My Goldilocks Camper - Kimberley Kamper
- Thread starter Romer
- Start date
Tucson T4R
Expedition Leader
I usually am camped in fairly remote locations but I still get a lot of campsite visitors just stopping by to see what the heck the KK is. I have had just random people out exploring, Sheriff deputies, Forest Rangers, hunters and local ranchers all stop into camp an ask to see the KK set up.
Luckily it's been spread out enough not to be a bother and I enjoy showing people how the KK is designed and set up. I just hope they don't start forming a line. :elkgrin:
spressomon
Expedition Leader
Not that I'm opposed to playing salesman for KK, AT or whomever but typically its at least a 30-minute BS dealio if not longer. And if Sandy is along temps start rising fast given how often its occurred.
So now, for inquisitive folks, I just lay the price out there FIRST. Then if they still want to talk I know they're half serious. This really has saved us TONS o'time.
Again...I don't want to come off as someone who isn't interested in helping someone or worse elitist...but I can't tell you how often, after taking 30-60 minutes to jaw about said product, they respond with: "What's one of those cost...$5000 or so?". Sure...in 1975.
:coffeedrink:
Last edited:
Redline
Likes to Drive and Ride
Exactly Dan. You tell them the price and they say "for that"?!
They simply don't understand and know what they are getting for the $$$. Because they are "buying on price" they are better off with a 'cheap' RV.
They simply don't understand and know what they are getting for the $$$. Because they are "buying on price" they are better off with a 'cheap' RV.
Honu
lost on the mainland
Walk-in tours aren't all bad. Over Memorial Day, I got a chance to drive a JDM HDJ81 solo (didn't take it across the river :ylsmoke
.
Driver & his family were down from Canada, saw our KK from the road (over 1/4 mile away), and pulled up to see what it was. I heard the diesel coming into camp, and went to check it out. :drool:
Caroline gave them a tour, while I took a test drive. :smiley_drive:
.Driver & his family were down from Canada, saw our KK from the road (over 1/4 mile away), and pulled up to see what it was. I heard the diesel coming into camp, and went to check it out. :drool:
Caroline gave them a tour, while I took a test drive. :smiley_drive:
DaveInDenver
Middle Income Semi-Redneck
You guys will get used the tours and questions. Been a tour guide since forever with the 'Nest. Seems camper people, 'specially snowbirds RV'ers, know their outfits and have eagle eyes for an oddball.
Romer
Adventurer
The two things that this Camper didn't have that the newer ones did is space for a fridge and a Diesel Heater:
My 45Qt Engel would not fit in the front box, but measuring showed a 35qt Engel would fit. I figure that with the 50 qt ARB in my cruiser would be more then enough for Beer, some food and . . Beer. I sold the 45qt engel and called up Christo and ordered the 35qt. I'll take some pictures when it gets here.
The last two times I was in Moab it was freezing, in the 20's at night. I fortunately had a Mr Buddy heater. Those don't last all night with a 1lb bottle of propane and there is the danger of CO poisoning. Even though I had a separate CO monitor, this is not a good long term solution.
Even though I no longer have an Adventure Trailer, I talked to Martyn at AT and bought one of the Heatsource 2000 propane kits they have. I wanted propane over diesel. The Diesel Heaters tend to suck battery power (at least what I read), and I didn't want to have to carry another fuel type. I will likely get a 5 or 10lb tank as a backup as that would last a few days if the 30lb went empty.
The Heatsource came and it was time to figure out where to install it. Unfortunately, it's a bit wider than the Diesel heaters so it wouldn't fit under the bed on the sides. After a few . . .beers and a cigar, I decided the only place it would fit is the storage box under the bed. The next dilemma was how to route the hot air and return lines.
I finally decided to avoid more cutting on the underside, to route the hot air and return lines to the lid
Now the nervous part. Cutting holes in my new camper.
I first cut two holes out the back of the area for the exhaust and combustion air inlet. Next cut two holes in the lid and used a dremel to open the hole to fit the covers
You can see how thick the lid is with the piece I cut out sitting there
Finally, drilled more holes for a robust mounting bracket. Don't want this bouncing around offroad
After getting the hoses installed onto the unit, I installed it and bolted it in, drilling another hole for the propane line
I am short hose to reach where I put the air inlet, I'll order some more.
The combustion lines wrap around the underside and face the rear
The gas line connects to a propane hose and runs up to the tank. I had a custom 12 foot hose made, but got a pipe fitting end instead of a flared end to connect to the yellow hose you see in the pictures. I'll take it back and get it modified. I put a seperate valve on the propane so there would only be gas in the line when I want to run the heater
I installed the temp controller just above the mattress, I used Velcro until I am sure thats where I want it.
You can see the controller in the left of the last picture and the air vent covers on the top of the storage box under the bed.
I made a groove with my dremel on the left side for the cords to run up by the lid with it remaining closed
Can't wait to get the hose replaced and test it
I did have one "oh crap" moment I am still looking into. Before drilling I looked and located the water tank in the middle part of the trailer with no hoses exiting the bottom side of the box.
When I drilled the bottom holes for the mounting bracket, water started coming out the bottom side, a gallon or so I would guess. I thought I had just wrecked the water tank. Went and looked again and validated the tank and all the associated input and output hosing and drain plug are further towards the front.
The material inside the camper is thick, its possible there is a gap that water from the tank if overflowing can venture back to this point. That still doesnt make sense to me. There are no hoses to pump water out of this area and no drain to get water out. The space for water is about an inch all the way around between the inner liner and the outer metal box on the bottom.
As a precaution, I used quite a lot of "plumbers Goop" in all the mounting and hose holes to provide a water seal. Next time I take it out, I'll fill the tank and see what happens. I also sent an e-mail to Kimberley and we will see what they have to say
EDIT: Kimberley got back to me and said the "You may be getting water accumulating between the metal and plastic boxes you can drill hole in bottom to drain and replace with a grommet because there is no pipes running near there"
My 45Qt Engel would not fit in the front box, but measuring showed a 35qt Engel would fit. I figure that with the 50 qt ARB in my cruiser would be more then enough for Beer, some food and . . Beer. I sold the 45qt engel and called up Christo and ordered the 35qt. I'll take some pictures when it gets here.
The last two times I was in Moab it was freezing, in the 20's at night. I fortunately had a Mr Buddy heater. Those don't last all night with a 1lb bottle of propane and there is the danger of CO poisoning. Even though I had a separate CO monitor, this is not a good long term solution.
Even though I no longer have an Adventure Trailer, I talked to Martyn at AT and bought one of the Heatsource 2000 propane kits they have. I wanted propane over diesel. The Diesel Heaters tend to suck battery power (at least what I read), and I didn't want to have to carry another fuel type. I will likely get a 5 or 10lb tank as a backup as that would last a few days if the 30lb went empty.
The Heatsource came and it was time to figure out where to install it. Unfortunately, it's a bit wider than the Diesel heaters so it wouldn't fit under the bed on the sides. After a few . . .beers and a cigar, I decided the only place it would fit is the storage box under the bed. The next dilemma was how to route the hot air and return lines.
I finally decided to avoid more cutting on the underside, to route the hot air and return lines to the lid
Now the nervous part. Cutting holes in my new camper.
I first cut two holes out the back of the area for the exhaust and combustion air inlet. Next cut two holes in the lid and used a dremel to open the hole to fit the covers
You can see how thick the lid is with the piece I cut out sitting there
Finally, drilled more holes for a robust mounting bracket. Don't want this bouncing around offroad
After getting the hoses installed onto the unit, I installed it and bolted it in, drilling another hole for the propane line
I am short hose to reach where I put the air inlet, I'll order some more.
The combustion lines wrap around the underside and face the rear
The gas line connects to a propane hose and runs up to the tank. I had a custom 12 foot hose made, but got a pipe fitting end instead of a flared end to connect to the yellow hose you see in the pictures. I'll take it back and get it modified. I put a seperate valve on the propane so there would only be gas in the line when I want to run the heater
I installed the temp controller just above the mattress, I used Velcro until I am sure thats where I want it.
You can see the controller in the left of the last picture and the air vent covers on the top of the storage box under the bed.
I made a groove with my dremel on the left side for the cords to run up by the lid with it remaining closed
Can't wait to get the hose replaced and test it
I did have one "oh crap" moment I am still looking into. Before drilling I looked and located the water tank in the middle part of the trailer with no hoses exiting the bottom side of the box.
When I drilled the bottom holes for the mounting bracket, water started coming out the bottom side, a gallon or so I would guess. I thought I had just wrecked the water tank. Went and looked again and validated the tank and all the associated input and output hosing and drain plug are further towards the front.
The material inside the camper is thick, its possible there is a gap that water from the tank if overflowing can venture back to this point. That still doesnt make sense to me. There are no hoses to pump water out of this area and no drain to get water out. The space for water is about an inch all the way around between the inner liner and the outer metal box on the bottom.
As a precaution, I used quite a lot of "plumbers Goop" in all the mounting and hose holes to provide a water seal. Next time I take it out, I'll fill the tank and see what happens. I also sent an e-mail to Kimberley and we will see what they have to say
EDIT: Kimberley got back to me and said the "You may be getting water accumulating between the metal and plastic boxes you can drill hole in bottom to drain and replace with a grommet because there is no pipes running near there"
Last edited:
Tucson T4R
Expedition Leader
Ken,
Very cool idea and well executed.
Not sure where you routed the exhaust. Be sure to route it all the way to the outside rear left corner and let it hang out a few inches. That way when you have all the wrap around canvas installed the exhaust tube will stick through the slot in the canvas and vet outside the enclosed canvas tent living area.
Very cool idea and well executed.
Not sure where you routed the exhaust. Be sure to route it all the way to the outside rear left corner and let it hang out a few inches. That way when you have all the wrap around canvas installed the exhaust tube will stick through the slot in the canvas and vet outside the enclosed canvas tent living area.
Romer
Adventurer
Got the heater working tonight. For some reason it would not work with the yellow furnace hose. Good thing I got an extra 2 feet on the custom hose.
The heater works awesome and puts out a lot of air
Brad, there is not enough hose to snake out through the canvas. It would be rare when I would have all the walls up. I am going to get an extra hose I can slip over the exhaust and run it out on the ground though, just in case.
The key now is how much battery power will I have with a single battery
the Heater puts out 1.9 amps and the fridge will put out 2.5 amps, lets throw another 1 amp for led lights and thats 5.4 amps running continuously for worst case
5.4 amps worst case
on a 105 amp hour battery thats
(105 x .8)/(5.4) = 15.56 hours of run time
for the fridge alone thats (105*.8)/(2.5) =33.6 hours
Since I will only run the heater at night and the fridge constantly
(105 *.8)/(.33*((1.5))+(2.5)= 28 hours of run time
Doesn't seem like much to me on the beefy Deka, but that is worst case on both the fridge and the heater. The fridge won't take as much running as a fridge, so probably more like 40 hours running both and 48 hours just the fridge. As a test in my garage, I had gotten 3.5 days on the fridge.
Someone want to check my math?
I do have a 2000 watt generator, but seems I should install a 2nd battery. I would like to be able to go 3 days without worrying about firing up the generator.
Curious what others have for single battery time with an Engel fridge
The heater works awesome and puts out a lot of air
Brad, there is not enough hose to snake out through the canvas. It would be rare when I would have all the walls up. I am going to get an extra hose I can slip over the exhaust and run it out on the ground though, just in case.
The key now is how much battery power will I have with a single battery
the Heater puts out 1.9 amps and the fridge will put out 2.5 amps, lets throw another 1 amp for led lights and thats 5.4 amps running continuously for worst case
5.4 amps worst case
on a 105 amp hour battery thats
(105 x .8)/(5.4) = 15.56 hours of run time
for the fridge alone thats (105*.8)/(2.5) =33.6 hours
Since I will only run the heater at night and the fridge constantly
(105 *.8)/(.33*((1.5))+(2.5)= 28 hours of run time
Doesn't seem like much to me on the beefy Deka, but that is worst case on both the fridge and the heater. The fridge won't take as much running as a fridge, so probably more like 40 hours running both and 48 hours just the fridge. As a test in my garage, I had gotten 3.5 days on the fridge.
Someone want to check my math?
I do have a 2000 watt generator, but seems I should install a 2nd battery. I would like to be able to go 3 days without worrying about firing up the generator.
Curious what others have for single battery time with an Engel fridge
Romer
Adventurer
Been busy today. routed the propane hose for a more permanent solution
Convinced I need Dual batteries and also convinced I will never need to carry an outboard motor, I have been cutting off the motor mounts on the front of the kamper above the battery box.
You can see one of the mounts sticking up in front of the storage box
Tomorrow, I am going to order a box that will hold two Gr 31 batteris (could hold 3) and have room for storage left over
It will stick into the mesh a bit on the front, but I can work around that
Made in the USA
Constructed of 14/12-gauge black powder coated steel
Dual-striker stainless steel rotary locking paddle latch
Measures 34" across the back, 20.75" across the front, 14.25" deep and 16" tall
Has a 3.61 cu ft capacity and weighs 51 lbs
Convinced I need Dual batteries and also convinced I will never need to carry an outboard motor, I have been cutting off the motor mounts on the front of the kamper above the battery box.
You can see one of the mounts sticking up in front of the storage box
Tomorrow, I am going to order a box that will hold two Gr 31 batteris (could hold 3) and have room for storage left over
It will stick into the mesh a bit on the front, but I can work around that
Made in the USA
Constructed of 14/12-gauge black powder coated steel
Dual-striker stainless steel rotary locking paddle latch
Measures 34" across the back, 20.75" across the front, 14.25" deep and 16" tall
Has a 3.61 cu ft capacity and weighs 51 lbs
Attachments
spressomon
Expedition Leader
51lbs.?! What's it made of...onetwenty plate? That's going to be one strong box Ken!
Good progress on getting it personalized
Good progress on getting it personalized
Romer
Adventurer
The Kimberley comes with mounts to put your outboard motor. Since I don't have one, I decided to cut the mounts off and install dual batteries.
First chore was to find a box. I could not find a dual battery box for two group 31's. I couldn't find one via an Internet search. I walked into my local harbor freight looking for something else and found this for $80
This is a different a smaller box then I posted about above
This fits two GR 31's perfectly with a few inches to spare for some small stuff and a dual switch
First chore was to cut off the motor mounts
Next install the box, batteries and switch.
I also put two 12Volt Marine aux outputs
And I had to get the shorter 35qt engel as the 45 quart would not fit in the front box.
The 35QT fits perfectly with no room to spare
Now I have the Heater, fridge and power to run them.
First chore was to find a box. I could not find a dual battery box for two group 31's. I couldn't find one via an Internet search. I walked into my local harbor freight looking for something else and found this for $80
This is a different a smaller box then I posted about above
This fits two GR 31's perfectly with a few inches to spare for some small stuff and a dual switch
First chore was to cut off the motor mounts
Next install the box, batteries and switch.
I also put two 12Volt Marine aux outputs
And I had to get the shorter 35qt engel as the 45 quart would not fit in the front box.
The 35QT fits perfectly with no room to spare
Now I have the Heater, fridge and power to run them.
Last edited:
Tucson T4R
Expedition Leader
looks great! Nice upgrade. Just curious why you wanted the dual battery switch? I just have my two batteries ganged together as one bank all the time? Do you see a benefit to being able to separate them?
Romer
Adventurer
Several reasons
I have the Hellroaring switch that does the combine and seperate automatically in my Landcruiser
1) If one bad goes bad, it will take the other one down. This includes developing a short that drains the batteries or you forget to turn off the fan. This way you can correct the issue and have a fresh battery.
2) When the battery is drained from normal use, you don't have to react immediatley to save the goodies in the fridge. You can flip the switch to a fully charged battery and have a couple days to throw the generator on to recharge.
3) If for some reason I need to pull a battery, I can disconnect it from the circuit and not have hot cables.
4) If I want to work on the electrical system, I don't have to disconnect the batteries, just turn the awitch to off.
5) It gives me the flexibility to combine them or separate them. I like having flexibility
My intended use is to keep them combined when parked in the garage on the 10AMP smart charger plugged into 110V.
When camped, I will seperate them.
When I have to charge them. I will fire up the generator and through the shore plug, the on battery will be charged at 10 amp/hr.
I will attach my 25 amp/hr charger to the off battery. This is one of those bench smartchargers that you control manually to start, so it would not be good for the long term maintainance in my garage.
There isn't a problem with how you have it. It's more personal preference on my part and having the flexibility to do different things.
I may decide to just keep them combined.
With your heater and fridge, how long do you get on two batteries?