Just to confirm, the only cable connected to the battery side of the shunt, is the battery. The chargers and loads are all connected to the opposite side, correct?
Yessir! 1 connection on the battery end of the shunt and 3 connections on the Load/Charger side (Fuse box, IP67 charger, Renogy Rover MPPT). Once I get the DC/DC converter I will have 1 more connection on the Load/Charger side but I will be testing that out using the existing Rover cabling since that is easily hijacked with the PowerPoles I used at the Rover. Once tested it will get permanent install and then this thing will be DONE!
Ground wire on the shunt also?
So about that, my entire system is self contained and I have pretty much 0 steel to ground to. The frame under the camper body is aluminum, separated by 3/4" plywood all around, and everything wiring wise is isolated from the trailer light wiring (for now until I get the DC/DC converter).
I always run a grounding wire just because it doesn't hurt to do so.
What kind of amperage are you running through the battery leads?
I use one I bought from sears years ago. Was about $50. It has 2 amp, 12 amp, or 75 amp options. It's always worked. I've heard some of the new chargers are too smart for their own good, whatever that means.What is a good desktop/benchtop battery charger for Lead/Acid batteries that would not break the bank.
I've heard some of the new chargers are too smart for their own good, whatever that means.
It looks like this DC-DC charger is 100w greater than the controller's max. Would these two would work together without issue? Do I have to disconnect the panels when the truck is charging or vice versa disconnect the truck when the panels are charging?Using a DC-DC through your solar MPPT controller works fine. In some cases you may need to change how your MPPT sweeps/searches. That won't be an issue if the DC-DC output is the same or greater than the solar controllers max.