My extremely slow 2001 Tundra build thread
- Thread starter BrianTN
- Start date
I used Sunbrella Marine fabric, believe the color was Charcoal Gray. I grabbed some 92 weight poly Sunguard thread in the same color and it's a perfect match. I've since added some tinted vinyl windows in the front and rear sections. My Singer 15-91 handled it like a champ and I rarely had to help out with the wheel.
So far I love it, it is unnoticeable on the highway, there is no flapping noise whatsoever. It also seems to help prevent the cab from getting as hot as it would prior by blocking sun from hitting the rear window. There are a few areas I would do differently though. I couldn't get it quite as taught as I would of liked. Funny thing is I was initially worried I cut the fabric for the sides too small. I'm not entirely sure how I could of made it better though. I had someone help me stretch it while I placed the snaps along the bedside. I would of also added a 3rd tie up for the side flaps as it will sag in the middle after a while. Looking back it was worth it to me, but now Allpro makes a bed rack for the first gen Tundras so that may be an easier way to do this. I haven't looked into how to add a canvas top though.
Here you can see the rear window and the snaps along the fabric:
So far I love it, it is unnoticeable on the highway, there is no flapping noise whatsoever. It also seems to help prevent the cab from getting as hot as it would prior by blocking sun from hitting the rear window. There are a few areas I would do differently though. I couldn't get it quite as taught as I would of liked. Funny thing is I was initially worried I cut the fabric for the sides too small. I'm not entirely sure how I could of made it better though. I had someone help me stretch it while I placed the snaps along the bedside. I would of also added a 3rd tie up for the side flaps as it will sag in the middle after a while. Looking back it was worth it to me, but now Allpro makes a bed rack for the first gen Tundras so that may be an easier way to do this. I haven't looked into how to add a canvas top though.
Here you can see the rear window and the snaps along the fabric:
stclair
Adventurer
I removed the entire rear seat as one piece. I believe there are 4 bolts at the very bottom once you fold up the seat bottoms, then simply lift upwards then forwards.
I do plan on removing the insulation on the rear wall one day. I'll have the interior line-xd in flat black as the carpets were pretty stained when I purchased the truck and it should make cleaning easier.
Just a quick update, I have purchased most of the parts to install a Puma 12v air compressor under the bed along with its 1.5 gallon tank. Over the past week I've wired the switches in the center console for the compressor, rear locker, front/driving lights, and some bed lights. I grabbed some switches from http://otrattw.com and they look great. In the next order from McMaster all of the wiring and air hose fittings will come so that I can finish installing these parts. At the same time I will run air hose to the front and rear bumpers for air tool use, run wire to a 12v outlet at the rear bumper, and wire to the LED strip in my UWS toolbox. Unfortunately I still can't find a place nearby to bend the tubes for my "can back."
I did end up removing the rear seat. Easy. From there, we added a plywood base and backing to clean it up. Covered them in carpet, and bolted the backing board using the same points the seat attached to. The base is pretty level, and hinged to allow access to those neat little storage compartments. Now, I'm just looking for a cheap, light weight Rubbermaid type drawer set up to utilize all of my newly acquired storage space. Thanks for the advice.
I ended up placing it under the bed, just behind the cab and to the right of the driveshaft. It worked well, but I had to split the compressor from the tank. This placed the tank above the exhaust and the compressor in front of the rear tire, so I made a splash/heat guard of sorts to cover them. The guard wouldn't slide into place as one piece, so I made it into two. So far no issue with heat concerns. I was going to place it where the spare went, but I was planning on installing a water tank or auxiliary fuel tank there. Unfortunately I don't have a picture of the compressor installed without the guard.
A weekend or two ago I changed out the manual valve with an electric one from Horn Blasters. A luxury for sure, but it's quick and easy to drain the tank. I hooked it up to a momentary switch with the same logo as the air compressor switch.
There is very little that I dislike about the top, thanks for the comments. I will say I should of sewed the tie ups closer to the edges, since this happens when the sides or rear are rolled up:
Thanks. When I bent the frame, I added 2" flat from the front to the back. I then drilled some holes in the flat and welded nuts on the backside. After sewing the top, I added metal grommets to allow the bolts to pass through the canvas, attaching to the nuts. That is where the brackets bolt to, acting like rain gutters for the roof rack feet. The rubber grommets are there to help waterproof the holes.
I made them for the Yakima rack so everything is level, but everything sits too high overall. I'm either going to try another rack, maybe Front Runner, or adjust the Yakima bars so everything sits lower.
I made them for the Yakima rack so everything is level, but everything sits too high overall. I'm either going to try another rack, maybe Front Runner, or adjust the Yakima bars so everything sits lower.
They are from McMaster or Sailrite, I forget exactly. Here is the Sailrite site. They are size #2 though, 3/8" ID, and nickel. I was going to go with stainless steel, but numerous boating boards mentioned they will need to be replaced sooner than the nickel. They are stainless, but still steel, and you never know the quality of some items. I didn't want to install them and see them rust in a year or two. Keep in mind the spur grommets (with teeth) cannot be installed with the same tools as regular, washer grommets. There are specific installation tools for each. If there is any strain on the grommets, I'd get the spur grommets as they hold into the fabric better. You'd also benefit from thicker fabric in that area to reinforce it. Sailrite recommended to triple the Sunbrella fabric there.
4x4Warthog
New member
Awesome Build!
