NAS LR3 build with an overseas twist

Ray_G

Explorer
PSA; don't try and flash your ECU w/your IID tool above 85deg ambient air temps...that didn't go well...
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unseenone

Explorer
Awe Crud.... Keep up posted... did you have a battery charger on it. Gap guys are pretty good at correcting such problems.
 

Ray_G

Explorer
Awe Crud.... Keep up posted... did you have a battery charger on it. Gap guys are pretty good at correcting such problems.

Battery was fine, fully charged. Have re-flashed/updated prob a dozen times without ever having a battery charger on it, highly doubt that's why it decided to freak out. Deep in the depths of d3.uk there was a discussion about the ECU's not liking to be re-written over a certain temp (rarely an issue in the UK one would imagine). If I had to guess, that's what I did to myself since it was still hot at that point of the afternoon.

I do need to engage GAP to see if there is a workaround for those that are using the instrument cluster to control when the instrument cluster is no longer 'awake'. As it was the dealer did it externally and she's alive and fine now, with just my wallet a bit lighter given the hours they billed (4, aka $560 or so).
r-
Ray
 

unseenone

Explorer
ouch... ya, sorry about that one. It would be worth trying Gap. I don't imagine you had time to mess around though. I've seen vehicles seemingly bricked come back with BBS, though I highly do not recommend their tool. It corrupted my entire system, Gap was able to fix it though, through support..
 

Ray_G

Explorer
ouch... ya, sorry about that one. It would be worth trying Gap. I don't imagine you had time to mess around though. I've seen vehicles seemingly bricked come back with BBS, though I highly do not recommend their tool. It corrupted my entire system, Gap was able to fix it though, through support..

Time def worked against me, truck was dead in a lot next to the Ex's house (community center) and was well after working hours in the UK-thus towing was engaged and the problem was offset with the great equalizer...$$$$. Lesson's were learned, and I will def be engaging Gap as I'm fairly sure there is a way to do this even without the interface but at the time I had no bandwidth to pull it off. Likely the biggest lesson aside from the strong sense that the heat was the dominant factor was to not be cavalier about playing with it-so for now my cluster will have no clock on it as a reminder to not be a **************. At least the 3 flash still works.

I will note that since I knew I was going to be paying LR to fix it I did ask them if, when the reloaded the CCF, could they 'build' it as a coil sprung vice EAS truck and the service rep told me-in the notes of the invoice-that they couldn't 'without prior LR approval' so I've now embarked on a campaign about that just to see why and push that threshold a bit.
 

Ray_G

Explorer
Snomaster Fridge install & first impressions, pt 1

Returning to the US meant that I now have the wife and the mistress in terms of Land Rovers...with last week's self inflicted wound making it clear in my mind that Coyote is the old reliable vehicle and the D3, well, she's fun but... Anyway I'd moved the ironman fridge into the D1 with the intent of keeping that there moving forward and the desire to backfill the D3's middle center seat with a new fridge. I'd considered Engel and ARB, as well as sourcing another Ironman/Indel B but with our very own forum member branching out from beyond the Rhino Hitch to also include the importation of the Snomaster line of fridges from SA I decided to give them a shot after dialogue back and forth with unseenone and looking at his full product line (Snomaster's FB page or snomasterusa.com. I opted on the 42L Traveler series in stainless. (Traveler 42L SS

I already posted a pic of it as it arrived, well boxed and wrapped via a well known/well regarded freight provider. The boxing is nice in that as you unwrap it more/less falls away so you aren't dumping out the fridge or trying to heave it out of the tight cardboard wrapping. Fridge came in the provided transit bag which is a nice touch and illustrative that pound for pound you are getting a good value for the $.
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Controls are somewhat easy to access via the cut outs in the transit bag, I will admit I wasn't a big fan of the bag on first impression and still think it could be improved but would caveat that impression by saying that I'm rapidly realizing that the remote renders those controls and the subsequent issues with the bag far less relevant. More on that throughout this and the subsequent post.
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Two baskets is really nice, and its worth noting that-at least for the LR3/LR4 center seat placement the orientation of having the smaller basket forward over where I assume, based off the vents, the compressor is works out optimally as it means the venting for the compressor is in the footwell of the seat-and the smaller basket is in a place where the co-driver can easily grab drinks and such. All of the cordage came in the fridge, in the baskets-nicely tucked away.
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Well made AC & DC cords, a bottle opener (nice touch, even if I can't really use it given the orientation-esp nice that it bolts in to existing hardware) and the remote. More on the wireless remote in a moment, I have grown fonder and fonder of it.
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In true Rover owner fashion I plugged it in and started it without reading the instructions. Compressor works fast and is quiet, in this case I started on house power to see how it all worked out.
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A view from the remote, illustrating its utility and readouts-very nice to be able to look at AC vs DC, change temps, get a sense of how the battery input is doing (not visible at this point since she's plugged into the wall).
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Nifty aspect of the remote is the solar panel on the back to recharge it-in theory you could stop somewhere and just throw it on the dash or whatever and let it re-charge during the day.
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Seizing the moment to go ahead and do the install, middle seat comes out and goes on the shelf...beside the 40 section of Coyote's 60/40 back seat (also removed for a fridge).
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I dislike 12v cigar lighter style plugs a great deal so the next step was to cut and re-wire with an anderson plug. The little helper and I made quick work and it provides, in my opinion, a much better solution for connecting the fridge to the aux battery.
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I had thought about buying the ARB tie down setup again but then realized I had a ton of fastex buckles, triglides, and nylon strapping in my garage so why make this harder than it is-thus the handle end got female buckles fore/aft and the bolt plates in the floor got straps with the male ends.
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to be continued....
 

Ray_G

Explorer
Snomaster Fridge install & first impressions, pt 2

...and we're back.

I used the same style of bolt plates from the previous iteration of installing the ironman into the middle section-pardon the dirt on the black carpet that hides nothing. A keen eye will note the rear bolt plates are tan, that is because they came from something I'd had in coyote and for the life of me we couldn't find the 4 black bolt plates I'd had in the D3 previously. Of course about 4 days later, I found the black ones but whatever.
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Illustrating the mating of the buckles and how it is strapped down from the aft view.
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Isabella testing out the ergonomics; it meets her approval-slightly higher than the ~37L Ironman which I think is actually better in the role as a pseudo console between passengers. The wife's initial impression was positive with the one comment being 'that is a lot of gray' (the transit bag) and 'can you make it have more black like the last one?' That falls out somewhere between a specified and an implied task, after a brief hilarious discussion with unseenone over text about dyeing it-I can't even fathom me and Rit dye trying to do that, I'd end up with a transit bag likely as purple as Grimace, I decided to use some spare black rubber diamond plate matting on the top like I did on the last one and see if that met muster, pics to follow.
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The fridge wasn't getting good power from the aux battery-almost certainly a reflection of my wiring prowess and the nature of having a long run of wire going from the front of the truck to the far back, through the fuse block, and then out to the fridge. While I think after the fridge settled in it would have been ok I decided to pull the truck back in the technology center and run directly off the aux battery and she's been much happier ever since since it's a far shorter run coming through the bulkhead in front of the driver and running to just behind the center console. Having a two car garage, beer, and nobody telling me not to work until 2300 = priceless
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While doing the rewire it became apparent that the remote actually fits perfectly into a RAM cradle for an ipod classic-and with space left on my bracket Amazon received an order for a 2nd one of those immediately.
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I also went ahead and routed the AC cable to under the left side rear passenger seat, since from time to time I will plug it into the house and I wanted it in a location where I am most likely to see it as a stumble out of the house and head off to work-hopefully without ripping the extension cord out of the house and carrying it down the road. Fridge switches seamlessly from AC to DC as you unplug.
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Ram mount arrived, two modifications needed. The first was adjusting the bottom to allow for the plugging in of whatever version of a USB cord the remote takes to charge it since I didn't intend to rely on solar alone. The USB cord came from our electronics graveyard, its a fairly common size & the plastic was easy to manipulate with a dremel.
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I also drilled in an opening for the remote's power switch on the right side of the ram mount so that I can turn it off if the truck will be sitting for a protracted time.
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The remote now installed beside my ipod's cradle. Also illustrating its readout when on battery power and such, a nice touch since you get a de facto voltmeter for your aux (or primary) battery.
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As she sits now with the aesthetic rubber matting in place, in theory I guess it also acts as a surface with more friction than just the canvas bag for the kiddos or other passengers to put things on there without them flying off. At least that's the justification in my mind. Held in place by velcro, with the top of the transit bag further held in place to the top of the fridge with velcro as well.
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Fridge has been on and in use constantly since arrival with no issues. I did turn it off before it went and sat at the dealership due to my re-flash failure but otherwise I just leave it on and one it gets to temp its draw on the battery does not seem significantly worse than any other fridge I've experienced. It is worth noting I'm doing myself no favors here since the truck gets HOT given her green paint/black interior, yet the snomaster continues. Build quality seems quite good and when you take into account the stainless steel exterior, dual baskets, the transit bag inclusion, and the wireless remote functionality all for the standard price point I think it is evident that for a major purchase for most of us you are more than getting your money's worth. Moreover the chance to do business with a forum member who stands by all his products has value in its own right and I have little doubt that my initial very positive impression of this fridge is likely to continue and indeed grow as we use it.
 

Ray_G

Explorer
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A milestone passed, fitting that it happened on the way up to WV for a weekend in the mtns.


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unseenone

Explorer
I'm right behind you...... Ray it occurs to me LR did make a limited number of coil sprung models..... So why should it be an issue.. If you have a gap-- drop them an e-mail, I think they could probably sort you out.
 

Ray_G

Explorer
I'm right behind you...... Ray it occurs to me LR did make a limited number of coil sprung models..... So why should it be an issue.. If you have a gap-- drop them an e-mail, I think they could probably sort you out.

Gap is on the list to hit up as it strikes me this can't be that hard-but I still owe you feedback on transit bags! Clausewitz and Hobbes have consumed me.


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