My 1990 Chevy K1500

[chilliwak]

I really like the old school stuff. I can bebuild a Rochester Quadrajet but am completly lost when people start asking me about codes. I once had a truck in the bush that started to run rough. It turned out that the rod on the carb that actuated the 4 barrels had fallen off. I went back into the canopy and grabed an old coat hanger and fashioned a rod of the same size and form. It worked so well that I did not replace it for 4 years. I am always waiting to hear from the guys that have the satelite phone that can call in an aricraft/helicopter team complete with dianostic equipment ready to repair their computer controlled vehicles. Dont get me wrong, computers are great. I have one in my living room where it belongs. Cheers, Chilli... ?

 

[vargsmetal]

If a quadrajet from my 78 C20 shows up on your doorstep could you make it work right? Hahaha

The 78 has been my daily driver while the ext cab has been down for the engine/trans swap. It has the original 350/TH350 with 85k on it. Starts right up with one pump but seems super rich to me. Gas mileage is horrible. Fast idle sticks on longer than it needs too. Just the usual carb issues. I've cleaned the linkages, but it needs more than that.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[chilliwak]

Lets start by saying, WOW what a nice truck you have there! I could fix that for you sir in a jiffy. You need a carb kit with all the gaskets to do it right. You also need to be able to dismantle the carb and clean it with a corrosive carb cleaner fluid to get rid off all the deposits. Then you rebuild it with all the new parts and adjust the float level. Then she runs like a top. You can also buy a brand new Edelbrock carb for $150 and install the adapter plate and be good to go. Plug and play with no headaches. Cheers, Chilli... ?

 

[vargsmetal]

Lets start by saying, WOW what a nice truck you have there! I could fix that for you sir in a jiffy. You need a carb kit with all the gaskets to do it right. You also need to be able to dismantle the carb and clean it with a corrosive carb cleaner fluid to get rid off all the deposits. Then you rebuild it with all the new parts and adjust the float level. Then she runs like a top. You can also buy a brand new Edelbrock carb for $150 and install the adapter plate and be good to go. Plug and play with no headaches. Cheers, Chilli...

Thanks Chilli! I love the 78. I got super lucky to be able to buy it when I did. It's got the usual body rust issues, but the frame is immaculate and the running gear is solid. Where can I find the edelbrock for $150? That sounds like the way to go.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[chilliwak]

Thanks Chilli! I love the 78. I got super lucky to be able to buy it when I did. It's got the usual body rust issues, but the frame is immaculate and the running gear is solid. Where can I find the edelbrock for $150? That sounds like the way to go.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

I found one at my local parts store but I am sure there would be a sale at Summit which is available online all over the USA. Just google it and I am sure you can find a deal. Cheers, Chilli... ?

 

[vargsmetal]

We sanded down the rack and got some primer on it last night. I'm using krylon red oxide primer, and it will be followed up with Krylon satin black and clear coat. Need to get that done this week because this weekend we're having a bbq at the house so everyone will help us put the RTT on.

I've been driving the truck everywhere all week and it has been working great. I need to work out the clearance issue with the front driveshaft and put that in to test the 4wd soon. There was also a slight leak on the front output shaft of the transfer case I need to investigate. If that's the biggest issue I have to deal with with this swap I'm calling it a huge win.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[96Suburban]

Coming along great! I love seeing people use the GMT400 trucks for overland adventure rigs.

 

[vargsmetal]

Coming along great! I love seeing people use the GMT400 trucks for overland adventure rigs.

Its definitely an underrated platform for a cheap, comfortable, dependable offroader. If 285s will get you where you need to go there is nothing wrong at all with the IFS. I love the squarebodies for the solid front axle but the lack of an ext cab for dry storage and space for the dog make them a non-starter for my needs. If I was honest, starting with a GMT800 2500HD would've made more sense as far as what my time is worth but I have very little money in this truck even with the new drivetrain.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[vargsmetal]

I got the first coat of black on the rack last night. Time to flip it over for more black and then some sanding, more black, and finally some clear coat. I'm just using regular Krylon spray cans.

I also fixed the forward gas tank strap I was struggling with and then went and put around 200 highway miles on the truck. It ran great with no issues. My autometer trans temp guage didnt seem to be working right. It read under 150 the whole time so I'm guessing the test port in the side of the trans isn't a good spot for the temp sensor. Only other problem is I need to adjust the exhaust hangers as it is rattling against one of the crossmembers.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[Buddha.]

With the big trans cooler that just might be your temp. On my 6.0 2011 2500 that's about what my dash readout says in normal driving. The highest I've ever seen it was towing my 9,000lb travel trailer out west, at altitude, with a headwind. My temp maxed out at about 185f. That was at about 65f ambient temp.

 

[vargsmetal]

With the big trans cooler that just might be your temp. On my 6.0 2011 2500 that's about what my dash readout says in normal driving. The highest I've ever seen it was towing my 9,000lb travel trailer out west, at altitude, with a headwind. My temp maxed out at about 185f. That was at about 65f ambient temp.

Interesting. I need to see if I can find a scan tool that will give me the trans temp readout from the PCM with the sensor on the valve body. If that agrees with the autometer setup I'll call it a win.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[vargsmetal]

I worked on some more wiring tonight. The only thing not working inside the truck so far has been the HVAC. I deleted the AC long before the engine swap because it had long since leaked out and several components needed to be replaced. Now, the AC compressor location on the 5.3L is impossible to fit between the frame rails on these trucks so you need to run high mount brackets and such. I may do it later but for right now I just needed to figure out why I had no power to the controls for heat/vents.

Looking at the schematics I found that although the HVAC is fed through a fuse in the dashboard fuse box, it also had a direct battery feed from the original fusible link terminal block setup on the firewall. I found the power wire under the glovebox where I had pulled the TBI harness out, spliced it to a new wire and run across the dash and out to my MIDI fuse block.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[vargsmetal]

We got the RTT on it today!

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[chilliwak]

Wow that looks good. I would like to see pics of that tent folded out and in use in some scenic background out in the bush. Cheers, Chilli... ?

 

[vargsmetal]

Wow that looks good. I would like to see pics of that tent folded out and in use in some scenic background out in the bush. Cheers, Chilli...

Soon! The first trip starts June 7th. Still have a lot of work to do but it's getting there. I'm sure I'm boring the few people following this thread with all the wiring posts.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk