Multimeter recommendations
- Thread starter NorthbyNorthwest
- Start date
sonoronos
Usually broken down on the side of the road
not much to add here in addition to what has already been posted, but i'll say the features that i find the most useful are:
backlight
auto ranging
vdc, vac, resistance
audible continuity
and that's about it for me as far as measuring stuff on a truck goes.
my go-to meter is a 5 year old centech dmm that i got for $13.
backlight
auto ranging
vdc, vac, resistance
audible continuity
and that's about it for me as far as measuring stuff on a truck goes.
my go-to meter is a 5 year old centech dmm that i got for $13.
Last edited:
IdaSHO
IDACAMPER
I run a cheap Sperry clamp meter.
It seems than very few clamp meter will measure Amps in DC.
This one happens to be one of them. I've had it for a few years, and so far seems to be a solid unit, seemingly regardless of price.
https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instr...ocphy=9029641&hvtargid=pla-569028679649&psc=1
It seems than very few clamp meter will measure Amps in DC.
This one happens to be one of them. I've had it for a few years, and so far seems to be a solid unit, seemingly regardless of price.
https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instr...ocphy=9029641&hvtargid=pla-569028679649&psc=1
IdaSHO
IDACAMPER
This should help.
I know when shopping for this one I had a hell of a time because many sellers did not use the correct photo for the listing.
The model # for the unit I have is DSA540A
https://www.sperryinstruments.com/en/clamp_meter_group#COMPARE
Incredibly useful for checking draws, large or small, without interrupting the circuit.
I know when shopping for this one I had a hell of a time because many sellers did not use the correct photo for the listing.
The model # for the unit I have is DSA540A
https://www.sperryinstruments.com/en/clamp_meter_group#COMPARE
Incredibly useful for checking draws, large or small, without interrupting the circuit.
s.e.charles
Well-known member
verdesard0g
Search and Rescue first responder
IdaSHO
IDACAMPER
Yep, and is extremely handy, especially for vehicle and camper builds that are battery dependent.
For years I have run using the current rating that the MFG provides for devices (fridge, lighting. radio, etc) for amp hour calcs.
Now I know exactly what each device draws when starting/running. And gives me a good base line for troubleshooting down the road.
Solved a "simple" refrigerator issue a few months ago. What was originally thought to be an electrical or compressor issue was little more than a pinched/rolled door seal.
For years I have run using the current rating that the MFG provides for devices (fridge, lighting. radio, etc) for amp hour calcs.
Now I know exactly what each device draws when starting/running. And gives me a good base line for troubleshooting down the road.
Solved a "simple" refrigerator issue a few months ago. What was originally thought to be an electrical or compressor issue was little more than a pinched/rolled door seal.
FlipperFla
Active member
Retired Broadcast Techie here! I have had a Fluke 77 my whole career that has been thru hell and back and has never missed a beat, still have it. Bought 2 of the little clamp-on style meters that are pretty nice with no issues at Harbor Freight for around $15 ea. Keep them in the Wifes car and boat tool boxes. If you have the $ go with a Fluke.
sonoronos
Usually broken down on the side of the road
I've been looking at the EEVBlog forums, and it looks like the Uni-T mini clampmeters seem to have some neat features for someone looking for an "all-in-one" clampmeter and DMM, which can measure current down to the mA. Fairly cheap and small enough keep anywhere.
Here's a blog post summarizing the options:
gr33nonline.wordpress.com
Here's a blog post summarizing the options:
Feeling the need to clamp
Preamble After watching Balance Charging: Can you parallel charge?, I realised that I needed a clamp meter. But which one? I had already purchased a UNI-T UT71D DMM, see Choosing which Multimeter t…
gr33nonline.wordpress.com
67cj5
Man On a Mission
Funny you should say that because I use to use those UNI-T brand meters until I got a slight difference in their reading So at the Time I went to the main Importers here in the UK and bought the top of the line model which was the Fluke 179 and with less than 25 hours use The Bleep feature has stopped working and I can't work out how to get the back light to stay On, At nearly 7X the price of the UNI-T DMM I thought they were the best thing since sliced bread but alas NOT, and the UNI-T is still going strong, It's a shame because I loved that Fluke 179 and I have treated it with Kid Gloves and it still let me down, I still have it but I am not impressed,
67cj5
Man On a Mission
Yeah it's a work of art, But now I need to send it in to get fixed, I cost me £336.00 which is about $440.00 back about 10 years ago, It still works but the bleep has stopped working and even though I had not used it in a while I turned it on to find the main fuse had blown yet it worked fine when I put it away, I have sort of lost faith in Fluke products after buying the best money can buy and it just lets me down and in all honesty I think a person can get by quite well buying a 50/60$$ meter from UNI-T because you can buy 8 of them for the cost of my Fluke 179.
67cj5
Man On a Mission
No It's the real deal, because I went to the Fluke Importers to buy it and I get the full Tour of their Calibration house and everything and I got their address from Fluke U.S.A.