My OVRLND build

[skyfree]

I have a couple more additions to the build which will probably be my last updates. It's working well now and I have everything I need.

First is the awning. I posted this in the general OVRLND thread, but here it is again. It's built using Sunbrella fabric, Keder rope, Keder rope track, an aluminum threshold from the hardware store, some brass grommets, some webbing, 2 collapsable poles, and rope / stakes. I don't sew so I paid someone $40 to do it. As I mentioned in the other thread it is a PITA to setup so I can't recommend the design but it is very light weight which is important to me. I don't need an awning very often -- only when it rains so I can cook without getting wet.

Last is the diesel heater. It's a 2Kw Vevor ordered off aliexpress and put in a Pelican Vault case. The only other things I bought were the 3" plastic things the duct attaches to, the thru-hull fitting for the exhaust, and an extra pipe clamp because the Vevor didn't have enough of them.

This design is shamelessly stolen from here: https://www.intoxventures.com/products/5kw-diesel-heater

Theirs is a 5kw heater and I didn't want that much heat so I had to copy and build using my own. I highly recommend buying theirs though. You will save a lot of time and effort.

I made one mistake which is that I used the air intake hose to put OVER the exhaust pipe that they included. I was concerned about the connection with the thru-hull fitting which didn't seem secure. Sleeving the exhaust pipe worked well, but that air intake hose is plastic coated and it smells like burning plastic now. I will correct that after I obtain some better material.

The heat provided is adequate for sure. I use it at about a 2.1 frequency on manual. I heard it's better to not run these on the lowest setting so using a 2Kw heater allows me to run it a little higher to keep it clean without baking myself (and my husky) out of there. I like the remote which I can use to turn it on or off from inside. The remote is velcro'd to the top of the case so I don't lose it. The 5L tank lasts about 20 hours. The case needs more stability to not tip over when the tank is full so I might add some stabilizer feet on the case.

I didn't want to cut a large hole in the camper to get the heat in so I built a very lightweight wedge thing out of left over Polyiso and some metal duct tape.

 

[jclewe]

What is the standing hidhgt with your Colorado?

Part 2: The drawer/storage unit

The insulation and electrical work was completed in late March and then I started work on the furniture. I wanted one piece that I could bolt down to the truck bed (no attachments to camper) and remove easily by myself. Lightweight was important so I chose 8020 style 1" extrusion from TNutz which is a little cheaper than 8020. The wood is 3/8" and 1/4" Baltic Birch ply. I used about 12 sq ft of 3/8" and 20 sq ft of 1/4" ply which is about 30 lbs. From the shipping I know that the aluminum weighed 40 lbs. The 36" drawer slides are 10 lbs. There is probably another 10 lbs of stuff on there between the storage bins, water pump, and propane tank mount, so I figure about 90 lbs. Someday I will get around to weighing it.

The design took a couple of weeks. Tolerances are very tight to fit everything I need into the very limited space. I have pages of drawings for this thing, so it was exciting to finally get the frame put together and test fit into the truck:
View attachment 660654
The mount points ended up changing since that obviously didn't work. I ended up with 6 mount points including 2 on the vertical bed surface on the cab side. I also got some wrong screws for the t-slot which I had to re-order. I put it together initially with some screws from the hardware store and then replaced them all later with strong hex button head screws after they got shipped (ug!).

I found the aluminum easy to work with, but my cabinet building/carpentry skills are poor and that part was frustrating with some do-overs. It works, but it's not up to the high standards others have set for furniture on this site! It's particularly hard to get the drawer sized right to fit with the slides, but it worked out in the end.

One pro tip is don't use stain/poly all-in-one paint. That is really hard to get an even coat. Next time I would just take the time and stain / seal separately.

Here is the finished product:
View attachment 660665
The drawer slide releases are 1/8" from the closed tailgate. The drawer handles were 1/4" too deep so I had to cut them which was a real PIA.

The tailgate on the Colorado does not sit flat. It has a pronounced slope to it, which wasn't going to work. The bottom of that drawer is 1" above the truck bed, so I had to lower it to clear that. I couldn't find longer tailgate cables so I just modified the hardware and drilled out the holes larger which gave me what I needed. There is 1/8" between the drawer and tailgate when the drawer is extended.

Drawer extended:
View attachment 660666

The drawer is sized in height to fit the GSI Selkirk 540 stove. I didn't want it too high because I needed to be able to see into and reach into the fridge easily. After building it I was happy with the access to the fridge.

View attachment 660667

It's a DFG fridge slide built for the Indel-B TB31a that I've had for years. I don't need a lot of fridge space so this works well for me.

The "sink" is a large collapsible dog bowl. It can be lifted out and tossed when full. I went with that rather than a real sink for weight and ability to have a sink without plumbing. Any plumbing that hung down would take away from the storage space under the sink when the slide is pushed in. I can store my minimal kitchen gear, plates, cups, and utensils in there.

Here it is with the stove deployed:
View attachment 660669

I had to carefully bend the regulator pipe to work. It's attached to a 5-lb propane bottle with an extension hose. It looks awkward to use the stove since it's inboard on the tailgate but it's not a problem at all in practice.

Notice how the fridge slide is offset to the left. This is so I can slide out the fridge with the stove open:
View attachment 660671

When the sink is deployed, there is an extra board I can insert above the storage area to have a work surface. The board stores on top of the stove when not used:
View attachment 660680

This kitchen setup solves a lot of convenience issues for me when cooking. The only hassle is attaching the propane regulator to the stove, but that's only really needed twice a day so I can live with that. This is ripe for future enhancement but I haven't figured out the hardware for that yet.

@skyfree What is the standing height of the camper? I have Colorado and I want to make sure I can stand in the tent. I am a tall person at 6'6"

 

[skyfree]

What is the standing hidhgt with your Colorado?


@skyfree What is the standing height of the camper? I have Colorado and I want to make sure I can stand in the tent. I am a tall person at 6'6"

Camper and truck are at our house in Tahoe right now and I am not, but I think it's 6'7". Best bet is to call Jay and ask. It will depend on whether you get extra cabover height, which will give you extra popped height as well.

 

[dirtnsmores]

How's your build going? Will probably be placing my order soon for my camper to put on my 1st Gen tundra double cab

 

[christo777]

Checkout this stuff: https://www.usenergyproducts.com/collections/reflective-sealer-foam-core-1
Its like Reflectix, but 5mm closed cell foam core with actual insulation capability, which Reflectix really doesn’t have. Not sure I fully believe their R8 rating, though.

I just finished insulating our camper shell with it. I’ve also used Rflectix for other things in the past. This stuff is as easy to work with and as light, but seems more durable and certainly is more insulating. I put it up with VHB, and it’s held up really well so far. The nice thing is you can VHB it to the frame members and leave an air gap to the skin and avoid the thermal bridging problems. I covered it up with white chloroplast, except for the ceiling and we really like it. You can find this on Amazon, which is where I first ran into it, but it’s mostly 3 mm foam core, which to my mind is not thick enough. I just ordered it straight from US Energy Products, and they have a lot more options in sizes and lengths.

Hey--what size roll did you get from US Energy to complete your insulation?

 

[dstefan]

Hey--what size roll did you get from US Energy to complete your insulation?

I found the receipt in my email blackhole, amazingly!


Keep in mind, I have the extra 2” in the cabover. I think I recall ordering one more shorter (maybe 12’ ?) roll of 2’ wide later to complete things, but had some left over. It was really useful to get the various widths as cutting long lengths to width is more tedious and hard to do accurately than cross cutting.

In most places, I adhered the insulation to the frame members leaving an air gap to the camper wall, as that’s what’s recommended for the radiant barrier to be most effective. However, I did double up the layers in some key areas.

One thing I think I’d do differently is not use the good 3M 5952 tape with this, or the Coroplast paneling again. Or at least only in some key area. The 3M really, really, holds well — too well if you need to pull something later.

I used this stuff in both 1/4” and 1” widths in some places (but not the ceiling). It holds nearly as well as the 3M and has stood up to the heat in Phoenix, but it’s easier to pry the coroplast and the insulation when I’ve needed to at times, it also cleans off the aluminum a bit easier, and it’s cheaper too!

Or some good 3m adhesive velcro in some places?

 

[christo777]

I found the receipt in my email blackhole, amazingly!
View attachment 804435

Keep in mind, I have the extra 2” in the cabover. I think I recall ordering one more shorter (maybe 12’ ?) roll of 2’ wide later to complete things, but had some left over. It was really useful to get the various widths as cutting long lengths to width is more tedious and hard to do accurately than cross cutting.

In most places, I adhered the insulation to the frame members leaving an air gap to the camper wall, as that’s what’s recommended for the radiant barrier to be most effective. However, I did double up the layers in some key areas.

One thing I think I’d do differently is not use the good 3M 5952 tape with this, or the Coroplast paneling again. Or at least only in some key area. The 3M really, really, holds well — too well if you need to pull something later.

I used this stuff in both 1/4” and 1” widths in some places (but not the ceiling). It holds nearly as well as the 3M and has stood up to the heat in Phoenix, but it’s easier to pry the coroplast and the insulation when I’ve needed to at times, it also cleans off the aluminum a bit easier, and it’s cheaper too!

Or some good 3m adhesive velcro in some places?

Awesome, thanks! I have extra cabover as well. I'm using the 3M VHB tape for the paneling right now, but was thinking velcro in most areas for the reflective roll--I do like the idea of some cheaper/weaker tape to go over some of the framing areas, especially the ceiling. I think I'll give your recs a shot.