Need the solar/power pros to weigh in

TantoTrailers

Well-known member
I'll be damned that is cool as hell!! I think this would work sliding forward over the fronted slant part of the rig, my roof vent will be farther down so even fully open it should not interfere with that setup. That is awesome!! Passenger side and rear will be taken up by the 270* awning and the driver side will have the shower/changing tent awning so my only choice is forward, but that will definitely work! Thank you for the link.
 

luthj

Engineer In Residence
Since you are talking about cool trailer stuff, I saw these DC parking AC units. They have a 3k btu unit that only uses about 380W on full power. The roof mount units are also very slim, but there is also a split unit that can be mounted on the back of the camper/cab.

 

luthj

Engineer In Residence
Something to consider if you are going all-in. How about getting a composite box from Total Composites? Then just mount it on a trailer base. With that level of insulation heating and cooling is easy, and noise transmission is minimal.
 

TantoTrailers

Well-known member
Well that is something to consider but I get excited about wood! And not in the weird way! I have been surrounded by carpentry since my birth and I really like the cabin look and feel of it all....however it has its drawbacks such as moisture retention and fading when it gets wet. I won’t be building the trailer frame as I’m not a fabricator so that will be a special order from someone like Muddy River. The cabin needs to have all wiring running through the walls like I have now (through 3/4” ply!) so that it cannot be seen from anywhere...OCD checkbox.
 

luthj

Engineer In Residence
Speaking of wood, have you seen this build? Total Composites box, with great woodwork inside.

 

TantoTrailers

Well-known member
Well now, that looks awesome...kinda like a boat/house mix! That could be a very real possibility if they can keep the angular "Tanto" shape of my cabin, I definitely dont want a 6 sided box! Having that level of insulation is one thing, but the cleanliness of the trim and edges is very appealing! It took me a really long time and hours of swearing, re-doing, alcohol wiping, etc, to get all of my trim sealed up and looking like it was welded...

I'm also trying to figure out how to make it bigger once at camp, having standing room inside would be pretty amazing but it needs to fit in a garage with the roof rack and awning so I have been tossing ideas of a pop up somehow...still no idea how I would want it all to work but that might be a totally separate thread. Also, having popping parts means moving parts which may make it tougher to make it durable for a reasonable price so that I can take it off the beaten path most of the time. But I am thinking haha, have been since I "finished" the first one.
 

DRP

Member
OK, back to the solar experts. Ive read a bunch on combining different panels but I think I need to do so to maximize. One of my problems is that I am running out of room for charge controllers and switch/fuse space. And of course, we all run out of optimum space for panels.

I would like to series two 100 watt panels (38-40v combined) in parallel with one 200 watt panel (36-41v by itself) through one 100/30 Victron charge controller.

Dumb idea or will it fly?
 

dreadlocks

Well-known member
series em all if the specs on the panels fall within the max voltage of them all combined.. thats the only way its gonna work right.
 

luthj

Engineer In Residence
Going parallel like that can reduce efficiency by <10%. Partial shading has odd effects, so do a bit of testing.
 

DRP

Member
series em all if the specs on the panels fall within the max voltage of them all combined.. thats the only way its gonna work right.

But if one of the three panels gets shade won't the whole group be dead? Asking this because not all three will be on the same angle to the sun
 

dreadlocks

Well-known member
But if one of the three panels gets shade won't the whole group be dead? Asking this because not all three will be on the same angle to the sun

no, if one pannel gets shade the voltage of the whole string will drop, but its still well above what you need for a charge and it'll adapt.. Bypass diodes will cut a fully shaded panel out if it drags the input voltage under the output.
 

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