My camper ideas, thoughts, and plans...

[Metcalf]

Thanks for the complement. I think the sunken bathroom idea make a lot of sense. There are some unicats that do the same things, so I can't be that far off. The only downside is that the shower can't really drain into a wastewater tank....you have to pump it into it, or go with just a simple bucket/hose system to let the water drain. The toilet is self contained and will not be an issue. The sinks gray water does flow into a tank ( not shown yet )

I like your raising bed idea. I am still trying to figure out how to make this happen easily, a full bed with sheets and blankets won't be light. Maybe I can have some kind of pulley system or gas strut to help lift it. Most of the storage under the bed is 'outside' gear storage. This includes things like folding chairs, gas cans, spare parts, and so on. This should keep the need to access these parts to a minimum. There will be a drawer system on the right of the refrigerator ( when facing it ) That will mainly function as storage for clothes. These will be very deep drawers. I hope I can design a seat back system that allows all this to be fairly hidden and seamless.

One of my main concerns is storage. I just don't think you can ever have enough! I am having to plan around a lot of different factors to make best use of all the space in the camper. I wish there was more space, but it just makes everything bigger and heavier to make the camper any larger. I would use the longer L37 unimog if I could locate one in the US but I am not holding my breath.

 

[Metcalf]

I wanted to show everyone what the my camper concept would look like on a unimog. This is pretty close to scale. I will have to get unimog blueprints or CAD files to get anything much better. Or heaven forbid...buy a unimog and build it!!

I think this shows the concept a little better than just a solid model picture. The main goal for me was to have a smaller, lighter camper for a unimog chassis. I want to be able to ship it in a container without a lot of fuss. I think the triangle pop up system allows the roof line to be VERY low overall while keeping a lot of the other features I wanted intact like a hard pop up, pass through to cab, etc.

Thoughts and comments?

 

[CornDog]

This is more a measurement question than anything else, but...
When you pull the toilet out in the depressed area, how much room is there around it? Basicly, when using it, is there enough room around it to sit/stand?

 

[Metcalf]

I think so. I'm a pretty average sized guy (5'11", 180lbs). I did a mock up of the space provided. Will it be super comfortable...not really. It is an inside, out of the weather, private toilet however. The thetford toilet doesn't have to slide out all the way either, just enough to get the lid up.

I have a few tricks up my sleeve. I could taper the cabinet above the toilet a little bit to provide some more room if needed, but this cabinet area is used for plumbing/hot water. I could also have the lid removable on the toilet so you wouldn't have to pull it out as far.

I think the turtle expedition has the same basic system in there turtle V. I think they sit with there feet to the inside/center of the camper however??

 

[Blair G]

I wanted to show everyone what the my camper concept would look like on a unimog. This is pretty close to scale. I will have to get unimog blueprints or CAD files to get anything much better. Or heaven forbid...buy a unimog and build it!!

I think this shows the concept a little better than just a solid model picture. The main goal for me was to have a smaller, lighter camper for a unimog chassis. I want to be able to ship it in a container without a lot of fuss. I think the triangle pop up system allows the roof line to be VERY low overall while keeping a lot of the other features I wanted intact like a hard pop up, pass through to cab, etc.

Thoughts and comments?

Hi,
I have been following this thread since building a camper is something I wanted to do.Now that my family has increased (X2) the the 1300 is to small and needs to be sold. The other option is to extend the cab or build a box that accommodates seating for people on a permanent basis. Having these options I have decided to sell the truck and get something else.
Some of the things that I have figured out by experience or conversations with people who have done it.
-Unimog cabs are fairly small for tall people. While they are far suppior to the round cabs in terms of comfort, they lack any real storage or mounting points for electronics. The control linkage in the middle of the cab and the fact the cab tilts forces you to design to accommodate this. Overhead consoles seem to be great solution but can be a pain in the ass when it comes to running wires. You will not have much adjustment in reclining the seats. My wife had hard times trying to take a nap while driving. Sounds stupid but it is a comfort thing. This leads to a pass through. Do it or don't do it? I am a fan of the passthrough of some sort. ideally it would something you could access while moving but the large opening of an Ag cab window would suffice. Beiing able to get to the cab from the back has been possibly a life saving addition. Sealing the passthrough is a pain in the ass due to the articulation of the chassis and cab.
Unimog cabs are loud and hot. You will have to make allowances for both.
-Coordinations of electrons. Most 1300's are 24v. Of course with Unimogs ther are always exceptions. In my opinion staying with 24v is the smart way to go. Converters are available to convert anything that is needed to be converted. Lights,pumps, and everything for a camper comes in 24v so it really is no big deal. Most people have gone to solar for recharging and aay from batteries. I still think a small honda genset would be a great backup if you are in the middle of now where and need to charge our power something. Batteries are bulky and heavy and need to have decent access. Figure out what your requirements are and then figure your system out. Use LED's and florls when you can.
- Unimog things are really heavy. Tires are real heavy. Having had to change Unimog tires you realize how heavy they are. Changing tires off road and in the dirt adds a whole other challange and about 150lbs to the process. Location and access to spares should be as easy and stupid proff as possible.
- Diesel stoves are made for boats at sea level. They work poorly on things at altitude unless they are calibrated. Diesel heaters are awesome and a great addition to the chassis as well as the living box.
- Never install things in the living box that you can't remove from the front door.
- You will rarely crap or shower in your designed bathroom. Provide an outside shower area.
-The hydraulics in my Alaskan are nearly 30 years old and work perfect. I am a big fan of raising roofs on campers. The 2 issues are the raising system and the sealing system. Simple, simple and simple is the key. Probably avoid the desire to hide this system as maintance will be necessary.Alaskans are made of beautiful brass that can be polished and shown off.
- Have access to the roof for storage and maintenance.
- Be able to isolate systems in case of damage or problems. 2 fuel tanks, Cole hearcy (sp) to either combine or shut off batteries depending on whats going on
- Go buy Campervans and Tom Shepards (who drives a G-wagon)Overland Bible.
- The 1300 's air system is a work of art.

I am sure there is more but I am tired of typing. :smiley_drive:

Blair

 

[Metcalf]

Blair,

Please rest up and write some more!

I am going to have a pass through for sure. I like the idea of being able to get to the front and back quickly without having to go outside. My compainion insists on having room to take her nap! I think being able to lay on the rear floor rigth behind the cab will be nice for the days your not feeling too hot and having a bathroom nearby will be another bonus.

I have been looking into soundproofing the unimog cab. I know they have a reputation as being loud and hot.

I am definatly going to make everything I can 24V. I found a lot of places in europe that sell 24V stuff so its not too big a deal. I don't anything that has to run off an inverter all the time. I will install a small one just to have some flexability. I am more worried about being able to plug in to different sources of power around the globe. I know most areas don't have any hook ups, but having the ability would be nice. We are most likely going to have some extended stays in some areas for some volunteer work. I am going to have most of the roof covered in solar panels. With the pop up and the nose pointed south I should have some decent output. I am going to try and keep the batteries to a minimum. The only big load in the camper should be the fridge. I hope that I can come up with a good unit that doesn't use much power. I have my eye on some of the Norcold units. Does anyone know of any other good options?

In another life I was an engine captain of a type 4 fire engine for the BLM. These are about unimog sized. I know all about everything being heavy. I also changed comercial sized tires on trucks, skidders, and tractors way back when. I am kinda torn on what tires to run on the unimog, I have no idea what the most common sizes are going to be all over the world. The spare tire will be on the back of the camper on the popup, it will have a small hand winch ( or electric winch ) to lower it to the ground.

I have heard about the diesel stoves from other people too. Does anyone know what modifications are made to make them work well at higher elevations?

I definatly plan on having a small diesel fired coolant heater on the truck. I hope to integrate it to provide hot water, space heating, and engine pre-warming when needed. I plan on spending some time in the cold.


Never install things in the living box that you can't remove from the front door

I might have a few things like the fridge and bed that are not going to fit out the front door too easy. If all else fails I could always disconnect the top struts and lift the top manually over the edge to get at everything inside. Everything else should be ok. I think its going to be nice to build the camper without the top on....much more room to get inside and work.

The inside toilet and shower will get used in the colder more deserted areas. I hope that I won't have to use them all the time! They may be there, but they are not full size for sure! I would like to do something for an outside shower. Where would be the best area to have it...next to the door?out back?

I am still trying to decide what to do about the top raising system. I don't want it to be really hidden, but I don't want it to be out where everything like sheets, fiingers, and toes can get caught in it. Do you have any pictures of your alaskan top system?

I plan on having a small roof rack on the top of the unimog cab. It will be something very low profile and simple.....NOT a huge expedition rack. I am planning on having a roof hatch from the camper to the top and maybe a folding step system on the front edge of the camper shell.

- Be able to isolate systems in case of damage or problems. 2 fuel tanks, Cole hearcy (sp) to either combine or shut off batteries depending on whats going on

I am trying to build in some redundancy without adding a ton of weight. Its too easy to just keep adding and adding and adding....


- Go buy Campervans and Tom Shepards (who drives a G-wagon)Overland Bible.

Both are on my list.....'Vehicle dependent expedition guide' by shepard is hard to find!

Thanks for the feedback....

 

[FusoFG]

I have my eye on some of the Norcold units. Does anyone know of any other good options?

I have an Indel marine top loader. Front Loader spills all the cold air when the door is opened. Top loader is easier on batteries. Indel avail in US but made in Europe so might have good service abroad.

I have heard about the diesel stoves from other people too. Does anyone know what modifications are made to make them work well at higher elevations?

I definatly plan on having a small diesel fired coolant heater on the truck. I hope to integrate it to provide hot water, space heating, and engine pre-warming when needed. I plan on spending some time in the cold.

I have a Wallas diesel stove and it has worked well up 12,000 ft so far even though they claim sea level.

Just start it on low instead of high as the manual says - high is too rich for starting in thin air. There is adjustment for fuel metering but I haven't found any instructions. Trial and error with an infrared thermometer might help.

There is a stove cover available that provides a forced air heat that might be an alternative to the hydronic heat.

Espar claims the diesel coolant heater has an altitude limitation but mine has worked well to 12,000 ft. There was a rumor that they used to provide instructions to adjust the fuel delivery but I haven't found any.

Mine is hooked up to the engine, 2 heater matrixes in the camper and the heat exchanger in the Indel marine hot water heater. That way either the engine or the espar can heat the camper, hot water or engine block.

I would like to do something for an outside shower. Where would be the best area to have it...next to the door?out back?

Near the same location as the interior shower to simplify plumbing

I am trying to build in some redundancy without adding a ton of weight. Its too easy to just keep adding and adding and adding....

Redundancy shouldn't add weight. What ever capacity battery, fuel, etc that you end up with just achieve it with 2 smaller units that add up to your desired capacity. If you need 200 amp hrs of battery - get 2 100 amp hr batteries, etc. Want 60 gals of diesel - get 2 30 gal tanks and keep the plumbing separate

 

[Metcalf]

FusoFG,

Thanks or the input, I really apprieciate all the help and suggestions everyone is taking the time to write....

I have an Indel marine top loader. Front Loader spills all the cold air when the door is opened. Top loader is easier on batteries. Indel avail in USbut made in Europe so might have good service abroad.

That is a good idea. I looked at the Indel products website. They are very nice. I don't know where I would install a top loading fridge? I could have one in one of the seat/benches that forms the dining area. The real problem with the top loader is functional space. Do you have any pics of your install Fuso?


There is a stove cover available that provides a forced air heat that might be an alternative to the hydronic heat.

I saw that. The only thing I don't like about it is that the lid temps might be a little high. I would be worried about bumping into it and people burning themselves. Its is an option however....


Mine is hooked up to the engine, 2 heater matrixes in the camper and the heat exchanger in the Indel marine hot water heater. That way either the engine or the espar can heat the camper, hot water or engine block.

This is what I want mine to do. I think I am going to use a heated floor and/or towel rack to heat the inside of the camper. The less moving parts the better. I think with one pump and a thermostat valve I could create a heating system in the floor. I don't know for sure though. I am quickly running out of space in the camper. Things get tight really fast!

Near the same location as the interior shower to simplify plumbing

What about just having an extra long hose on the inside shower that would reach outside the main door?

 

[Metcalf]

Just a quick update. After working through the design for a little while I decided to start on an alternate version. It uses a different layout, but the same triangle pop up. It is going to be designed to fit on a L37 unimog with the longer 3700mm wheelbase. This one is going to be a bit different with a loft style bed, rear seating, and much more interior storage. I should have a concept rendering in a few days. Its basically turning into a transformer kind of thing. I am trying to use most all of the space inside the collapsed camper while having the most open area when the top is up. It should be different...

 

[Blair G]

Just a quick update. After working through the design for a little while I decided to start on an alternate version. It uses a different layout, but the same triangle pop up. It is going to be designed to fit on a L37 unimog with the longer 3700mm wheelbase. This one is going to be a bit different with a loft style bed, rear seating, and much more interior storage. I should have a concept rendering in a few days. Its basically turning into a transformer kind of thing. I am trying to use most all of the space inside the collapsed camper while having the most open area when the top is up. It should be different...

I wouldn't get to excited until you actually get a Unimog. The L37 is an uncommon version of the 1300 and are rare. The longer wheelbase are also found in other model ranges as well.
Blair

 

[Metcalf]

I am most likely going to have one custom re-built in Europe and imported ( I hope! ). I know the l37s are rare....hell...it seems like the regular 1300s are rare enough in the states!

If you had a 1300 I have to wonder how hard it would be to modify the frame or buy a new one, then swap everything over. I don't think the difference more than the frame, torque tube, and rear driveshaft.

 

[Blair G]

I am most likely going to have one custom re-built in Europe and imported ( I hope! ). I know the l37s are rare....hell...it seems like the regular 1300s are rare enough in the states!

If you had a 1300 I have to wonder how hard it would be to modify the frame or buy a new one, then swap everything over. I don't think the difference more than the frame, torque tube, and rear driveshaft.

If you are truely interested in a long wheel base I would buy a 1700 ir a 1550 l38 and be done with it. Anything else is a waste of time and money. I would never think about doing it to mine but i believe Unimog offered a factory approved kit to do it.

Blair

 

[Metcalf]

I don't need that much mog.

I do want some other hard to find options so I don't think it will be that much difference. You never know what is going to come along. I am keeping an eye on ebay germany as much as I can. I think the 3850mm wheelbase is a little long, the 3250mm is a little short. The 3700mm seems to work out about perfect when trying to fit everything thing in. I would also like this camper to fit in a standard 20ft container too. The bigger mogs make this even more challenging. I think with a set of container wheels (and maybe an air suspension ) I could fit an l37 or regular 1300 in a standard height container. For me this is a big bonus. I am going to be shipping over the ocean at least 3 major times.

They offered a kit to do what? Long wheelbase?

 

[Blair G]

I don't need that much mog.

I do want some other hard to find options so I don't think it will be that much difference. You never know what is going to come along. I am keeping an eye on ebay germany as much as I can. I think the 3850mm wheelbase is a little long, the 3250mm is a little short. The 3700mm seems to work out about perfect when trying to fit everything thing in. I would also like this camper to fit in a standard 20ft container too. The bigger mogs make this even more challenging. I think with a set of container wheels (and maybe an air suspension ) I could fit an l37 or regular 1300 in a standard height container. For me this is a big bonus. I am going to be shipping over the ocean at least 3 major times.

They offered a kit to do what? Long wheelbase?

They offered a factory mod of some sort. Personaly I would extend the bed a few feet and give the box a decent angle of departure. Unimogs are tall enough that it won't make any difference.

Blair

 

[Metcalf]

I'm not the biggest fan of rear overhang. I would rather keep it short. Keeping the weight in between the wheels has worked best over the years for me. This seems to add up to a lot less 'active' chassis off-road. Keeping the weight centralized as much as possible and keeping the center of mass rather compact is only going to help things. In my newer designs I am going to try and move all the large weights ( spare tire, water and fuel tanks, batteries ) forward in the chassis as much as possible.

I don't know how much difference all this is really going to make. I am going from a background extreme trail type 4wheeling to an expedition setting. I have quite a bit of heavy vehicle off-road driving experience from a past life. Now I am a student of engineering and design.

I'm not saying that what is being done now doesn't work in the expedition community, but I think there is room for improvement.