I couldnt pass up the swap. I got the tranny, pedals all the hardware and linkages and that tail gate for $450
My CUCV M1009 To be named later build
- Thread starter jackel44
- Start date
I couldnt pass up the swap. I got the tranny, pedals all the hardware and linkages and that tail gate for $450
These rigs in the summer are so fun with the top off. That pick up tailgate is surely lighter than what I've got. Great deal on all those parts too. I swapped out bumpers to allow a step in the back and winch in the front. Bet you could pick one up at a junk yard for the rear end cheap. Sounds like you work some dirty deals on the parts! Looking good.
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I wish I could find a cheep winch bumper for front and a sturdy one for the back.
Well my priorities have changed. I have convinced my father and a few others to take a 10 day or so trip to Southern Utah. We have not yet started to plan the trip, but we want about 4 or so days on the trail with a few day hikes.
I wanted to get a snorkel and turbo set-up first, but now I think I’m going to change it.
Things to accomplish not in any order
1. Roof rack. I haven’t decided if I want to run with my fiberglass shell or use my canvas one and make some removable sides.
2. Front bumper with winch
3. Rear bumper for spare and fuel holder
4. Larger stock fuel tank.
5. Manual transmission swap
6. ¾ ton axles mainly due to gear ratio.
7. Costom awning for the rack while it is parked at camp.
8. Upgraded lighting.
9. While tranny is out to pull the motor and check mainbearing tolarances.
10. Change oil pump
11. New engine cross over bracket (more stronger, lighter, better hidden)
12. Disk brakes for rear
13. New 4 wheel disk master cylinder
14. Steering strengthening mod
Please let me know if there is anything I’m forgetting or if I am doing something I don’t need.
I wanted to get a snorkel and turbo set-up first, but now I think I’m going to change it.
Things to accomplish not in any order
1. Roof rack. I haven’t decided if I want to run with my fiberglass shell or use my canvas one and make some removable sides.
2. Front bumper with winch
3. Rear bumper for spare and fuel holder
4. Larger stock fuel tank.
5. Manual transmission swap
6. ¾ ton axles mainly due to gear ratio.
7. Costom awning for the rack while it is parked at camp.
8. Upgraded lighting.
9. While tranny is out to pull the motor and check mainbearing tolarances.
10. Change oil pump
11. New engine cross over bracket (more stronger, lighter, better hidden)
12. Disk brakes for rear
13. New 4 wheel disk master cylinder
14. Steering strengthening mod
Please let me know if there is anything I’m forgetting or if I am doing something I don’t need.
underdrive
jackwagon
Prioritize on the steering box area reinforcement, and the bigger axles. Transmission swap at the same time or shortly thereafter. These are the things that can leave you stranded hardcore in the middle of nowhere, so fix them before they have the chance to pull a fast one on you.
Do upgraded lighting, gotta be able to see where you're going. If headlights don't already run off relays, make it happen.
That truck is hydroboosted from the factory, right? Then it should already have pretty decent brakes, even better with axle swap cause of new larger brakes. So skip the rear discs unless they are of the type that uses 3/4-ton front calipers, the Eldo calipers are horrible. Problem is with the 3/4-ton calipers you lose your parking brake, kinda important with a handshaker trans. Look into a driveline e-brake setup to remedy that situation. But really, if you're running low on time, skip brakes upgrades for now.
Skip pulling the engine out too, if she has good oil pressure run her. Loose bearings will show as low oil pressure. Changing the oil pump for the sake of changing it seems a waste of time and efforts.
Get the front bumper first, winch is more important than fuel holder and spare carrier. Do rear if you have time before the trip, but don't delay trip if you don't have a fancy rear bumper, just toss the stuff inside and head out.
Do roof rack if time allows it. Don't waste time on an awning if trip is coming up soon, umbrellas for deck table sets will work nearly as good and are already available on short notice.
Consider replacing the engine fan clutch with something heavy-duty, especially if venturing out in deserts and such. Or add electric pusher fan to help what you have now if need arises.
Do upgraded lighting, gotta be able to see where you're going. If headlights don't already run off relays, make it happen.
That truck is hydroboosted from the factory, right? Then it should already have pretty decent brakes, even better with axle swap cause of new larger brakes. So skip the rear discs unless they are of the type that uses 3/4-ton front calipers, the Eldo calipers are horrible. Problem is with the 3/4-ton calipers you lose your parking brake, kinda important with a handshaker trans. Look into a driveline e-brake setup to remedy that situation. But really, if you're running low on time, skip brakes upgrades for now.
Skip pulling the engine out too, if she has good oil pressure run her. Loose bearings will show as low oil pressure. Changing the oil pump for the sake of changing it seems a waste of time and efforts.
Get the front bumper first, winch is more important than fuel holder and spare carrier. Do rear if you have time before the trip, but don't delay trip if you don't have a fancy rear bumper, just toss the stuff inside and head out.
Do roof rack if time allows it. Don't waste time on an awning if trip is coming up soon, umbrellas for deck table sets will work nearly as good and are already available on short notice.
Consider replacing the engine fan clutch with something heavy-duty, especially if venturing out in deserts and such. Or add electric pusher fan to help what you have now if need arises.
On the topper choice, I'd be hard pressed to get rid of my fiberglass for canvas. That's just seems like a step backwards. More noise, less secure, less insulation, less weather proof, etc. The one upgrade to the fiberglass that does make sense to me is civilian side Windows. That way you can open them by sliding if your I the heat a lot.
hidesertwheelin
Explorer
FYI, the rear disc swap is the same weather you are running 3/4 ton calipers or Caddy calipers. The calipers are the same size and interchangeable. That said, I would skip on the disk brake swap. I have them on my suburban, and am really leaning towards going back to drums.
hidesertwheelin
Explorer
The brakes seem "soft" to me. I'm gonna install hydroboost and see if that helps. If not, i'll go back to 13" drums.
superbuickguy
Explorer
I have disk brakes on the back of my 83, they lock up every bit as easy as the drum brakes... though I'm hydroboost because of the diesel... with that said, I have disk brakes on a lot of cars, and I would never swap back to drums unless I was drag racing.
I'll say it (but suspect) you did make sure your proportioning valve was working correctly? Also, a good way to balance the brakes on a full-size disk swap is to use more aggressive pads on the front and harder pads on the rear...
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