hidesertwheelin
Explorer
Do what just drop in? The disk brake brackets? You have to pull the axle shafts and entire drum assembly's off, and bolt the brackets, and disks on.
My CUCV M1009 To be named later build
- Thread starter jackel44
- Start date
Do what just drop in? The disk brake brackets? You have to pull the axle shafts and entire drum assembly's off, and bolt the brackets, and disks on.
Sorry, The whole axle just drop in like the 3/4 ton does.
My progress for this week. My injector testester came in and I will post some pics when I get home. I ordered 8 new injector tips including the sealing washer and gasket from e-bay for $66.00. I also was in luck ORD has their Steering braces on sale for $110 reg $130, I have one coming also.
olly hondro
mad scientist
If you can't fit everything inside then you need a bigger truck. Not my saying, got it from an article on this site, but I agree with it. What would be really cool for your application would be to find a squarebody diesel Suburban (already has 3/4 ton axles) then transfer the CUCV goodies over to it. Paint it woodland camo = good to go, a clone of sorts. Use the popular search engine "CUCV suburban clone" to get ideas. Heck, I might even do that myself 
I was waiting for you to bring that quote up. I was reading that today btw nice m1009. Truth be known i have a suburban that is a 6.2 and the motor is blown with a bad oil preasure from a cam shelling. I have a replacement motor that i stripped off all the extras and put a j code intake on it. The problem i have is the body and frame is loaded with rust.If you can't fit everything inside then you need a bigger truck. Not my saying, got it from an article on this site, but I agree with it. What would be really cool for your application would be to find a squarebody diesel Suburban (already has 3/4 ton axles) then transfer the CUCV goodies over to it. Paint it woodland camo = good to go, a clone of sorts. Use the popular search engine "CUCV suburban clone" to get ideas. Heck, I might even do that myself
hidesertwheelin
Explorer
I'm sure the axle would bolt up easy enough, I'd guess you'd have to relocate the spring pads. I have no idea about any electronic do-hickeys that are on those axles. If I remember correctly, the problems with those axles was availability of lower axle gearing, but if you are going to run 4:11's. you should be fine.
Larry
Bigassgas Explorer
What's the big priority to swap on rear DISK brakes anyway?
Unlike most other other sheeople, it is very unlikely you will ever see me ditch the rear drums on either of my old rigs and move to rear disks. I could think if a thousand other things I could and would spend that budget money on over and above a rear disk brake swap. Totally unnecessary swap for 90% of us IMHO.
BTW, cool CUCV! I would love to have a K5 CUCV one day. One of my bucket list vehicles for sure!
Unlike most other other sheeople, it is very unlikely you will ever see me ditch the rear drums on either of my old rigs and move to rear disks. I could think if a thousand other things I could and would spend that budget money on over and above a rear disk brake swap. Totally unnecessary swap for 90% of us IMHO.
BTW, cool CUCV! I would love to have a K5 CUCV one day. One of my bucket list vehicles for sure!
underdrive
jackwagon
In one of the posts on page #6 the OP said the drums he currently has (I can only assume those on the 14-bolt) are "a rotten mess" so to bring them back to a reasonable state of reliability (which to me would be like brand new) he'll be spending some money, at which point he may as well spend said money on the disc swap. Which makes sense to me, to a point. See, I tend to agree with you that rear discs are usually more of a "want" rather than "need" upgrade, if it's even an upgrade to begin with - honestly when I see 3/8"-thick brackets with no additional bracing I feel quite uneasy running them. Why, well cause we're at almost 7k on the rear axle, with a maxed-out Saginaw pump and hydroboost during a panic stop those calipers will clamp on the rotors so hard that the caliper bracket is gonna scream for mercy. Maybe it will survive the ordeal, maybe it will take some damage, I don't know and don't particularly care to find out. And maybe in a light vehicle like a Blazer (or a Bronco, cause similar setup is available for Ford trucks as well) it won't see such loads and maybe it is perfectly safe to use - again, I don't care to find out the hard way. I'm aware that there are many people out there who run these things day in and day out no problem, but if SHTF for us none of them would be paying for damages caused by our truck, we will be.What’s the big priority to swap on rear DISK brakes anyway?
Unlike most other other sheeople, it is very unlikely you will ever see me ditch the rear drums on either of my old rigs and move to rear disks. I could think if a thousand other things I could and would spend that budget money on over and above a rear disk brake swap. Totally unnecessary swap for 90% of us IMHO.
Mind you, I actually strongly dislike drums of any kind and size. But I've also been spoiled rotten by air discs, to the point that for every vehicle I get my hands on I eventually start looking for a way to run as many discs as possible. But I don't rush or rig it - our MDT recently got an OEM-disc rear axle of higher GAWR than what the factory gave it at the assembly line, at the same time our 1-ton is still drum-braked due to lack of suitable donor vehicle in existence and will likely stay that way for the rest of its life.
So in the spirit of overkill I'd like to see the OP swap in an entire factory-disc rear axle, that will have everything properly engineered and tested under ridiculous conditions and I personally would feel safe putting my family in such a truck. But if it comes to spending money on drums or so-so discs, it's a judgement call, personally I'll probably choose the drums.
underdrive
jackwagon
I bet it does, especially with a broken engine
Jokes aside, nice score on the ORD stuff. I take it as you only bought the bolt-on brace, instead of both that one and the weld-on? I'd do both, especially considering you'll be running somewhat larger tires - overkill probably, but you're done with the problem once and for all.
Sorry for chopping up your quote. I have read lots of stories of brackets bending and that scares the piss out of me. With that said i am also one who likes to over think, over plan, over do, and over spend if you cant tell. I have found the bracket i am going to buy and try.
Its almost twice as much but i think its the strongest around.
I bet it does, especially with a broken engine
Jokes aside, nice score on the ORD stuff. I take it as you only bought the bolt-on brace, instead of both that one and the weld-on? I'd do both, especially considering you'll be running somewhat larger tires - overkill probably, but you're done with the problem once and for all.
i would have if i knew the welded one was for the other side. As far as running, my suburban ran great at the place i bought it from, i parked it to fix some tail light issues and started it up and the pressure was good. By the second or third starting i lost my oil pressure. i havent tore engine down but i found spun mains with needle bearings sucked up in the oil pump. That is my sad suburban story, but i'm working on my Blazer. I just wanted to express my paranoia for shelling out motors.
underdrive
jackwagon
Chop the quotes all you like, I do it all the time, no point in quoting the whole thing if you're only actually replying to part of it. Another thing that bugs me is when people quote entire posts full for pictures (notice how I didn't include your picture), even more so if all they have to say in the end is just a one-liner.
Back on topic, so the brackets bending is a real-world problem, not just something I conjured in my head? Well, then I'm glad you're doing your homework and looking around for better solutions. That expensive one certainly looks much better "triangulated"
088: Arrr!) than the cheaper ones, it's probably made of thicker steel too, like 1/2" instead of 3/8"? Mind you, what you've seen so far are probably not the worst offenders, there is one offering that instead of round holes for the bolts attaching it to the axle housing actually has slots - that's right, they cut the little bridges between the round bolt holes and the axle tube opening to form slots - well how the heck is a bolt to achieve uniform tension if 1/4 of its head surface is not supported by anything and just hangs out there? Another one has the proper round holes but there are only three of them... Again, stuff like that may work fine in the woods or the local mud hole, but I certainly wouldn't wanna test its strength in a fully loaded 1-ton truck panic-braking on the interstate :Wow1: Out of curiosity, what's the total cost you're looking at for these stronger brackets and the non-Eldo calipers and rotors and pads, and how does that compare to everything you need to rebuild your 3/4-ton drums?hidesertwheelin
Explorer
I have found the bracket i am going to buy and try.
Its almost twice as much but i think its the strongest around.
I just looked at ordering those exact brackets, but shipping was just shy of $50.:Wow1: Another reason for me to bolt some drums back on the Suburban.