My CUCV M1009 To be named later build

[jackel44]

Let me start by saying I have always wanted a diesel k5. For those of you who don't know the truck starting and glow plug system is 24 volt and the rest is the stock 12 volt system utalizing 2 100 amp Delco 27si isolated ground alternators.

My goal is to have a reliable good fuel vehicle that is strong enough to accomplish the things that I want to do. No laughing. I want to be able to take it on local trails and next year go to Utah with a friend who takes his Jeep.

Some of the modifications I have planed on:

3/4 ton axles
Manual tranny (I like them better)
Turbo
Roof rack
Upgraded suspension
Roll cage
Replace gauge cluster
Snorkel
Replace the tailgate with a truck one

Modifications I have done:
Up graded the relay for the 12v ignition to 24v for better starting
New gear reduction starter
Rebuilt one starter
Put a canvas top on it
I put an electric fuel pump and spin-on filter

 

[jackel44]

I am using a turbo off of a late 90's 6.5. I have everything to bolt it together except the air filter which I'm looking for a snorkel and a custom exhaust which I am waiting for the drivetrain upgrades.

The drive train can get bolted up once I finish rebuilding the gears. To finish the gears, I want to do the rear disk brake conversion and I have to finish cleaning up the front end.

 

[406expo]

These trucks are a lot of fun. We've had a couple and currently still running an m1009. Regarding the axle swap you mentioned switching to a 3/4 axle. I believe your talking about swapping the Corp ten bolts out for Dana 44's?

If so I don't think your going to gain to much strength. The 14 bolt (stock in the rear end of m1008/m1028) is a full free float 1.25 ton axle and I believe the equivalent to a dana 70. The 12 bolt Corp axle is the equivalent to the Dana 60. That said the 10 bolt is on par with the Dana 44 and I would imagine why jeepers often are seen putting them into there rigs to replace less capable or robust axles. Only real difference is Dana 44's are 30 spline and your cucv has 28 I'm pretty sure. In 88 or 89 the 10 bolts also had 30 spline. The 10 bolt also has a bigger ring gear and pinion shaft. The Dana 44 also has a flat topped passenger knuckle which is easier for cross over steering, but the same part can be swapped right into the 10 bolt. I think most other parts are interchangeable on these two with a couple exceptions.

If want significantly more strength and plan to run more than a 33" tire consider a dana 60 up front and a free float 14 bolt in the back. If you can pull them out of a 3/4 ton truck it will bolt right in. If it's out of a one ton the perches need to be moved.

I picked up a 14 bolt ff from a 3/4 ton chevy to swap under my rig and let me tell you it's a beast of an axle. It's got to be close to 600 lbs. I'm still shopping for my bargain Dana 60. I'm also re gearing from 308's to 410's in the mean time. If you can score axles out of a 1008 or 1028 they will be geared in 456. Also many have Detroit lockers. I figure I'm going to throw air lockers in the rear soon on mine.

Great score on the turbo! I wouldn't mind having a turbo on mine but am happy with it currently. A snorkel is on my list of upgrades also, just haven't gotten to it yet.

 

[superbuickguy]

You have choices with your front axle, the 3/4 ton axles are, by and large, Dana 44s - which are, with a truss, more than adequate for most applications; the rear, you have choices too, you can run either a dana 60 or a 14 bolt. The 14 bolt is the toughest axle you can buy, stock, but it's nearly 700 lbs, and it kills ground clearance. Unless your tire size is larger than 37s (with a light foot), or 35s (with a heavy one) - the dana 60 would probably be the best bet. If you get the '60 out of a chevy truck, it will bolt in with only a conversion U-joint, and larger u-bolts.

10 bolts aren't really on par with a 44... they are lighter.... with that said, the biggest failure on those front ends is breaking the long-side axle tube. Other issues include pinion movement - where you jam a wheel in a rock and the pinion literally climbs up the ring gear - in order for it to climb, the cast-iron housing must first break.... many shiny, internal bits and oil will come out when that happens (care to ask how I know this? )

A dana 44 is more than adequate for what you're doing, and a 60 rear would be a nice upgrade (full floater, of course, as they came in non-float as well)

For your motor, all you need is the passenger side exhaust manifold from a gale banks conversion. The gm manifold does not lend itself easily to upgrading turbos - whereas the gale banks one does. The driver's side stays the same on both applications - it just has a cross over to the passenger side. If you need pictures, search for "rescue rig" on bangshift.com - I blogged putting a turbo and rebuilt that turbo on that site. I also did the axle swap from 1/2 to 3/4 ton, but used a 14 bolt. I'm doing a dana 60 now in a FJ40, so you're welcome to watch that as well (fj4overland)...

As for a manual transmission, if you want bulletproof, search craigslist for a np435/np205 set up... they're generally pretty cheap (less than $500 for a good condition). Also get the rear driveshaft since most np205s are not a slip yoke set up like the np208 that's in your rig now.
good luck with your build, be sure to make the system 12 volt for the glow plugs.

 

[406expo]

If you were to opt for the 14 bolt and didn't want to loose clearance as the previous poster, you can always shave it. If you Google 14 bolt shave it comes up from just about every forum. It will give you back that clearance.

 

[jackel44]

I already have A Dana 44 for the front and a 14 bolt ff for the rear in 410. I was looking at shaving it, but I dont know how well it would do to not leak. I just dont like the fact their is no bolt holding the bottom half on. I dont plan on lifting it much if any thing. I understand the new axles will give it about a 1.5 lift. As far as the turbo I have everything except the intake and snorkel. I spent a few hours this morning getting the 465 and 205 stripped for paint.

 

[406expo]

Very cool man, keep us updated on the photos and I'm watching for your snorkel

 

[jackel44]

Very cool man, keep us updated on the photos and I'm watching for your snorkel

Me too I haven't decided how I'm going to that one. I thought of having a piece of pvc pipe like the Humvee or run one the side like a safari. I a can argue either way.

 

[superbuickguy]

nice... intake is pretty easy - most I've seen are basically a coffee can with a 3" tube welded in at 90* in fact, the early gale banks intake look exactly like that.
are you going to run an intercooler?

 

[jackel44]

nice... intake is pretty easy - most I've seen are basically a coffee can with a 3" tube welded in at 90* in fact, the early gale banks intake look exactly like that.
are you going to run an intercooler?

No,I wasn't going to run an intercooler, however I was thinking on running a separate oil pick-up filter and pump. I would run it on a temperature switch. I got the idea from a oil schematic from an old locomotive.

 

[superbuickguy]

between the 2 turbos I've had on mine - the first had a lot of miles on it (no idea, but more than 100k was all the seller said) and 5k on the new one - the only issue was the bearing wore and you got that great sound of impeller hitting the case - but honestly, 100k miles per turbo, turbos cost $400 to rebuild, I'm not certain I think the dollars spent for a oil pump would be worth it - especially since electric oil pumps are not terribly reliable. Run an exhaust temp gauge, and either make sure you don't shut it down with the temps are more than 400 degrees or put a turbo timer on it that won't let it shut down until the exhaust has cooled enough...
with that said, don't even think about running a turbo 6.2 without a good water temp gauge, a good exhaust temp gauge, and a good boost gauge. Exhaust temp gets hot first (900 degrees), Water next (210 degrees is hot), - the way you cool both down is back out of the throttle to less than 1 psi boost. 7 psi (system max) will get you hot pretty quickly, but lightening on the throttle will get you back to good temps. Keep this in mind, 6.2 diesels will crack heads when they get hot. 6.2s will crack heads even if they don't (when you rebuild, it's cheaper to simply buy new heads)... but if you crack the heads by overheating, generally the next sound you hear is no sound at all because it will hydro-lock.

 

[jackel44]

Thanks for your input. I already have a good temperature gauge, and I have plans on getting a pyro gauge. You are right spending 300 plus on a electric pump doesnt warrant spending it on extending a turbos life.

 

[jackel44]

5 carwash tokens and 3 bottles of brake clean later, I finnaly got it all cleaned up and painted.

 

[jackel44]

I also changed my tailgate with a pick-up tail gate.

The good:
Truck is lighter and I dont use the window in the summer.
The handle is on the outside. no more crawling through the blazer to open the door.
The gate is removable and make the bed more like a truck.

The bad:
I can no longer lock the gate with-out a paddle lock of some sort.
I have to use a removable plexiglass window. (I broke my glass one anyway)

The steps it took:
1. Remove old tailgate
2. Remove all hardware
3. Chase the unused holes. I have tap the bottom hinged hole. The bolts I removed from the truck were metric and the holes were standard.
4. Put the truck hardware in its place.

 

[406expo]

I gave the truck tailgate some very serious thought as well. Looks good, I ended up rebuilding my tailgate after trying to install a piece of junk replacement from summit.