My 4x4 Bluebird - [UNNAMED]

RoosterBooster

Observer
if it would be my rig (its not ;) ) i think i would seriously consider to swap to a single rear tire like the General Grabber OA wide base 385/65/22.5.
inflated diameter of the OA is 42.4" . compared to the ~ 44" of the tall 24.5 front tires this should also work with the 4.78/4.88 gears.
imho dual rears are a pain in rocky terrain (wrestling rocks out of between tires with the crowbar gets old quickly)
... and on top of that you cut down on rolling resistance & un-suspended mass (1 OA with 12" wide single aluminum rim is ~225 lbs where a dual 24.5 with 8.75" rims is ~ 360 lbs)
 
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RepairmanSki

Observer
if it would be my rig (its not ;) ) i think i would seriously consider to swap to a single rear tire like the General Grabber OA wide base 385/65/22.5.
inflated diameter of the OA is 42.4" . compared to the ~ 44" of the tall 24.5 front tires this should also work with the 4.78/4.88 gears.
imho dual rears are a pain in rocky terrain (wrestling rocks out of between tires with the crowbar gets old quickly)
... and on top of that you cut down on rolling resistance & un-suspended mass (1 OA with 12" wide single aluminum rim is ~225 lbs where a dual 24.5 with 8.75" rims is ~ 360 lbs)

There's nothing wrong with this idea at all. The wheels/tires would need to be the other way round though, smaller tire on the faster gear in this case, the front. I have no personal experience with wrestling out wedged rocks, but I can imagine it's a drag.

If I switch tire sizes either fore or aft I'd need to carry 2 full size spares. As it is right now, I have one spare with me at all times =) It's a near paralyzing myriad of options. I think my best way forward, both financially and sanity-wise, is to attempt to match gears and change as little as possible while doing it. Singles aren't out of the question, but with only 2k miles on these tires I don't think I could justify changing them now.

Either way, I appreciate everyone weighing in on the matter, providing advice and options. Having a resource like ExPo available is invaluable so thanks.
 

RepairmanSki

Observer
re: planning

JS, this is from post #18

Putting a 4.88 rear end in looks to be just about ideal. With the Allison 545 tranny I'll get 65mph @ ~2450 RPM and by swapping in a Cummins 6BT with a 47RE I'll get 65mph @ 1680RPM. I can't really ask for better swapover conditions.

That being said, a 4.78 is just as good as 4.88. The folks at EmWest are currently working on matching drawings to see if they can re-use my 7.17 carrier. I hope to hear back from them in a couple hours.

To answer your other question(s), the brakes are drum/air. I'm not entirely sure what the transfer case is, I'll keep searching and edit it in when I find it.

The transfer is a Rockwell T226 @ 1.99:1 (And apparently worth ~$3k used, nice!)
 
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RepairmanSki

Observer
It's looking like the gear swap is a bust. The only option down that path is a full front axle swap. Not bloody likely.

The plan has evolved somewhat. I'm considering the short-term addition of a bolt on overdrive unit (Brown-Lipe, brownie box, etc.). Most are available with 2.00 underdrive and .8x or .7x overdrive. That would temporarily solve my speed/RPM issues on the gas motor.

Long term plans are for a Cummins 6CT or a CAT 3116 mated to an Allison 3000 series transmission. I'm looking for an engine/trans combo from a current installation rather that attempting to adapter/fab my way into a fit. My likely candidates are other buses because they generally go so cheaply at surplus auction.

I would really like to get the OD unit together in time for overland ExPo in Flagstaff, but we'll see. By the time I find/buy/install one, I may have spent my travel funds for the summer.

Back to the bus though, I finally secured an appointment with the State Patrol for an inspection so I can change the CA title to my name as a motorhome instead of an automobile. That happens tomorrow, fingers crossed!
 

RepairmanSki

Observer
Thanks for the well wishes ersatz, but it twas not to be. I wasn't able to get insurance coverage in time and there's no way in hell I was going to a State Patrol inspection without proof of insurance. I'm actually glad it happened like it did, because there should be no reason to get an inspection at this point.

From my reading in the RCW's (relevant laws for my area) I only need in inspection if major components have been changed or repaired. We're talking engines, transmissions, differentials etc. What I'm looking for, and anyone else in my predicament, is a change of use-class. This should be a simple matter of asking the license agency to produce the requirements for changing use-class (this info is apparently not available publicly) and having the necessary blocks checked.

Under no circumstance should you prompt the license agent about an inspection, just ******** and let the info flow one-way.
 

Ford Prefect

Expedition Leader
I would personally mention that I think it good to keep the duals on the back.

I have driven dump trucks for a few years, and I was constantly getting rocks in there. It really is not a big deal. Just carry a chain with you that is long enough to reach from the back tip of the rear tire to the front tip of the front tire plus a couple feet. (hook on each end of the chain).

Then you roll the tire until the rock is facing the front tire, wrap the chain around it, and place the other end under the front tire. Back up, rock pops out. Now you are better off if someone can watch the rock and see if it might damage the tire (rare). If it is sharp and may damage the tire a few good blows with a five lbs hand held sledge hammer with typically fracture the rock into more manageable sizes. It really is not that big of a deal. I had to do this at least once a month. Also it would be good to know that I was driving on construction sites, not well used dirt roads. IE you are not as likely to get a rock in the tires if you just watch where you are going and avoid driving on rocks that will get stuck in there. (obviously some roads you can not miss them, but really, just drive smart and you should be alright.)

Another important consideration of the duals is a flat tire. I have seen guys more than a few times drive with three rear tires. For instance, my boss got a flat one day, he popped off the offending tire, and drove two hours to the nearest tire shop. You can't be doing that with super singles. You are just stuck there, with what ever help happens to pass you by, and is willing to take you two hours away to a new tire, and then willing and able to haul you and said tire back to your bus.

Change of use (to an RV) you should be required a few typical things... Permanently mounted Sink, Toilet, dinning space, bed, etc. Most states have four or five things that they require to be in there to be able to call it a motorhome. That should be easy enough to find.


Here it is...
www.dmv.ca.gov said:
A "house car" is a motor vehicle originally designed, or permanently altered, and equipped for human habitation, or to which a camper has been permanently attached. A motor vehicle to which a camper has been temporarily attached is not a house car except that, for the purposes of Division 11 (commencing with Section 21000) and Division 12 (commencing with Section 24000), a motor vehicle equipped with a camper having an axle that is designed to support a portion of the weight of the camper unit shall be considered a three-axle house car regardless of the method of attachment or manner of registration. A house car shall not be deemed to be a motortruck.

Here is the link to the page I found this on...
http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/vctop/d01/vc362.htm

This is all from California,

Texas has this to say.

Used trucks, truck-tractor and buses, which have been reconstructed or converted to contain living quarters, should title as Motor Homes and register with passenger plates. Owners should support the title application with a photograph of the interior and exterior, a weight certificate verifying the gross weight, and a Rebuilt Vehicle Statement, Form VTR-61 explaining the alteration. The make, year model, and vehicle identification number should be the same as that shown on the title covering the truck, truck-tractor or bus.
Note: When the certificate of title is issued for this type of vehicle, the notation “Reconstructed” appears.

www.jackdanmayer.com said:
- You need some pictures of the tractor. Front and side views, at a minimum. I went armed with all four sides, but they only used the front view. You cannot register without this.
- You also need pictures of the modifications you have made to the tractor to turn it into a motor home. I used pictures of the bed, the refrigerator, the microwave, and permanent shore power. Along with this you need a written statement of your modifications, and that they are permanent (I hand wrote it on the spot). There was no inspection of any of these items in my case, and I know of no one who has encountered inspections. It is the county tax people who issue the title and registration and they are mainly interested in your $, in my opinion.
Here is the link to that one
http://www.jackdanmayer.com/registration_and_legal_issues.htm

Just have a search around, and I am sure you can find what you need for your state.

I hope that helps.

Regards,
Brian
 

Lynn

Expedition Leader
Sorry I'm a little late to the part, but wrt your murphy bed idea, somewhere on this forum there are pictrues of a Unimog camper with a murphy bed that folds up over/behind a permanent rear dinette. Really cool.

I couldn't find it in a quick search, but have a link saved at home. I'll try to find it later if you are interested.

Edit: Found it. First pic shows bed stowed, and second pic shows it deployed.

Here's the link.

This may not fit with your plans, but I had to mention it since it's one of the coolest things I've ever seen...
 
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