring install you said you went with 4" rear so it would fit in the garage.
I look forward to seeing some more!
I did have a question, Did you decide to go with the 4" lift? I saw in the beginning of your thread you said you ordered the 6" lift but then during your spring install you said you went with 4" rear so it would fit in the garage.
I look forward to seeing some more!
djbonsu
Adventurer
Thanks for the insight guys!
Thanks Jsweezy! I ended up going with 6" lift up front and 4" out back. I havent measure the height to the roof but it gives me a pretty even stance unloaded and loaded (maybe an ever so slight rake but hardly noticeable) My garage door is only 93" tall so it clears it with an inch or 2 to spare.
Talked to Jason at raamaudio and there seems to be a back order on the raamat bxt II but they hope to be shipping by the end of the week. Gotta alot to do in the next coming month so ill be posting some updates before the big trip in June!