Need diagnosis

[Rhode Trip]

I have a '97 LX450 with 170,000 miles. Starter went, or so I thought. I had trouble starting it a few times but it ran fine once started. Had it towed to my mechanic, who replaced the starter. Same symptons, kind of a fast click, no start.
Cylinders are fine. He says he thinks the engine is binding. He is thinking timing chain or rod bearings or whatever. While these guys are very good with my Dodge Cummins, they don't know squat about cruisers.
Any suggestions where to start looking or what might be happening?
Thanks and happy 4th of July!

 

[AndrewP]

LOL--The old "engine binding" diagnosis. ****** is that? Clearly these guys do not know what they are doing and you should run now. Do not authorize a major repair, it doesn't need it.

Either the starter they put in is faulty, or there is an electrical fault in the ignition/starter circuit. Carefully clean your battery terminals in case there is a high resistance problem there. If that fails to restore reliable starts, start looking at the switch itself.

The starters on these do have contacts, that when they wear, give the click/no start issue. You should keep your old starter because the contacts are super simple to replace and then you have a spare starter.

If you can't trouble shoot this, go to an automotive electrical place. Every major city has one and generally they are wizards at tracking down these funky and intermittant electrical problems.

 

[dallen341]

check all your grounds and make sure they are good. Check each cable end too. Corrosion inside the cable end is not always so easy to see without pulling the cable for a closeup.

Is the battery in a full charge state? Have you had it checked? I had a battery that dropped a cell one day at lunch. Would read 12v with a meter but was not good for anything else (lights, starter, radio).

Good luck...

 

[gotmud]

Make sure all of your electrical contacts are secure and corrosion free. Put a voltmeter on your battery and note the voltage when you try to crank the starter. If the voltage stays the same when you turn the key to crank the engine over, you have a bad switch/solenoid. If it drops dramatically, you need to look at your battery (get it tested at any auto parts store) or have your "new" starter checked.

 

[UK4X4]

electrical !..................................no way engine

find another mechanic - he sucks

earths as per others

from the switch to the starter there's a solenoid - or relay in almost all cars

or battery as others mentioned

 

[MoGas]

Toyota starters rarely need to be replaced.

Usually it is just the contacts, they are very easily replaceable if you follow my step-by-step instructions.

I would also check the battery terminals for corrosion and if you find heavy corrosion, it has probably gone into the cable.

The solenoid click is a good indication that the starter is getting a signal to draw the solenoid in. To field troubleshoot this further, you can clip your jumper cable to the battery lug on the starter and put the other end to the positive post of the battery. Go try to crank the engine. If it goes, your cable is shot or loose.

I would hope that your shop would be competent enough to put an amp clamp on the positive cable to see if there is even a draw while trying to start. "Engine binding" would show as a big amperage spike in the hundreds. A bad connection, including potentially a bad cable would not show much of a draw.


Hope this helps,
Dave

 

[taco2go]

I agree with checking the battery/terminals as well- a dead battery caused similar "engine binding" in my truck as well. .
And my meter also showed 12v, like someone else mentioned.

 

[Hltoppr]

I concur...sounds electrical to me. I'm willing to bet you've got a bad battery cable. "Engine binding" sounds like total fantasy diagnosis....

-H-

 

[Hill Bill E.]

I concur...sounds electrical to me. I'm willing to bet you've got a bad battery cable. "Engine binding" sounds like total fantasy diagnosis....

-H-

Especially if it runs fine once started.:elkgrin:

When my 4Runner did the same thing, it was a bad ground. They get corroded.

 

[Skrewball]

fast click? mean lots of clicking?= battery voltage or connection problem.

just a single click when key is turned? = prob over tightened the pos battery post on the generic starter that they installed.

if they remove the original or toyota brand starter, get it from them and replace the contacts(as stated above, it is easy)

 

[kuroi]

Did they try turning the engine over by hand before they gave you that bad engine diagnosis? Agreed on the "find another shop" advice

 

[SoCal_80]

Check out (if you haven't done so already) ih8mud.com .....A ton of good cruiser info there!

 

[Skim]

Create a large electrical load (headlights on, radio on, wipers, etc.) then attempt to start it.

Try it again with no electrical load (all of that stuff OFF) anything different ?

This will help direct you into a electrical problem or mechanical.

Does your battery terminals / cables have corrosion ?

Be more specific on the clicking that you hear, fast rapid clicking or what ?

 

[freshspecbluegt]

Could also be the neutral safety switch. Do a search on IH8MUD lots of no start threads. Usually comes down to a bad connector on the starter or the neutral safety switch. New connectors and splices re available from toyota.

 

[Pskhaat]

Nice writeup there MoGas. Lots of pictures, make it look a little involved, but truly an easy job. These starters were designed to have wear parts and easy repair!