Fringes of the Simpson Desert
Well the day had finally arrived. It was the start of our 5 week trip into central Australia.
The apprehension of going solo with two kids under 5, and driving the doomed Tdci according to some, had all but evaporated. Joy, freedom, and smiles were the order of the day.
The plan was Birdsville, Hay River, Plenty Highway, East McDonnell Range, Alice Springs, Old Andado track, Mt Dare, WAA line, Rig Road, Innamincka home. We had no idea that we would ultimately do 7300km in total with 4700 of them on sand, dirt, or gravel. We knew it would be flat and sparse, but we were blown away just how beautiful, interesting, and amazing the desert regions are.
happy campers
First stop Caliguel Lagoon, Condamine. It is possible to camp here and fish if you like.
We wanted to visit Welford NP just Nth of Quilpie. We started to find what we came for.
It has the Barcoo River pass through it which joins the Cooper River and ultimately feeds the Lake Eyre catchment. The bird life if here is prolific with finches and wrens. Camping was pleasant.
I found Birdsville an interesting place. It has an air of anticipation to it. Probably because it’s on the edge of the desert and is the start or end of many adventures. Perhaps it’s the history and it’s hotels, perhaps it’s just a long way from anywhere.
Anyway I discovered they have trees full of Galah’s opposed to bats.
One of the biggest reasons we stuck at this trip was the run of wet seasons the desert has had recently. Seeing water out here and how green it was, with all you learn at school about how hot and dry it is, was something special for us.
The wife was a bit concerned about getting lost, I said there is a track and a sign, it will be OK. But no we had to phone a friend back at Birdsville to cross check we were reading the GPS and grid references correctly. We were counting km and land marks, we were doing everything but reading the stars and wellA....what would I know...
Camping out here is a dream, anywhere that looks nice will do. The wind blows most days till around 4.30-5, but after that the stillness and silence is just magic.
We didn’t make a habit of crossing salt lakes, but found it can give you a lunar experience.
The Hay River track runs for most part in line with the dunes. There is a small section that crosses the dunes, and another section that goes up the centre of the river. But largely it shadows the river and is a windy track with varying desert swale. It took us 4 comfortable days from Birdsville to Batton Hill at the top of the track some 75km East of Jarvois Station. A permit is required and easy to get. Our days were usually 9.30 to 3.30-4, we did nor see anyone for three days.
Lake Caroline