My 2001 Pathfinder (R50 ) mild/budget build

[stioc]

Thanks Slicky72. Yeah like with most things rake is also a personal preference like black wheels vs. silver, loud exhaust vs. quiet etc. More or less even with a very subtle drop in the rear works for me personally. I used to not like the desert runner looking trucks you find in the Home Depot parking lots- unless it truly is a Baja 500 truck. However, I don't like the excessive stink bug look either.

BTW, the pic above is on a steep driveway so the rear looks more squatted than it is.

 

[Slicky72]

How is the ride with the new springs?

 

[stioc]

The ride feels fine actually. I've only heard the top-out clunks a couple of times going over bumps.

I got the camber down to + .25degs, I couldn't do better- but it's a lot better than it was right after the install (+1.75degs on the driver side and +1.3degs on the passenger side ). I'll probably leave it like this for a week or two and then go get a proper alignment done at the shop.

I also ran the air line for my rear ARB locker and bench tested it for the first time and it woiks!! So another busy afternoon in the garage but oh so satisfying too. I'm hoping to get the wiring and compressor installed by the end of next weekend.

Xplorx4, if you're out there do you recall where you tapped into the 12v (15AMP) circuit for the compressor and for the light illumination?

 

[XPLORx4]

I actually don't remember exactly where I tapped into power for the lighted switches. However, on my Pathy, there's a lighted ring around the cigarette lighter port, and there is also a light for the transmission gear indicator on the console. Either of those should be sufficient to provide power to the lighted switches.

For the compressor, I ran a new 10AWG wire directly from the compressor to the fuse block behind the battery. To keep things cleaner, I opened up the fuse/relay box, ran the wire alongside the stock harness and into the fuse block. There's a threaded post on the right side of the fuse block where the positive battery cable attaches. On the underside of this post, remove the nut to attach a solderless ring terminal crimped to the end of the 10AWG wire that goes to your compressor.

If you opted to install your compressor behind the left rear cargo panel, I my advice would be to run some 4AWG audio amp wiring directly from the battery all the way back to that area, with its fuse mounted near the engine-bay fuse block. At the terminus of the wire in the rear cargo panel, attach another distribution block. Then you can add all sorts of other moderately high-current-draw accessories from this distribution block, without having to run multiple lengths of smaller-gauge wire back there with each new accessory.

 

[stioc]

That helps, thank you! I'll let you know how it goes.

 

[duckhunter71]

The new lift looks amazing, Russell! I'm Jonesing for a R50 now!

 

[kjp1969]

That helps, thank you! I'll let you know how it goes.

If you have a 7 pin trailer socket, you should have a 40 amp charge circuit to the rear bumper that is energized only when the engine is on. You might remember that I ran my MV50 compressor off of a 7-pin plug on the Mojave road trip. That would be my first choice for high amp power to the rear of the vehicle.

 

[stioc]

That's a super idea Kevin, I do have both 4 and 7 pin trailer plugs but I have no idea if they're factory (the 7 pin looks added on), the amps and whether they even work or not. I guess I'll buy a trailer next to make use of them :coffeedrink:

In all seriousness I think I'm going to install the little ARB compressor under the hood, at least that's the plan so far and how I ran the air hose. Stay tuned.

 

[stioc]

The new lift looks amazing, Russell! I'm Jonesing for a R50 now!

Thanks but does it really look all that different? I thought the change was noticable but nothing drastic. I appreciate the compliment though

And you've got a very nice and clean rig yourself and way more aftermarket support than the R50 so get to it and start modd'ing

 

[stioc]

It's funny that lately I find myself buying things for the truck that I didn't think I would normally consider- because they're either not my cup of tea, bad reputation or poor experience in the past. In my younger racing days I wasted money trying to prove various claims for more horsepower from things such as the K&N type cone filters. They never made any noticable difference instead to add insult to injury I was now spending time cleaning and oiling them that I didn't have to before. It was also mucking up my MAF/AFM from the greasy mess. So what did I learn from this experience? well, nothing, nothing at all because I ordered the JWT pop charger about a week ago :chef:

I got it this Tue and *finally* lol installed it Thu night. The installation is supposed to be failry straight forward but I believe the bracket included wasn't the correct type for the VQ engine bay. I tried various ways to use it and it just didn't work so I ended up bending it differently and that worked out fine. I also had to remove the charcol canister (?) that mounts to the stock air filter housing and relocate it (you can see it in the pic next to the filter). Took about 35mins start to end.

OK so it's not entirely true that I didn't learn anything from past experience. For one thing, these kits have evolved from "find the closest inlet/outlet size of the $30 cone filter and clamp it on" to more vehicle specific kits that include appropriate hardware (usually) and at least some R&D behind them like the venturi plate of the JWT kit. However, my reason for getting it had nothing to do with performance gains- in fact, I didn't expect any noticeable difference from it on the mighty VQ engine other than perhaps better throttle response. My own reasoning for it was two folds:

• First the stock filter opening sits way too low in the bumper and at times I've been scared about sucking water straight into the engine. Now a snorkle would've been a better option but I couldn't justify it since there are no lakes to cross to get to work everyday- I even checked the maps. Kidding aside this will minimize the risk of water damage present with the stock filter.
• Second, and more immediately was my need for room in the very cramped VQ engine bay so I could mount the small air compressor for the locker. I stole the idea from XPLORx4 and this gives me just enough room to shoe-horn the compressor in (which I plan to do this weekend).

As a side benefit revving the VQ makes similar sounds as the 3.5L Z which uses the same base engine - though the sound isn't very obvious from the cabin because I usually don't rev to 5000rpm while driving.

 

[Lecoq]

Looking good. Should've got a snorkel anyways lol.

Just because.:smiley_drive:

 

[duckhunter71]

Thanks but does it really look all that different? I thought the change was noticable but nothing drastic. I appreciate the compliment though

And you've got a very nice and clean rig yourself and way more aftermarket support than the R50 so get to it and start modd'ing

It's not a drastic change, but the stance you have now is the stance I prefer.. just looks good!

I am knee deep in a house remodel, so anything else for the Frontier will just have to wait a bit! Meanwhile, I'm just going to mod vicariously through you and all the other R50 guys on here! :sombrero:

 

[Allof75]

Nice little mod! Reminds me of the CAI we threw on our Magnum R/T back in 05, minus the heat shield. And our truck has one too, from AEM- pretty good flow with a nice little whistle.

For my pathy I just put in a drop-in K&N and called it a day, because I want to say the intake has some funny routing, but is actually not super low- it has baffles like a toilet bowl, which I'm sure restrict flow, but seem to prevent water intrusion. I've been in water up to the top of the bumper, and no large amount got in there, other than what was splashed by the fan. So I'm interested if your open filter really makes a difference, it seems like it would make it easier to get soaked.

I'm curious though, you said you had to keep oiling the filters in your racing days- how much racing were you doing then? Because K&N at least only recommends oiling every 50k I believe.

And agreed on the VQ noise, now throw a Magnaflow on there, you don't know what you're missing. :smiley_drive:

 

[stioc]

Looking good. Should've got a snorkel anyways lol.

Just because.:smiley_drive:

Hmmm may be at some point in future but not in the plans so far :snorkel:

It's not a drastic change, but the stance you have now is the stance I prefer.. just looks good!

I am knee deep in a house remodel, so anything else for the Frontier will just have to wait a bit! Meanwhile, I'm just going to mod vicariously through you and all the other R50 guys on here! :sombrero:

Smart man! house remodels at least have a better pay off in the end than a truck remodel.

Nice little mod! Reminds me of the CAI we threw on our Magnum R/T back in 05, minus the heat shield. And our truck has one too, from AEM- pretty good flow with a nice little whistle.

For my pathy I just put in a drop-in K&N and called it a day, because I want to say the intake has some funny routing, but is actually not super low- it has baffles like a toilet bowl, which I'm sure restrict flow, but seem to prevent water intrusion. I've been in water up to the top of the bumper, and no large amount got in there, other than what was splashed by the fan. So I'm interested if your open filter really makes a difference, it seems like it would make it easier to get soaked.

I'm curious though, you said you had to keep oiling the filters in your racing days- how much racing were you doing then? Because K&N at least only recommends oiling every 50k I believe.

And agreed on the VQ noise, now throw a Magnaflow on there, you don't know what you're missing. :smiley_drive:

Haha! I know they recommend 30-50k for cleaning but they look gross and clogged up well before that. I think I was cleaning them every other oil change (10k miles) but then I used to be a bit more obsessive compulsive

I haven't crossed water up to the top of the bumper but I've crossed water higher than the axles and lived to tell about it. The filter really wasn't in the plans until I desperately needed to make some room in the engine compartment and realizing the intake situation I see it as a good dual purpose upgrade and an alternative to a potentially expensive repair bill.

 

[stioc]

It's ALIVE!

The only thing is that the solenoid exhausts right on the filter- I guess I won't need to re-oil it as much now lol

Oh and I ran the power straight to the battery so the circuit is hot all the time, I'll probably add a relay or something in the future...same time when I build a proper mounting plate for the switches but for now I'm happy that I can finally use the locker :wings: