Stryder106
Explorer
That's kind of the idea. You know anyone who needs two fully featured and functional 2002 Avalanche NFE front seats?
My 02 Avalanche NFE
- Thread starter Stryder106
- Start date
That's kind of the idea. You know anyone who needs two fully featured and functional 2002 Avalanche NFE front seats?
moderndaynorseman
Active member
Any updates on the center console build? Awesome looking rig by the way!
Stryder106
Explorer
I haven't posted in here in awhile - oops. Thanks - I need to upload the pics of updates from my phone.
Along the pic angle - I have entered this picture I took of my Avalanche into the Overland Expo Best Shot 2019 contest. The pic is last August, sunrise in the Hart Mountain National Antelope Refuge in southern Oregon. If you like it, I'd appreciate you using the link and voting for me. I need 100 votes to make it into the next round. https://www.overlandexpo.com/bestshot
Along the pic angle - I have entered this picture I took of my Avalanche into the Overland Expo Best Shot 2019 contest. The pic is last August, sunrise in the Hart Mountain National Antelope Refuge in southern Oregon. If you like it, I'd appreciate you using the link and voting for me. I need 100 votes to make it into the next round. https://www.overlandexpo.com/bestshot
Stryder106
Explorer
Well - I made the semi-finals, but apparently not the finals. I guess they liked the staged lighting and fireworks pictures better. Thanks for voting for me.
Stryder106
Explorer
After a long absence (just busy with life), it's time to catch y'all up on some updates to the Av. WE left off at installing the Scheelmann Seats - but having to figure out the center console because the arm rests on the seats are too wide and don't allow them to sit down properly. So, fabbed up a low profile metal console that actually has more storage in it than my original. Check it out.
The two outer switches above the cupholders are the seat heater rockers. Yes - seat heaters in the Scheelmann seats. Both high and low settings. In Flagstaff AZ over New Year's and it was 0f outside - these suckers came in really handy.
The two outer switches above the cupholders are the seat heater rockers. Yes - seat heaters in the Scheelmann seats. Both high and low settings. In Flagstaff AZ over New Year's and it was 0f outside - these suckers came in really handy.
Stryder106
Explorer
Sticking with the interior theme. I have never - not once - used my CB. Since I now have a ham and hand helds and I HATED the CB antenna waving in my face while driving,. I decided to remove it. I had previously mounted the external Wedgie speaker where my OnStar cluster used to be. So - that was removed and in that place, I relocated the ARB fridge monitor (Rayra suggestion from 2017 - see, I listen). I still need to put in some trim face to clean it up. Also added in a red LED wired to automatically come on with the vehicle lights to illuminate the toggle switches - much easier to see them now.
BEFORE
AFTER
BEFORE
AFTER
Stryder106
Explorer
To finish off the Scheelmann seats, my AV is an NFE that came with the two day packs with quick disconnect clips and hung on the rear seats. I really like those and use them. My driver's side holds all of the air inflation stuff while the passenger side holds a pretty comprehensive first aid kit. The new seats do not have the integrated clips, so I made my own. I also made an extension for the bottom so that when I fold the seats down, I can still attach the backpacks in a way that I can fully access them and quickly remove them if need be.
It is amazing to me how much little stuff I carry - but use on almost every trip. Things as simple as an ink pen, Sharpie, or Bic lighter (why on earth people use striking rods is beyond me). So, I found these visor organizers on Amazon and they work really well. Map pockets, and the bigger Molle pouch I attached is for the InReach.
Finishing up the seat info - I installed mounts for my flashlight. Oh - and to get around the integrated seat belts, I used Corbeau seatbelts and appropriate hardware welded into the B pillar- but Scheelman just came out with a seat with an integrated seat belt if you guys go that route.
It is amazing to me how much little stuff I carry - but use on almost every trip. Things as simple as an ink pen, Sharpie, or Bic lighter (why on earth people use striking rods is beyond me). So, I found these visor organizers on Amazon and they work really well. Map pockets, and the bigger Molle pouch I attached is for the InReach.
Finishing up the seat info - I installed mounts for my flashlight. Oh - and to get around the integrated seat belts, I used Corbeau seatbelts and appropriate hardware welded into the B pillar- but Scheelman just came out with a seat with an integrated seat belt if you guys go that route.
Attachments
Stryder106
Explorer
My Av is now 17 years old. My original factory fuel pump lasted 12 years and 112,000 miles before it died. The replacement aftermarket pump lasted only 1 year and 6,000 miles before it died (do not use Airtex). So, 4 years ago, I had a new AC Delco factory fuel pump put back in it. But I'm now at 198,500 miles so I'm conscious of another fuel pump failure - the impact if it happens while remote and the PITA to drop a fuel tank laying in the desert or mud. So, something that has been on my "To Do" list for quite some time was to install an access panel under the rear seat so that I can access that fuel pump from the top and not have to drop the tank. Tah-Dah - done son.
Folding the carpet back down, you can barely tell there is a cut.
Somewhere I read that you can pick up just a replacement electric motor for the fuel pump rather than having to carry a fuel unit (it is pretty big). Rayra - was that you who posted that? If so - I need info. Time to add to my spares kit.
Folding the carpet back down, you can barely tell there is a cut.
Somewhere I read that you can pick up just a replacement electric motor for the fuel pump rather than having to carry a fuel unit (it is pretty big). Rayra - was that you who posted that? If so - I need info. Time to add to my spares kit.
Stryder106
Explorer
That's enough love for the interior. Time to bounce outside. On my last major overland trip - month long and 4754 miles - I did some deep sand driving and aired down to 15psi. It made me a little nervous thinking I might slip a bead as I was running the Pro Comp Rockwell wheels with a faux beadlock - not a real one. Well, as I've gotten more serious about this longer duration, longer distance overlanding gig I've also gotten more serious about the gear I carry and how my truck is equipped. With that said, I decided to bite the bullet and change wheels. Beadlocks bring the upside of locking the tire to the wheel so slipping the bead is 100% mitigated, but they bring a lot of negatives: most are not DOT approved, they are heavy, changing the tire is a beyotch, if you have the tire changed it costs double.
I also considered going to a steel wheel (seems to be the thing on real overland rigs (read that as older Land Rovers). But, research revealed they are actually not as strong as modern aluminum wheels, are heavier, and are prone to rusting around the edge - which causes air leaks. The primary benefit of the steel wheel is that it will bend not break, and if you bend it you can hammer it back into shape (roughly) - so it makes it more field repairable compared to aluminum wheel which will break. I submit that if that happens, it's going to be really hard to get it to reseat and hold air for any length of time - unless it is only a minor bend. But, that's also why I carry a full spare tire and wheel, not just a tire. So, after doing a ton of research, I landed on the Method Racing 701 wheels. They are rugged, designed specifically for trail use, have a 2650# per wheel rating, have a reinforced inner lip, and have a patented feature called Bead Grip - which is an increasing series of ridges inside of BOTH the outer and inner rim edges to hold the tire bead in place under very low air pressure situations. It also increases the force to pop the bead by 952% over a non-Bead Grip wheel. So - I bit the bullet and my Avalanche is now sporting these bad boys - along with a new set of General Tire Grabber X3s (my favorite tire by a wide margin). What do you guys think?
Bead Grip
I also considered going to a steel wheel (seems to be the thing on real overland rigs (read that as older Land Rovers). But, research revealed they are actually not as strong as modern aluminum wheels, are heavier, and are prone to rusting around the edge - which causes air leaks. The primary benefit of the steel wheel is that it will bend not break, and if you bend it you can hammer it back into shape (roughly) - so it makes it more field repairable compared to aluminum wheel which will break. I submit that if that happens, it's going to be really hard to get it to reseat and hold air for any length of time - unless it is only a minor bend. But, that's also why I carry a full spare tire and wheel, not just a tire. So, after doing a ton of research, I landed on the Method Racing 701 wheels. They are rugged, designed specifically for trail use, have a 2650# per wheel rating, have a reinforced inner lip, and have a patented feature called Bead Grip - which is an increasing series of ridges inside of BOTH the outer and inner rim edges to hold the tire bead in place under very low air pressure situations. It also increases the force to pop the bead by 952% over a non-Bead Grip wheel. So - I bit the bullet and my Avalanche is now sporting these bad boys - along with a new set of General Tire Grabber X3s (my favorite tire by a wide margin). What do you guys think?
Bead Grip
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Stryder106
Explorer
If any of you guys are local and are in need - I'll sell my old wheels and tires: Pro Comp Rockwell 17" x 8.5" with 4.75" backspace and 0 offset with General Tire Grabber X3s mounted - 65%-70% tread left - no patches or plugs. $1000 for all 5.
Stryder106
Explorer
While we are on the exterior, I had been getting a lot of noise from my rear suspension. RATTLING but then something else, the rear diff felt like it was actually moving during acceleration and braking. Well - it turns out it was moving. The bolt holes for the trailing arms had worn out of round and caused some play. The rattling is attributed to the heim joints used in the rear upper and lower trailing arms. So, more research and I found what is called an F1 fit heim joint. These are so stiff it essentially takes the weight of the vehicle to move them. Installed and no more rattle.
As for the holes being out of round. Welded in steel washers, put in Grade 8 hardware, fabbed a really precise high misalignment spacer - essentially upgraded, reinforced and precision fit all of the parts. Everything now fits really nice and tight. Much more solid and purpose built.
The other thing that I had previously done - if you recall when I broke the rear shock in my Robby Gordon moment, I had mentioned that the replacement bump stops are much smaller than the factory ones and that allowed my suspension to overcompress. Well, fabbed up aluminum spacers and attached to rear diff to decrease the amount of compression - you can spot them between the shock and the spring. Also changed the reservoirs to adjustable so I run those on full loose when empty (0/10) and on 8/10 when loaded to slow down the compression.
Also note the ARB diff cover. This spreads load. I had to grind the interior of it to fit as it was hitting the locker - but ARB told me to do that.
As for the holes being out of round. Welded in steel washers, put in Grade 8 hardware, fabbed a really precise high misalignment spacer - essentially upgraded, reinforced and precision fit all of the parts. Everything now fits really nice and tight. Much more solid and purpose built.
The other thing that I had previously done - if you recall when I broke the rear shock in my Robby Gordon moment, I had mentioned that the replacement bump stops are much smaller than the factory ones and that allowed my suspension to overcompress. Well, fabbed up aluminum spacers and attached to rear diff to decrease the amount of compression - you can spot them between the shock and the spring. Also changed the reservoirs to adjustable so I run those on full loose when empty (0/10) and on 8/10 when loaded to slow down the compression.
Also note the ARB diff cover. This spreads load. I had to grind the interior of it to fit as it was hitting the locker - but ARB told me to do that.
Stryder106
Explorer
Not you? Hmm - I know I saw that somewhere and would have sworn it was you.