My M1101 and M1102 Buying Experience and Build Thread

edlaffoon

Adventure Every Day
The two things that made me change to regular truck tires............
1) Height, OMG those 37 inch tires make this trailer so tall. Even those with lifted trucks have to run a lifted hitch mount to match it. Even with the smaller tires I can lay comfortably under the trailer and have to reach to touch the bottom.

2) Weight, again OMG those tires and rims are heavy. It literally takes two people to get the a tire in and out of the trailer. Big, awkward, heavy, slow traveling, ect, plus when you switch to lighter truck tires you actually gain trailer capacity. Even just dropping from 150lbs each to 75lbs each using steel rims, you are gaining 150lbs free payload/GVWR. So my M1102 with my 4k lb registration can actually carry the full 2740 lbs and still meet the 4000lb GVWR on my registration.

Just reiterating or adding to this:

You need to be on 2" of lift and 35" plus tires to use these trailers at equal height, otherwise you need a ball adapter.

As for the weight of the wheels/tires they are a lot lighter without the milspec runflat insert and on a smaller non mil tire. I have one mocked up with a 35" BFG AT and it weighs a few pounds more than my steelies with the same tire, nothing the truck can't handle and can be changed by me without issues, but again that is with a 35" tire.

Ben, post pics when you get it all set up dude!

PS: One more thing about the wheels, I'm referring to the 12 bolt version not the 24 bolt version (I don't know which ones the trailers come with)
 
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Trailer Pick-Up Experience

I'm trying to chronicle every step and detail, as no one else has done this. So I picked up the first trailer yesterday. I tried to hurry, in case I could get them both in one day, but I only had time to get one.

Paperwork: Bring your GovPlanet Paid Invoice, and your Item Release. Technically, you only need your Item Release, because this is only available once paid for in full.

Military Base Visitors Pass: These came from Foot Hood, which is one of the easiest bases to deal with. They don't require a scheduled pickup with 5-8 days notice like some bases, so keep that in mind if you get a trailer from another base. Just go to the visitor's Center at the main gate to get a pass. The process took about 20 minutes. They do have a few requirements, so I will cover what you need. You must have (A): Valid (Not Expired) Proof of Insurance (B): Current Vehicle Registration (C): Driver's License of Driver. I was borrowing my Dad's truck, because it will be a month or two before I buy my new 4Runner. Unfortunately, the Printed Vehicle Registration and Proof of Insurance both expired the previous month. For the Vehicle Registration, they allowed me to simply show them a photo of the Window Sticker, which was up to date. For the insurance, they accept proof from a Mobile App, which I didn't have set up, or over the phone confirmation from my Insurance Company. They confirmed our insurance was up to date over the phone and we were ready to go. They offer day passes, or up to 1x week. They gave me a week long pass because I wasn't sure when I could make it back for the other trailer. You only need the Driver's ID for a Visitor's Pass, but you MUST have IDs for every passenger of the vehicle when entering at the main gate.

Pick Up and Loading: These things are definitely tall, but I was able to pick it up with a stock Ford Explorer Sport Track, which is about as low to the ground as you can imagine. You should bring a number of items, just in case you need them. Appropriate Hitch: You will need a Pintle Hitch, or Ball/Pintle Combo Hitch. Military Pintles use 3" Lunettes, but a Civi 2.5" Pintle or combo hitch works fine. There is a bit of slop, but the Surge Brake's Master Cylinder (Which is built into the Tongue) absorbs most of that. Wiring Adaptor or Magnetic Towing Lights: For the Built in lights to function, you will need a Wiring Harness Adaptor(s) to get from the 12 Pin NATO/Military plug to your Standard 7-Pin RV Connector or 4-Pin Flat connector. Even if you have an adaptor, the 24v military lights will be dim running off your truck's 12v electrics. You will unlikely already have an adaptor at this stage, so the better option is to use Magnetic Towing Lights. Magnetic Towing Lights are $50 at Auto parts stores, but Walmart has several options ranging from $18-$40 a pair. These are mostly aluminum trailers, so there are many steel components for mounting options. If you bought a trailer with a complete soft top, or at least the Bow Mounts to attach a Soft Top, the 8 Bow Mounts are steel. However, the Magnetic Lights are wired together, with a single lead to your Tow Vehicle'e Trailer Plug. These trailers are 8" wide, so most magnetic lights won't reach the outside corners of the steel bow mounts. You can mount them to the steel frame which is at the bottom of the trailer, or bring clamps to old them to the top of Aluminum Trailer. Safety Chains: You will need sections of chain and Chain Quick Links that are larger than you would think. They have safety chains (very thick/heavy chains), but they are not long enough to reach the chain attaching points on most standard bumpers. Since your Pintle Hitch extends 12-20 inches from the bumper, they won't reach. The chains on the trailer are only about as long as the Lunette (Loop) of the hitch because most military Pintle Hitches are mounted directly to the bumper next to Safety Chain Attachments, or they have a Safety Chain Pintle Plate if mounted at the end of a Pintle Extension. Air Tank: You may need to air up the tires, so you may want to bring an air tank, or portable 12v compressor. The tires are made for 45psi, with a 50psi MAX. Worst off, they have run flat inserts, so you could drive off base to a nearby gas station to air them up for the drive home. Small Jack: The trailers have jacks, but they don't go low enough for many peoples bumpers. Also, one of my like new trailers had a bad jack, so be prepared. Even though the one trailer had a working jack, I had to jack it up and rest it on a length of 4x4" wood block, and lower it to take off the hitch. I had to lift it off the block, down to the ground, and it took me two or three tries to get it up to my hitch, which was very low to the ground. Even then, I'm sore a day later. Bring a scissor jack and some blocks of wood, trust me! Check Hand Brakes: Make sure the hand brakes are disengaged on BOTH wheels. Each wheel has it's own Hand Brake. Towing Brakes: Even if you don't have the adaptor to connect the trailer cable to your vehicle's trailer connector, the Surge Brakes are non electrical, and will still work. They were so smooth, I didn't even realize they were functioning until I got home. It was empty, but even when backing up several times, the surge brakes never activated in reverse. I'm not sure how much weight it would take for the surge brakes to be activated? That said, and because I don't plan on ever carrying much weight in it, I will likely be keeping the Surge Brakes instead of switching to Electric Brakes. Extra Clamps, Zip Ties, and Duct Tape: You never know what you may need to tie down, so bring some if they aren't items you keep in your truck already. I used clamps to clamp the wires of the Magnetic Towing Lights, so the wires didn't whip around in the wind too much.

IMG_0860.jpgIMG_0862.jpg

If I think of anything else pick up related, I will add it... Next Post: Pictures!!!
 
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This is the first trailer I brought home, the M1102 with Soft Top. I'll go get the other trailer next week, which is the much nicer New/Unissued M1101 trailer. As a reminder, I bought two trailers to keep the extra wheels/Tires from the second one, and to test some projects/ideas on before attempting on the New M1101 I'm keeping. I'll also be keeping the soft top from this trailer before I eventually sell it. After it cleaned up, even for the amount of use it has, I was shocked how nice it looked. Can't wait to bring home the perfect one!

Before Cleaning: I set it up on the legs so I could clean behind where the legs are stored. You can also spin the wheels to clean them all the way around.

IMG_0867.jpgIMG_0864.jpg

Power Washing: If you have an off-road vehicle and/or are interested in these trailers, you probably have a power washer. If you don't have one, it's worth it! I have an electric one, and a new Gas powered one. Gas versions are much better, and heavy duty, but even my new one can be hard to start if more than a month between use. For these trailers, you will want a gas powered version, especially for the top. The advantage of the Trailers sold at Fort Hood, is they aren't taking the time to set up the Tops for the auction photos. Being patient and meticulous will reward you with a trailer that includes a soft top for the same price as one without, because most don't look at all the photos of all the trailers. The downside is the soft tops are wet, dirty, and sometimes a bit of green water is standing inside them by the time you pick it up. The power washer did an amazing job on the rubberized exterior of the Soft Top. It didn't do as well at the marks and scuffs inside the soft top, as it has more of a cloth/canvass surface. You will get wet and messy setting up an already wet soft top, but it is worth it so you can clean it while it is installed. You will want to have a 10-12 ft ladder out to clean the top of the soft top. I didn't bother getting out my ladder yesterday, but I will clean the top when I get the power washer back out to clean my second trailer. The Tan CARC paint is a flat Finish, and gets marked easily from rubber tires, or even rubber cables, etc. The power washer even removes most of the black marks/scuffs. I also used the power washer to remove the Labels/decals from the front of the trailer. If you are slow and patient, the power washer will even remove most of the adhesive left behind from the decals.

I used a 15 degree spray tip on the sprayer, which didn't hurt the indestructible CARC paint, even at close range.
IMG_0874.jpg

Removing Decal/Label Adhesive: For what's left of the adhesive after Power Washing, I use one or more of these products for most Paint/Adhesive/Mark removal. They seam to also work on the trails too. Pure Citrus is actually an Orange Oil Air Freshener, but believe me, it works magic on spot a mark removal, even magic marker. The Goo Gone is another great in-between product. The Goof Off is the best/strongest, but can be damaging to some materials, as it is essentially Paint thinner. The two on the left are safe on most plastic and rubber, but still, always test on a small spot first. The Goof Off is the best on the trailer, as it didn't even touch the finish of the CARC paint. I could even use it sparingly on the outside rubberized soft top, but too much continuous rubbing will start to effect the rubber. With some rubbing, it will completely remove the adhesive, but I did't spend much time on this trailer, but will get all the adhesive off of the nicer trailer I'm keeping.

Great Cleaning Products for Paint/Adhesive/Mark removal
FullSizeRender.jpg

Just after Power Washing:
IMG_0872.jpg

After it Dried Off:
IMG_0886.jpg
 
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Good looking trailer. Congrats on the successful recovery.

I'm going to read your entire thread later, took a quick glance... I'm going to have to start using my DSLR, cause you're making my photos look bad. Just don't like my DSLR around my Power Washer!
 

RagnarD

Adventurer
Thank you. Some are just from an iphone. I have played around with a few 1102s so I am looking forward to your build.

Hopefully I will be updating the build soon. I have three 101A3 trailers in the yard right now am gearing up to start my rebuild/phase 2. Having spent some time with the trailer, there are several things I would like to change and a few things I wish I would have done the first time around.
 

TwinStick

Explorer
Please, do tell, what you would change & done the first time around ???

This is a GREAT thread.

I would LOVE to get a M1102 in mint condition with bars & tarp/cover also in mint condition. Most are junk here in NY State. Dented, cracked lenses, missing parts, brakes f'ed up.
 
Please, do tell, what you would change & done the first time around ???

This is a GREAT thread.

I would LOVE to get a M1102 in mint condition with bars & tarp/cover also in mint condition. Most are junk here in NY State. Dented, cracked lenses, missing parts, brakes f'ed up.

Are you asking what I would have changed if I could do it again? Nothing really, I did a lot of research, and I am sharing everything I learned. I do wish I had found them sooner, as the price has been going up. The opening bids were $275 only a couple months ago, and many were selling for $275-$400 in very nice condition. People were obviously buying to resell in the $900-$1k price range. Now that the price has gone up, so has the market resale price. I am now seeing them resell in the $1200-$1800 range. I think it is the online media attention about the very first ever HMMWVs going up for sale that attracted lots of hungry new buyers to the overly cheap trailers.
 
GovPlanet (Fort Hood, TX) M1101/M1102 Upcoming Auction Inventory

FYI: Fort Hood currently has about 300 more M1101/M1102 trailers already lined up for auction, and they are constantly adding to them. That means there are plenty of trailers to be had, because they are only listing 10-20 trailers per week. Don't feel rushed to get one right now, at any cost, or you will pay for it. This week only ONE trailer includes a soft sop, so don't expect it to go cheap. More will be listed, and they will continue to sell them every week for months to come.

I learned that GovernmentLiquidation lost the Military Contract for Rolling Stock (Anything on Wheels), and GovPlanet took over. However, GovPlanet currently deals ONLY in rolling stock. They probably will not get regular inventory until after their current contract runs out (end of 2016). In the meantime, GovPlanet may soon start including Extra Wheels with M1101/M1102 trailers auctions because they can't sell Wheels separately. All the more reason to hold off on a trailer for a little while.
 

Texas TT

Member
For those of us in Texas you can take the invoice to the tax office and get the plate prior to picking up the trailer. That is what I did when I purchased an M1102. It puts your mind more at ease for the drive home.

A modification I did on mine was to put a spare tire mount underneath the bed, bolted to the frame (I switched to Dodge rims too).



 
A modification I did on mine was to put a spare tire mount underneath the bed, bolted to the frame (I switched to Dodge rims too).
I like your spare tire bracket. I'm stealing your design! I was going to Weld my own based on the GOBI Rack Spare Bracket, but your design is just too simple to pass up on!

UPDATE: I picked up my second trailer today, the M1101! I was planning on keeping this one, but a overlooked dent (albeit very small), would bug me forever. So, I'm taking some extra parts from this trailer to keep for the M1102 I already have. The M1102 has some paint scratched and chipped inside the bad, but I'm going to add Bedliner, so I would rather keep it then start a build on a trailer with a dent.

I pulled it home with my Dad's truck, and I'm hoping to start looking for a nice 2010 4Runner LTD in the next 60 days.

NOTE: I found a great Steel mounting point for Magnetic Towing Lights.
IMG_0962.jpg
I was quite parched after picking up my trailer, and my wife and I needed a refreshment.
IMG_0971.jpg
 

gobi

New member
GovPlanet (Fort Hood, TX) M1101/M1102 Upcoming Auction Inventory

FYI: Fort Hood currently has about 300 more M1101/M1102 trailers already lined up for auction, and they are constantly adding to them. That means there are plenty of trailers to be had, because they are only listing 10-20 trailers per week. Don't feel rushed to get one right now, at any cost, or you will pay for it. This week only ONE trailer includes a soft sop, so don't expect it to go cheap. More will be listed, and they will continue to sell them every week for months to come.

I learned that GovernmentLiquidation lost the Military Contract for Rolling Stock (Anything on Wheels), and GovPlanet took over. However, GovPlanet currently deals ONLY in rolling stock. They probably will not get regular inventory until after their current contract runs out (end of 2016). In the meantime, GovPlanet may soon start including Extra Wheels with M1101/M1102 trailers auctions because they can't sell Wheels separately. All the more reason to hold off on a trailer for a little while.

do you guys know if it is possible to tow the trailer off site without putting it on a different trailer? do I need a temporary license plate? how did you pick up your trailer?
 
do you guys know if it is possible to tow the trailer off site without putting it on a different trailer? do I need a temporary license plate? how did you pick up your trailer?

I am in Texas, and as you can see in my very last post, I am pulling it off the lot behind a vehicle. I talked to some friends that are COPS, and they said they wouldn't care if I pulled it without plates if I had just purchased it. In Texas, you can buy a 1 way permit for only $5 to get it home. Or, you can get it registered and get plates before you even pick up the trailer, as all you need is the Trailer's Manufacturer, Date, Serial, and weight. More importantly, make sure you bring Magnetic Towing Lights as the trailer does not have a civilian trailer plug. Please start by reading this thread from the beginning, as I have carefully included all this info and have already answered these questions in this thread. It will help you start to finish.
 
Benjamin,

What have you seen as far as opening bid, and actual sales prices?

Currently, all GovPlanet opening bids on M1101/M1102 trailers are $300, and they are currently selling from $450-$900, but I paid $1200 for my really nice one. I was watching two in the same condition, but got fixated on one and bid it up to $1225 while the other sold for just $800 or so. I had 4 windows open and won two, but should have switched my bids to the other trailer to save money. Price depends on a number of factors. Year seams to be the main factor that drives up the price. Register on GovPlanet, and you can view completed auctions to see going rate.
 
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