Need answers from ANY 03-06 TJ OWNERS

ExpoGeorgia

Observer
How is it going Expedition Portal members...

Ok, so I'm considering on purchasing 2004 Jeep Rubicon LJ within the next couple of weeks and I'd like to get pro's and con's about this specific model from owners. The reason for me considering this tradeoff is because I own a daily driven 1979 Chief Cherokee (401 motor, 4.5 inch suspension lift with 35's, heavy duty bumpers, etc) and I'm looking for a vehicle which is capable of being a varient street/highway/backroad/weekend expedition vehicle while offering more than 11mpg at its best:sombrero:

How is a lifted Rubicon LJ's ride quality and handling on the highway?

Which motor offers the best benifits in terms of power, mpg's, etc?

What type of figures for gas mileage are you all seeing (state which motor)?

How much more room is offered in comparison to a normal TJ?

What about OEM rollcage strength in case of a rollover, how strong is it? Is there need for an aftermarket cage?

Any other information on modifying the axles to handle bigger tires?

Since this LJ will not be a full expedition vehicle but a weekly (3-4 days out of the week) overland offroader, what are you all's thoughts on a 5.5-6 inch lift (in total, 5 suspension, 1 body) with 38/15/50 inch tires?

Thanks for answering the slew of questions, I am fairly new to Tj's...
 

alosix

Expedition Leader
Since this LJ will not be a full expedition vehicle but a weekly (3-4 days out of the week) overland offroader, what are you all's thoughts on a 5.5-6 inch lift (in total, 5 suspension, 1 body) with 38/15/50 inch tires?

This setup will not net you greater than your desired 11 mpg.

4" lift, AEV highline fenders, and 37x12.5s Might get you 15 or so.

Jason
 

ijeep_2

Observer
My 04 rubicon, while not an lj, had 4.5" long arm lift and 35" bfg at's, airaid intake, magnaflow exhaust, and a throttle body spacer and usually got mid 15,s on the highway. It rode really well. In fact my family of four took several 8 hour trips in it. It was a great all around setup. I sure miss it.
 

ExpoGeorgia

Observer
This setup will not net you greater than your desired 11 mpg.

4" lift, AEV highline fenders, and 37x12.5s Might get you 15 or so.

Jason

Thanks for your input although I am determined to go with 38's and at least a 5 inch lift. I'm in high school now, but once I get the freshmen year at college started, I'm planning to sell my 97 2500 Cummins and do a diesel motor swap. At the moment I'm trying to get some figures of how much $$$ it will cost me if I decide to do it.

My 04 rubicon, while not an lj, had 4.5" long arm lift and 35" bfg at's, airaid intake, magnaflow exhaust, and a throttle body spacer and usually got mid 15,s on the highway. It rode really well. In fact my family of four took several 8 hour trips in it. It was a great all around setup. I sure miss it.

Thanks for your input. I love my FSJ Chief, however its a little too big from what I need as of now since I'm doing trails rather than long distance expeditions. Did your truck have any death wobble while at highway speeds?
 

wheels

New member
Expo... i'm in the market for an LJ as well, and from the research i've done... i don't think they offered the LJ as a Rubicon until 05. I could mistaken though. just trying to save you some money...
 

alosix

Expedition Leader
Thanks for your input although I am determined to go with 38's and at least a 5 inch lift. I'm in high school now, but once I get the freshmen year at college started, I'm planning to sell my 97 2500 Cummins and do a diesel motor swap. At the moment I'm trying to get some figures of how much $$$ it will cost me if I decide to do it.



Thanks for your input. I love my FSJ Chief, however its a little too big from what I need as of now since I'm doing trails rather than long distance expeditions. Did your truck have any death wobble while at highway speeds?

Sorry if I came across a little short there.

The height of a LJ @ 5" and 38s plus the fact that you're looking @ 15" wide tires you'd be lucky to see double digit gas mileage. That would be a very big brick with a lot of rolling resistance.

38s are probably about the end of what you could reliably put on 'TJ' rubicon Dana 44s as well. If you really wanted something that size a normal non rubicon LJ would probably be a better starting point.



Jason
 

cocco78

Adventurer
Yeah if you are planning on 38's I would not get a Rubicon, Rubicon Dana 44's will not hold up to 38's, the front 44 is still a D30 from the knuckles out. Plus the 4.10 gears are no where near what you are going to need, 5.13 to 5.38's. I run 37" toyo's on my TJ for day to day driving and expo'ing, and 38" swampers for wheeling. I run a D60 front, D70 rear with 5.13 gears and its tolerable on the road with the 4.0L and 5speed. With my 37" toyo's I can pull a high of 14-15mpg on the highway if its not windy or hilly.

The factory cage is a good start, you can add to it to save a few bucks and make it sturdy unless you are racing or competing.

The ride quality all depends on how much money you want to spend. Short arms suck, long arms ride much better but cost $$
 

DrMoab

Explorer
Thanks for your input although I am determined to go with 38's and at least a 5 inch lift.

I'm in high school now

I'm not going to knock you too bad for this but it just struck me as funny. Maybe it was funny because at one time we were all in High school and determined to do whatever we wanted...didn't matter if it was smart or not.

There is a lot of very smart people here. You would be wise...beyond your years if you actually listened to them.

A Jeep...any jeep with 38 inch tires will pretty much suck. It will suck gas. It will suck to drive. It will suck to have to replace those expensive tires in a couple of years. It will suck either breaking stock parts or it will suck buying a very expensive drivetrain to replace what a stock Rubi comes with.

I won't tell you not to do it. I've done it, and when I did it, nobody would have talked me out of it...Just like you. I've grown up a lot since then though.
 

cocco78

Adventurer
I don't think it will suck that much. My TJ rides and drives as good as it did on 33's, but it took ALOT of work to get it to this point. And don't under estimate how much money it takes to do it correct! I'm still using my original 3.5" lift springs now that I had back when I had stock axles and 33's. I'm running the 3.5" springs, long arms, 1.25" body lift and have plenty of room for my 37's. I actually just getting ready to do a 2200 mile road trip from MI to NC with it. If you don't do your research and try to piece some stuff together its going to turn out like crap and will suck. Yes, gas mileage tends to suck but no more than any other build rig. Last fall I did a 1000 mile expo trip across upper MI which was about 80% off-road, I averaged 13mpg over the whole trip and that was with pulling my trailer to.

a4bmno.jpg
 

Azlugz

Adventurer
My 06 LJ was on 33x12.50's with a 4.5" RE superflex kit and it rode great. Mileage sucked tho. 14 on the hiway, 11-12 in town and 7-9 wheeling and that was after putting in 4.56 gears

As for the Rubicon, you are wasint money there for what you claim you are going to do. The 44's will not survive a young guy wheeling it on 38's, you are going to need 60's. This means that have of the rubicon cost is wated on the rubi axles. The other half, the 4:1 T-case, well, the cost difference between a regular LJ and a Rubi will pay for a swap in 241 case or an Atlas. If you want it for the name, buy some stickers and rebadge it.

Next, comfort will not be an issue for driving on the hiway if you are going to 38's, there is normally no such thing......anything above 35's is hard to balance and keep balanced. Most everyone I know running 38" or bigger say they always have tires out of balance. Another point is COST!!! 38's are really pricey for a DD.

As for interior space, its great.

DSC05949.jpg


DSC07360-mod.jpg





I say that if you can afford it, more power to ya but it doesn't seem like a logical choice for what you say you will use it for.
 
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brennanriddle1

Adventurer
How is it going Expedition Portal members...

and I'm looking for a vehicle which is capable of being a varient street/highway/backroad/weekend expedition vehicle while offering more than 11mpg at its best...

If you don't mind me asking, what type of wheeling is there to do in georgia?

38's make logical sense for big rocks or deep mud. To me it sounds like they might be overkill for what you're trying to achieve.

Of course it comes down to the $$$. Not only in tires but axles as well (since you will break stock axles with 38's).
 

ExpoGeorgia

Observer
Expo... i'm in the market for an LJ as well, and from the research i've done... i don't think they offered the LJ as a Rubicon until 05. I could mistaken though. just trying to save you some money...

It is what the LJ was listed as, so I will see this weekend. From what I know, the Rubicon LJ's started production in 2005 so maybe the seller (or his wife) made an typing error.

Sorry if I came across a little short there.

The height of a LJ @ 5" and 38s plus the fact that you're looking @ 15" wide tires you'd be lucky to see double digit gas mileage. That would be a very big brick with a lot of rolling resistance.

38s are probably about the end of what you could reliably put on 'TJ' rubicon Dana 44s as well. If you really wanted something that size a normal non rubicon LJ would probably be a better starting point.


Jason

Thank you for your reply. I know that I'm pushing it with the tire size, however I am not concerned too much about the fuel mileage. It should get more than 11 mpg, obviously not by much. As far as the axle, I knew that it had to be upgraded in order to handle that much weight so I've been looking at some LJ's for sale which have had the Dana 60 put in. The Jeep I'm seeing this weekend has the Dana 60's, but if its not up to my expectations, I will be getting a regular LJ.

Yeah if you are planning on 38's I would not get a Rubicon, Rubicon Dana 44's will not hold up to 38's, the front 44 is still a D30 from the knuckles out. Plus the 4.10 gears are no where near what you are going to need, 5.13 to 5.38's. I run 37" toyo's on my TJ for day to day driving and expo'ing, and 38" swampers for wheeling. I run a D60 front, D70 rear with 5.13 gears and its tolerable on the road with the 4.0L and 5speed. With my 37" toyo's I can pull a high of 14-15mpg on the highway if its not windy or hilly.

The factory cage is a good start, you can add to it to save a few bucks and make it sturdy unless you are racing or competing.

The ride quality all depends on how much money you want to spend. Short arms suck, long arms ride much better but cost $$

Thanks for your input. What axle and gear ration comes on the regular LJ's (non Rubicon)? I've been looking at some long arm lift kits and so far, Ruff Country is the only good one which isn't over the top expensive and has good reviews. Any sugguestions?

I'm not going to knock you too bad for this but it just struck me as funny. Maybe it was funny because at one time we were all in High school and determined to do whatever we wanted...didn't matter if it was smart or not.

There is a lot of very smart people here. You would be wise...beyond your years if you actually listened to them.

A Jeep...any jeep with 38 inch tires will pretty much suck. It will suck gas. It will suck to drive. It will suck to have to replace those expensive tires in a couple of years. It will suck either breaking stock parts or it will suck buying a very expensive drivetrain to replace what a stock Rubi comes with.

I won't tell you not to do it. I've done it, and when I did it, nobody would have talked me out of it...Just like you. I've grown up a lot since then though.

LOL, thank you for your responce. I'm a very humble guy and any words of wisdom recieved are taken into consideration! And your right, any Jeep or non diesel powered 4x4 vehicle with tires over 33's will suck in relation to fuel. As far as suspension and other parts wearing out much faster, thats why I am here asking for advice from more experianced members. I want to learn about what options I have in regards to what I'm asking, hear about owners personal experiance with these types of upgrades, etc... just to inform myself so I don't have to make the expensive mistakes.

I don't think it will suck that much. My TJ rides and drives as good as it did on 33's, but it took ALOT of work to get it to this point. And don't under estimate how much money it takes to do it correct! I'm still using my original 3.5" lift springs now that I had back when I had stock axles and 33's. I'm running the 3.5" springs, long arms, 1.25" body lift and have plenty of room for my 37's. I actually just getting ready to do a 2200 mile road trip from MI to NC with it. If you don't do your research and try to piece some stuff together its going to turn out like crap and will suck. Yes, gas mileage tends to suck but no more than any other build rig. Last fall I did a 1000 mile expo trip across upper MI which was about 80% off-road, I averaged 13mpg over the whole trip and that was with pulling my trailer to.

a4bmno.jpg

Thanks and lol, I'm definently not underestimating the cost and time involved with such a project. This comes from someone who has modified a 2nd gen 2500 Cummins (has Hx40/S300 compound turbo kit, DTT built transmission, 4 inch exhaust, 90hp injectors, etc) and put much time and $$$ into it because I went into it piecing it together. I'm trying to do it right with this Jeep if I decide to do so. But how is the handling at highway speeds with your lift/tire specs? Also, could you post a few more pics?

My 06 LJ was on 33x12.50's with a 4.5" RE superflex kit and it rode great. Mileage sucked tho. 14 on the hiway, 11-12 in town and 7-9 wheeling and that was after putting in 4.56 gears

As for the Rubicon, you are wasint money there for what you claim you are going to do. The 44's will not survive a young guy wheeling it on 38's, you are going to need 60's. This means that have of the rubicon cost is wated on the rubi axles. The other half, the 4:1 T-case, well, the cost difference between a regular LJ and a Rubi will pay for a swap in 241 case or an Atlas. If you want it for the name, buy some stickers and rebadge it.

Next, comfort will not be an issue for driving on the hiway if you are going to 38's, there is normally no such thing......anything above 35's is hard to balance and keep balanced. Most everyone I know running 38" or bigger say they always have tires out of balance. Another point is COST!!! 38's are really pricey for a DD.

As for interior space, its great.

DSC05949.jpg


DSC07360-mod.jpg





I say that if you can afford it, more power to ya but it doesn't seem like a logical choice for what you say you will use it for.

Thanks for your responce. I don't want the Rubicon for the name, this one just happened to be for sale for a pretty decent price (plus it has an ARB front bumper, winch, and removable hardtop). Like I said, if it doesn't turn out to be what it was described as, I will probrably end up with a regular LJ due to cost difference in relation to the axle/gear mods. As far as suspension goes, when purchasing a lift kit, comfort is one of the last few things you'd expect much of. I just want to know if a lifted LJ is stable rather than bouncy at highway speeds. This rig is overkill I will admit but with as much offroading I do and where I do it, 37's or 38's seems like a good choice.

If you don't mind me asking, what type of wheeling is there to do in georgia?

38's make logical sense for big rocks or deep mud. To me it sounds like they might be overkill for what you're trying to achieve.

Of course it comes down to the $$$. Not only in tires but axles as well (since you will break stock axles with 38's).

I'm not trying to sound rude, however I'm selling the FSJ and the Cummins since I'll be going to college this fall so money isn't really an issue with the modifications. Even with this though, I am looking for the most cost efficient way of building this rig up. As far as wheeling goes, its just like any other state... mudding, trails, etc. Me personally, I drive on dirt roads (which during the spring and summer, rain makes it thick mud) and water crossings, trails near my area and the GA Mountains, etc.
 

brennanriddle1

Adventurer
Well if the funds are there, build away :smiley_drive:


I'd start with a set of AT LEAST D44's. Possibly waggy, maybe converted JK set-up. (a lot of JK owners step up to D60's)

I would strongly suggest however that you go with 1-ton axles. You can pull 14 bolts from just about any junkyard for next to nothing. You may have to rebuild it but it'll still come out cheaper than any brand name complete axles.

For the front, you'll need a drivers drop, Ford or late model dodge are usually a good place to start looking. Again, need to be rebuilt/ shaved/ brackets re-done.

It depends on your mechanical skillz but if you want to do this on a budget, you'll have to do most of the labor yourself. How are you at welding?
 

computeruser

Explorer
OK, I don't get it - what in the hell does anybody need 38" tires and 6"+ of lift for on a backcountry expedition and exploration vehicle? Sounds more like the makings of a rockcrawler or mud toy to me.
 

brennanriddle1

Adventurer
OK, I don't get it - what in the hell does anybody need 38" tires and 6"+ of lift for on a backcountry expedition and exploration vehicle? Sounds more like the makings of a rockcrawler or mud toy to me.

That is sort of what i was hinting at earlier in post 11.

But you can't tell anyone how to raise their own baby. :coffee:
 
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